|Forum topic by Charlie||posted 07-25-2013 01:26 PM||2673 views||0 times favorited||8 replies|
07-25-2013 01:26 PM
When we redid our kitchen last year we included an island, 8 feet long and about 3 and a half feet wide made of walnut. I used Waterlox (original, not satin) as the finish.
Because of the layout, we had to trim off a corner. Think of going about a foot from the corner (down one side and across the end) and then cutting along the line. It’s not quite a 45 degree angle and it has to match the way the cabinets are set up in that corner.
Anyways…. when I first cut the corner it was assuming the cabinets would be set a certain way. Installing the cabinets, it was necessary for me to shift one a few inches away from the corner. So the angle on the counter top didn’t match. It’s bee bugging me AND my wife, so as long as we were taking the island out to redo the FLOOR (don’t get me started on that one) I figured now is a good time to recut the corner.
Island top out to the shop, corner cut, hand sanded the small radius on the edges and “new” corners. THEN it was time to see how Waterlox works in terms of repairability. Before any cutting was done I cleaned the top thoroughly to remove any traces of cooking oil or grease. Our cooktop is set into the island. I actually cleaned it with vinegar water, tehn wiped the entire top down with mineral spirits, and dried it with paper towels. I didn’t let the MS sit on it. Just wiped it down good and then dried it off. The Waterlox came through all of this looking wonderful! MS is the solvent for Waterlox, but it stands up to it very well when the finish is a year old apparently.
The original finish was applied with a lambs wool pad as though I was doing a floor. Flood coat. It went on heavy. If you brush it on or wipe it on, it would take many coats to equal one coat applied with the lambs wool pad. For this repair to the end grain, I used a brush and applied the Waterlox as heavily as that brush would allow. I mean, brush held almost vertical, heavily loaded with finish, one swipe across the end grain and then clean up the drips with the brush and watch for any runs.
You invariably get finish on the top of the counter top where you really don’t need to apply more finish, but want to blend the old with the new. For the first few coats, I dried the brush some on a paper towel and then very lightly swept the end of the counter top TOWARD the wet finish to remove what appeared to be a small “ridge” of finish right at the radius on the top.
For the last coat I took a pad with waterlox on it and went almost a foot onto the top of the counter top and feathered the end (new finish) into the top (old finish). As I’m writing this, the “last coat” was done 3 hours ago. I just went out and checked it and there are absolutely no lap marks. The new finish MAY have an ever so slightly higher sheen, but the difference (if any really exists) is so small as to be invisible. I got down at every angle I could come up with looking at this and I can’t find where the new finish ends and the old finish starts. And I just did it 3 hours ago so I have a real good idea where I would expect to see a difference. I had expected, going into this, that I would have to wipe the entire top to get an invisible repair. Right now it doesn’t look like that’s going to be necessary.
All in all I’m calling this a successful repair and moving on to other things. It will spend 24 hours curing in the shop and then get “babied” for another few days keeping any heavy grease or spills off it, but it may get reinstalled tomorrow night.
OH! I had 2 cans of Waterlox. One that I opened last year when we did this originally and one never opened. I had expected the one from last year to be gelled and not usable. To my surprise, that was not the case. I squeezed the can last year when I closed it, but there was still quite a bit of air space. I breathed into the can, capped it and then screwed the lid on. I didn’t need to open the “fresh” can. So that was also a pleasant surprise.