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Which Way to Laminate for My Workbench?

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Forum topic by Eric posted 387 days ago 291 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Eric

784 posts in 677 days


387 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: japanese workbench

Hey all,

I’m building (ha, not much building involved) a Japanese-style workbench, which basically involves a slab of wood that sits atop a couple trestle-style sawhorses. I was hoping to have my top made from a single slab of wood that is 4” thick, 10” (or more) wide, and 5’ long. Unfortunately, the lumber yard won’t sell me a 5’ slab – I’d have to take a full 10’, which I can’t really justify right now.

So what should I do – laminate two 4×5s (or 4×6s) end-to-end, or laminate two 2×10s (or 2×12s) face-to-face?

It seems like stacking two thinner boards would be stronger overall, and less apt to fail. But just looking for your opinions. If enough Jocks give their two cents’ worth, I can buy a coke!

-- Eric at http://adventuresinwoodworking.com

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Loren

347 posts in 542 days


387 days ago

I would go with the 4×6 method. It’s a little hard to explain
why quickly. I think the 2×10s might move more out of flat and
perhaps de-laminate over time.

-- Would you like to recession-proof your present business using the internet? - my revealing 9-page free report gives you the straight facts: http://copymatch.com/rec/cap.html

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Dorje

1767 posts in 891 days


387 days ago

I’d glue edge to edge too. Also, try to pick boards that are as close to quartersawn as possible. This will be easier to do with the narrower stock.

What kind of wood will you be using?

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

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Eric

784 posts in 677 days


386 days ago

Wow, I was surprised to see two votes for edge gluing! I’m glad I posted this. Thanks for the feedback, guys!

Oh, and Dorje, I will likely be using kapur or light red meranti. Nothing special about the qualities of those two kinds – it’s just that that’s what’s most abundant here.

-- Eric at http://adventuresinwoodworking.com

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