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Best way to cut a 18" long bevel?

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Forum topic by lateralus819 posted 07-20-2013 01:57 AM 987 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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lateralus819

1479 posts in 579 days


07-20-2013 01:57 AM

I’m going to be starting a TV stand hopefully soon, one aspect has me thinking.

I designed this, and i would like to add the top “shelf” above the drawers for misc items such as the tv receiver. Since my chop saw only does a max width of 14” and i don’t have access to a table saw at home (I have one i can use at work, but i DOUBT its accurate enough to do this)

How would you do it? Its 18” wide. I was thinking of ripping a board a little wider, with the appropriate angles, insetting some strong magnets and using it as a guide for a pull saw. Would this give me the accuracy i need?

-- Never confuse mistakes with failure. Kevin


16 replies so far

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JustJoe

1554 posts in 728 days


#1 posted 07-20-2013 02:07 AM

If the tablesaw at work has a tilting arbor, there is no reason it’s not accurate enough to cut a bevel.

-- This Ad Space For Sale! Your Ad Here! Reach a targeted audience! Affordable Rates, easy financing! Contact an ad represenative today at JustJoe's Advertising Consortium.

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lateralus819

1479 posts in 579 days


#2 posted 07-20-2013 02:12 AM

It does tilt, but cross cutting a piece 4’ long riding against the fence bearing on 18” of surface seems scary.

-- Never confuse mistakes with failure. Kevin

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tomd

1771 posts in 2460 days


#3 posted 07-20-2013 02:21 AM

Use a miter gauge to guide the cut not the fence or use a cross cut sled if available.

-- Tom D

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jte9999

25 posts in 792 days


#4 posted 07-20-2013 02:22 AM

A straight edge clamped to the piece guiding the sole plate on a circlular saw with the appropriate bevel set might work unless I’m not understanding what you are doing.

—jay KCMO

-- --half full, half empty? How about twice as big as it needs to be?

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Loren

7739 posts in 2338 days


#5 posted 07-20-2013 02:23 AM

That’s a cut you can make if the fence is set up
parallel. However, if the work isn’t bearing flat
against the table, there will be variations in the
bevel. This is a tricky cut if you need precision.

One good way to do it is with a router. Rough
cut the board 1/8” overlong and fasten a template
to the bottom. You can make a template for the
whole shape if you like. Rout it square with a
flush trim bit, then rout the bevel with a 45
degree bit with a bearing.

As an aside, the way to cut a long end bevel most
accurately on the table saw is with the work
held sticking up in the air, attached to a jig
riding on the fence. Some box makers who
cut mitered corners make special jigs that
allow the blade to be left at 90 degrees and
cut the miters to match perfectly with the jig.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

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firefighterontheside

4899 posts in 546 days


#6 posted 07-20-2013 02:26 AM

I may not be picturing exactly what you’re doing, but my thoughts are router or using the chopsaw and doing it in two cuts, one from each side assuming that the saw will tilt the direction needed once the piece is turned around.

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.

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Loren

7739 posts in 2338 days


#7 posted 07-20-2013 02:38 AM

If you’ll be using plywood, the ends may be cut square and
edgebanded with 1/4” thick solid wood. The appearance
from the end of the case will not be ugly.

Then, the front board can be edgebanded too, but mitered
so it looks from the front like a fancy mitered case.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

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AlaskaGuy

716 posts in 999 days


#8 posted 07-20-2013 03:41 AM

Never mind.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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lateralus819

1479 posts in 579 days


#9 posted 07-20-2013 12:41 PM

Heres a closer pic, where a and b meet at a 40 degree angle it looks like on the protracter.

-- Never confuse mistakes with failure. Kevin

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Derek Cohen

180 posts in 2658 days


#10 posted 07-20-2013 03:36 PM

Since only the front edge will show, just apply a bevelled edge to whatever method of jointing you wish.

Regards from Perth

Derek

-- Buildiing furniture, and reviewing and building tools at http://www.inthewoodshop.com

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gfadvm

11242 posts in 1380 days


#11 posted 07-21-2013 12:42 AM

This appears to be a crosscut bevel and not a rip. So you should be able to tilt your tablesaw blade to the appropriate angle and do this with a sled or extended fence on your miter gauge.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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lateralus819

1479 posts in 579 days


#12 posted 07-21-2013 01:15 AM

Maybe i can clamp a 2×4 to the miter gauge for added support.

-- Never confuse mistakes with failure. Kevin

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gfadvm

11242 posts in 1380 days


#13 posted 07-21-2013 02:03 AM

Most miter gauges have a couple of holes so you can screw an auxillary fence to them. Just make sure the board used for the aux fence is straight and flat.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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cutmantom

288 posts in 1725 days


#14 posted 07-21-2013 02:09 AM

at 18 inches wide is this plywood or a glueup, if plywood just butt joint it then miter the edging

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lumberjoe

2842 posts in 938 days


#15 posted 07-21-2013 02:16 AM

This

you have a few options:

1- Leave a lip at the bottom of the bevel to ride the bearing on (which would look really nice I think)
2 – attach fence at the end of the bevel to ride the bearing on
3 – Set your router table fence correctly and don’t worry about the bearing

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

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