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Powermatic PM1000 - Thoughts on this new Hybrid

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Forum topic by paxorion posted 07-26-2013 03:16 PM 6654 views 1 time favorited 56 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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paxorion

724 posts in 731 days


07-26-2013 03:16 PM

I got an email from Popular Woodworking today announcing the upcoming Powermatic PM1000. From the limited info I could read about on their website, it looks like they took the a PM2000 and replaced the motor with a 1.75HP motor, possibly putting it in a similar position as the Sawstop 1.75 table saw. I’m curious to hear more thoughts from the LJ community.

-- paxorion


56 replies so far

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Rick M.

4122 posts in 1066 days


#1 posted 07-26-2013 03:46 PM

Unless I’m misreading it is not a hybrid, just a cabinet saw with a 115v motor.

-- |Statistics show that 100% of people bitten by a snake were close to it.|

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toolie

1768 posts in 1314 days


#2 posted 07-26-2013 04:29 PM

wow! what a great new product from powermatic! and it’s only a few hundred dollars more than a real cabinet saw! that gold colored paint must be pretty expensive.

http://www.tools-plus.com/powermatic-1791000k.html

http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-3-HP-220V-Cabinet-Left-Tilting-Table-Saw/G1023RL

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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NiteWalker

2710 posts in 1262 days


#3 posted 07-26-2013 06:17 PM

I’m pretty impressed. It’s 9in the running for my final table saw upgrade now, between that, the steel city 15950 and the 1.75HP sawstop.

toolie, I’d go for a grizzly if they had a cabinet saw with 1.75HP, or even a hybrid with cabinet mounted trunnions. There’s also the warranty difference, but still expensive for what it is.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

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Rick M.

4122 posts in 1066 days


#4 posted 07-26-2013 07:53 PM

Powermatics have always been more expensive. Some say they are worth it, I’ve never used one and have no comment but I would expect it to be better.

-- |Statistics show that 100% of people bitten by a snake were close to it.|

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crank49

3456 posts in 1656 days


#5 posted 07-26-2013 08:17 PM

Last PM I used was a 7 1/2hp, 3 phase, 480 volt, 12” green monster I purchased for the pattern shop back in 1979. It is still the standard against which I compare anything new. Nothing new comes close however.

Really depresses me the way we have forsaken quality in the pursuit of cheap.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

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HillbillyShooter

4758 posts in 978 days


#6 posted 07-26-2013 08:21 PM

Got the same from Powermatic. The only difference I see is the 1.75 hp motor which can be wired for 220v. Must be a brainchild of marketing. PM is more expensive than many brands and in my opinion is (or historically always has been) well worth the difference. My TS is a PM Model 66 that I bought in 1994. I checked it with a Wixey this past winter and it was dead on just as I adjusted it back in 1994, with the stops dead on at both 90 degrees and 45 degrees. My 8” jointer that I acquired in 1996 is like wise dead on and level the full 72 inches. Unless you’ve had an opportunity to use a PM versus other brands, it is almost impossible to convince someone that is a Grizzly fan of the difference.

-- John C. -- "Firearms are second only to the Constitution in importance; they are the peoples' liberty's teeth." George Washington

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Surfside

3278 posts in 859 days


#7 posted 07-26-2013 09:16 PM

I like the saw a lot. But don’t need it now and ….no cash.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

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Shawn Masterson

1262 posts in 634 days


#8 posted 07-26-2013 09:26 PM

The only thing I like about it is the DC. 2K for a 1.75 hp TS!!!! I would never spend that kind of money. I would go for the rigid if I wasn’t getting a 3 hp. furthermore if I was spending 2K on a ts the expense of adding 220 would just be a drop in the bucket. just my opinion

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knotscott

5512 posts in 2061 days


#9 posted 07-26-2013 09:35 PM

It looks like a scaled back PM2000. If it has the same guts as a PM2000, it’d be a heck of a saw. However @ $2K, it’s also a heck of an expensive saw for a 1-3/4hp Asian import. If I were considering this saw due to 110v restrictions, I’d give serious consideration to the Saw Stop PCS 1.75hp instead….for a few hundred bucks more, you get well proven well built saw that has a dramatic safety feature that the PM1000 doesn’t have. Or… I’d give serious consideration to paying to have 220v installed, and go with a Griz G1023RL or G0690.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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LenH

5 posts in 1331 days


#10 posted 07-26-2013 11:25 PM

First let me say I am a PM guy all the way. 66, Drill press, Jointer, Band Saw, and bench top Mortiser.

The new hybrid looked good to me until I read the specs. The impression is that since the saw will run on 110v the user can plug it into any outlet. Most guys I know have 20 amp outlets in their shop. The specs recommend a 30 amp circuit. So as I understand it 12ga wire is not heavy enough to carry 30 amps, so only switching out the breaker won’t get it. I don’t know about you guys but I don’t, and don’t know of anyone, who has 30 amp runs. 10ga wire? If you have to run a new feed you might as well make it a 220 circuit. The saw in question can be wired 110 or 220.

Hey you electricians – am I right or wrong?

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toolie

1768 posts in 1314 days


#11 posted 07-27-2013 12:18 AM

The saw in question can be wired 110 or 220.

and the motor ratings are 15A at 7.5A and 110v at 220v (according to PM’s web site). there seems to be a disconnect between the motor ratings and the recommended circuit size, 30A for 110v and 20A for 220v. assuming the motor rating is it’s FLA rating, the recommended wire size is overkill. yes, motor amperage spikes quite a bit at start up , but most circuit breakers are rated to accommodate that. i see no reason for the recommended circuit sizes. based on the motor ratings, that saw, configured for 220v, should operate on a 15A 220v circuit without incident (using 14 gauge wire) or, if configured for 110v operation, a 20A 110v circuit (using 12 gauge wire) should be sufficient.

when i had a 3 hp unisaw with an OEM dual voltage 3 hp baldor motor, it’s motor ratings were 32A at 110v and 16A at 220v. i ran it AND a delta 50-850 (drawing 6A at 220v) on a single 20A 220v circuit (12 gauge wire) without incident and never a tripped breaker.

i agree with a previous poster who suggested the marketing staff should probably contact the techies and get their information straight. but this is an issue that would probably never occur to PM’s target market (that target market probably doesn’t even know where their electrical panel(s) is/are).

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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Buckethead

1930 posts in 554 days


#12 posted 07-27-2013 12:22 AM

Len, you sound right to me. Looking in my breaker box reveals many 15’s and 20’s, but nary a 30.

So knowing the market, the electrical contractor is not over wiring in case a woodworking enthusiast buys a house.

-- Bucket, any person that spends 10k on a bicycle is guaranteed to be a $@I almost started to like you. -bhog

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Rick M.

4122 posts in 1066 days


#13 posted 07-27-2013 04:35 AM

A little light on details but some nice features.

-- |Statistics show that 100% of people bitten by a snake were close to it.|

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Luke

539 posts in 1979 days


#14 posted 08-01-2013 12:24 AM

Does it have a quick release riving knife? I can’t find that info anywhere and haven’t broken down to calling PM Tech yet. If it has that I may be sold! It’s a nice looking saw with a lot of features at a great price. I worry that it may be a little weak as I’m used to using a 3HP 220 but I never need that much power anyways. Even if it’s not a quick release riving knife I’m okay. That is just the clincher for me.

-- LAS, http://www.abettersign.com

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castlerockwood

9 posts in 415 days


#15 posted 09-01-2013 12:32 AM

Great feedback from everyone on this machine. I will say I am seriously considering upgrading my Rigid saw to this machine. I have researched most of the saws on the market that are mentioned in the articles above. While $2k is a big price tag for a 1 3/4 horse machine, it is a PM. I can clearly see the difference in the machines when you look close at the ads/marketing, and the reviews on You Tube. Now of course the Rockler and
Woodcraft guys only want you to buy a Saw Stop. And talk about price…The 1 3/4 contactor saw is about the same price as the pm 1000 when you add the cast iron wings. And it’s a contractor saw. NO SAW STOP FOR ME. I will say the Grizzly saws are the best value out there, and hard to beat on value. However, I have had to learn the hard way that you usually get what you pay for. My first saw a couple of years ago was the Porter Cable portable contractor saw. It’s ok for on the job and to move around, but it’s not a great saw for furniture or quality cuts on hardwood. I then moved up to the RIGID 4512 because of a great sale at HD. Again, an improvement over the inexpesnive PC, but it is difficult to get good square cuts due to a weak fence system. SO…..my next saw will be my last for some time (I hope). I am going to look for quality/reputation first and price second. I believe it will now be between the Grizzly 3hp or the PM 1000. And remember everyone, the PM 1000 is a much smaller saw. The foot print is exactly the same as my rigid. The PM1000 weighs 350LBS, the PM2000 weighs 550 lbs. Good feedback everyone. I will post when I move to my Grizz or PM.

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