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Material Recommendations for workshop cabinet countertops

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Forum topic by GerardW posted 368 days ago 898 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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GerardW

35 posts in 421 days


368 days ago

Hey! So I purchased some used kitchen cabinets to add into my garage workshop, which has already been a great boon for my organization/sanity. They aren’t intended to be my primary workspace for woodworking- I have an assembly table and a workbench, but they will be used for storage, tinkering, setting glue ups, etc. I’m also planning to build a spot for my mitre saw to be recessed a bit between two of the cabinets so that they can serve as workpiece support, and maybe even eventually have a t-track for stops in there.

The big question I have is what material should I shoot for to create a nice working surface, that’s still affordable? My first thought was to do 3/4 MDF laminated to 1 1/2” and edged with hardwood, but that’s just because that’s the same material on my assembly table. Any other suggestions? Is the double lamination overkill? Should I just go with a nice single layer of plywood? Or mixing materials somehow to give me the best bang for my buck?

Thanks for any input you have! Pics below of the cabinets to give you an idea (organization is a mess because I had to pull everything out to hang the cabinets. As a bit of a side note, gloat that all 15 cabinets came to me for just $275 bucks!)

-- Gerard in Bowie MD


10 replies so far

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

4746 posts in 1175 days


#1 posted 367 days ago

http://annapolis.craigslist.org/zip/3888738680.html

Maybe still available, good luck now.
HTH

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

3831 posts in 926 days


#2 posted 367 days ago

I also have recycled kitchen cabs in my shop for storage and organizaton.

I used 1” birch plywood for the coutner tops and then put a strip of 1/2” thick maple as edge banding, and a painted pine 1×4 as a “back splash” to cover the gaps at the back.

Rock solid top….. I stained and coated the top with poly and it’s holding up very well.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

4842 posts in 1396 days


#3 posted 367 days ago

I’ve used birch plywood for bench/ shop countertops for years, either single or double 3/4” depending on the use but my real suggestion is for finish. I apply about four coats of varna thane water based diamond coat. It is really durable, glue chips off the surface without leaving residue and it looks good. Every year or two I just sand them down a layer or two and recoat. They will look like new for years.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

2439 posts in 949 days


#4 posted 367 days ago

Double layer of MDF topped w/ formica makes a great surface and fairly cheap.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10557 posts in 1288 days


#5 posted 367 days ago

White Formica is my favorite. Glue won’t stick and it makes a great surface to make pencil notes and drawings. Pencil marks are easily erased or just wipe off with alcohol.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2704 posts in 1175 days


#6 posted 367 days ago

+1 on white formica.
A big advantage is the light it reflects. Keeps the work area nice and bright.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View NormG's profile

NormG

3987 posts in 1602 days


#7 posted 367 days ago

White Formica board again

-- Norman

View distrbd's profile

distrbd

999 posts in 1044 days


#8 posted 367 days ago

A member from another woodworking site used 2×4s ,about 20 of them all cut to 6’ long,jointed on the narrow sides(2” side) and face glued them so you would have a table top about 30” wide 6’ long and 3.5” thick,very solid ,he later on added a removeable top out of hardboard (arborite) so if it got damaged it could easily be replaced,not a bad idea if you ask me.

-- Ken from Ontario

View GerardW's profile

GerardW

35 posts in 421 days


#9 posted 355 days ago

Thanks for all the replies! In the end I went with melamine coated particleboard. It was cheap (though incredibly heavy) and available at my local store. Plus it came in 49×97 sheets which meant I only needed one. Also edged with hard maple so it will hold up a bit better!

-- Gerard in Bowie MD

View Handtooler's profile

Handtooler

1054 posts in 730 days


#10 posted 355 days ago

Nice! You’ll certainly enjoy that. Being whits I REALLY like the light reflrction that it emits, as I am blind in my left eye so depth preception and paralax can present a problem sometime for me.

-- Russell Pitner Hixson, TN 37343 bassboy40@msn.com

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