French Cleats ? any secrets to share ?

Hi Dan,

3/4” stock works well for French cleats. More often then not people generally cut them with a 45 degree bevel as that would be seemingly be the most logical thing to do. However, by using a 60 degree/30 degree combination you will create more surface area for your cleats to interact and create a stronger tighter fit. There will be less tendancy for the wall cabinet to pull away from the wall then compared to using a 45 degree bevel. Also, the higher the cleat is on the piece the more area below the cleat that will rest against the wall for a more secure hold.

-- Brian, Folsom, CA http://www.brianfullerdesigns.com

Dan, I generally use 5” strips of 3/4 plywood beveled at 45 degrees for my cleats. In some cases where I have been concerned about the weight I have put another cleat inside the cabinet as well. That way I can put screws in both directions and do not have to rely solely on the cabinet backing, which is usually 1/4” stock, to hold them up. As far as the wall cleats go I have used both lag screws and 3” wood screws to anchor them to the wall. I have not had a problem either way but I am more comfortable with lag screws and this is the direction I now go.l

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

Dan: There is a french cleat router bit that is being sold by many internet sites. They look like they maybe 3/8” in size.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

thanks for the responses. Wondering how well 1/4 plywood may work ? anyone ever try that material ?

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1/4 inch ply is to thin and will not stay on the wall for very long when it is under weight.

-- Roper - Master of sawdust-

Are there prefabricate cleats with a thinner interface available ? maybe made from metal or composite ?

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Dan you could go the route of metal z-clips much thinner then wood but 1/4” ply is not sufficient enough.

-- Brian, Folsom, CA http://www.brianfullerdesigns.com

Dan,
There was a big article on french cleats in this month’s FWW.

Z-Clips from Lee Valley are your solution for thinness

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

Great idea, Doug!

My wife makes giant collages, and the LV material is just about perfect.

In the past, I’ve had to create built-up moldings to cover a 3/4” french cleat. I had also tried “finger” hangers, but alignment and be a PITA.

-- - Please help keep Lumberjocks an enjoyable escape by refusing to participate in political discussions. Simply choose to ignore the thread...

I am planning on making another DVD shelf for my daughter’s room. I’m thinking of just incorporating the french cleat system into the back of the shelf. hopefully there won’t be any issues!

-- www.darrylmasterson.com ~ www.darrylmasterson.etsy.com

Hi Dan:

I’ve hung both of my wall hanging shop cabinets using French cleats. After reading about them in one book or another, it sounded like a solid and very stable method and to date, has proven to be just that. The method is straight forward and the angle used can be anything between 25º and 45º. Common sense dictates that a flatter, straighter wall will more readily accept angles closer to 45º. For those working with textured walls or surfaces that are not 100% square to each other, an angle closer to 25º will allow a more forgiving fit. In those cases it’s best to shim gaps in order to evenly distribute the stress load. The only thing you MUST remember is that the wall gets the cleat with the angle sloping away from you. “Duh!...” (don’t ask)

Cheers and happy hanging.

-- JMP

I have used french cleats for wall cabinets in my shop, they work great, and hold a lot of weight,the wall cleat is very easy to level,( easier than leveling a cabinet) make the cleat on the cabinet part of the back, the wall cleat should be 1/4” to 1/2” shorter than the one on the cabinet, I have lifted an 8ft cabinet up onto the wall by myself, just place cabinet next to wall on top of horses or counter top, slide it up the wall into place just above wall cleat, then lower it into cleat, then if you want to increase security, add screws or lags. I have used 3/4” plywood and hardwood both, 1/4 or 3/8 could be used on a small enough project.
I have only used 45degrees, but I will try the 60/30 next time.

-- Smitty!!!

another note on the french cleats, they hold a cabinet flatter against the wall than any other method I have tried, works great for wall clocks.

-- Smitty!!!

I went to overkill. I made some cabinets for my shop, and I hung them on 2×4 frensh cleats.

I almost exclusively use french cleats foe all wall cabinets I build They make installing a long run of cabinets easier.
You can make one cleat whatever the length of all the wall cabinets minus an 1” and then notch all the backs. Level one cleat hang a bunch of cabinets.

Chris