|Forum topic by DavidNJ||posted 405 days ago||4095 views||0 times favorited||7 replies|
405 days ago
My hand has been forced…two 25 year old cheap kd bookcases collapsed in the basement.
I was thinking of just using the Arauco pine plywood, 23/32nds, from HD. Is sanded 220 on one-side, 150 on the other, generally looks good, and has a waterproof glue. From Chile, it has generally good reviews. At $35/sheet, it is 30% cheaper than Birch/Oak/Maple and seems to be a bit flatter.
I was going to use Kreg pocket holes for joinery. However, I noticed that the Kreg plans for a bookcase used a full 3/4” plywood piece for the back. I was thinking of using 1/8” plywood or hardboard. In the Kreg design, the back is a full structural member.
Would 3 strips, 2” to 4” tall (10” total) be enough lateral stability or is the full 78” tall back a better idea?
Cost isn’t that much different since each 4×8 sheet used for the back would also generate 4 shelves. 3 78” tall, 32” wide bookcases with 3 fixed and 4 adjustable shelves would require 5 4×8 sheets with 2 boards yielding 6 sides and 8 shelves and 3 boards yielding 3 backs and 12 or 15 shelves. Using a 1/4” plywood or 1/8” hardboard for the back would require 2 boards for 6 sides and 8 shelves, 1 board for 12 shelves, and 3 thinner boards for the back.
The all 3/4” using pine is only about $20 more. I’m not sure there is a reason to use a hardwood for bookcases in an unfinished basement otherwise divided between storage, a gym, a woodworking shop, golf club assembly area, etc.