Beveling with table saw (equal widths)

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Forum topic by Johnpainter posted 07-19-2013 08:46 AM 1238 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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3 posts in 1191 days

07-19-2013 08:46 AM

Hello everyone, I have a question that seems simple enough but I I can’t seem to catch on to it.

I have a small table saw and am trying to bevel lengths of 1x material such that the widths of the two resulting pieces after having been ripped is equal.

The angular measure of the bevel is largely inconsequential, so long as it is equal on both pieces (which it should be regardless I would assume) Is there a formula or rule for how the bevel affects an attempt to split the wood evenly.

(I.e) if I have a board that measure 3” wide and I want to rip it into two pieces each 1.5” wide at widest and both beveled 15 degrees how do I figure out, at what measurement to set the rip fence?

Is there an applicable formula useful for other board dimensions and/or angles?

Thank you..

(I am building stretcher bars for oversized painting canvases)

9 replies so far

View LakeLover's profile


283 posts in 1357 days

#1 posted 07-19-2013 11:00 AM

Mark the end of the board ( edge) in half, length and width. Then set your fence so the blade splits this mark.

Try a test cut or 2. Should be good for a canvas stretcher,

View bondogaposis's profile


3969 posts in 1769 days

#2 posted 07-19-2013 12:49 PM

Yes, find the center of the end of your board and line that up w/ the center of your blade. It is going to take some trial and error on some scrap to get it precise.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View Buckethead's profile


3140 posts in 1286 days

#3 posted 07-19-2013 12:57 PM

I would mark the center of the of the profile (end) of the board. Set your table saw’s bevel to the desired degree, and use the fence to eyeball and set the blade to where it intersects the mark you made.

If one piece comes out slightly larger than the other, check to see which which was on the fence side of the blade. If the smaller cut was on the fence side, just run the larger through again to match. If the larger was on the fence side, reset the fence to match the smaller, then run the larger through. Double check when your done.

If you are running multiples, do the above with a different take. Assuming your stock is uniform, run about an inch through. Cut it off, and check for equal. (You could measure, but I find that butting them together reduces headache.) Adjust as necessary. Check again… You should be able to zero in within a try or two. This will save multiple passes if you’re doing a larger quantity of cuts.

Using math is nice, but fitting by gauging seems to work more efficiently for me.

-- Support woodworking hand models. Buy me a sawstop.

View Buckethead's profile


3140 posts in 1286 days

#4 posted 07-19-2013 01:06 PM

Also… I see only one post… Perhaps your experience with a table saw is limited.

Have a friend who is more experienced help.

Artists need fingers. I make stretchers for an artist friend at no charge. Some one will help.

If there is no one… Read up on techniques and safety PRIOR to getting within sneezing distance of the table saw.

Your fingers will be close to the blade if you don’t use a proper push stick. Even those can be dangerous. Please YouTube some instructional video.

-- Support woodworking hand models. Buy me a sawstop.

View Loren's profile


8158 posts in 3065 days

#5 posted 07-19-2013 04:42 PM

Use hold-downs (featherboards) to keep the wood flat on
the saw table. If it rides up even a little due to a bump in
the wood or a user error, the width will go off and the
beveled parts won’t match.

In terms of ripping long 3” wide piece of pine 1×3,
they aren’t going to be straight so the edge won’t
run consistently against the fence. You can use
featherboards (this time to force the wood snug
against the fence) to try to press out the irregularities.

Still, the parts won’t all be the same width all the
way, but you’ll get closer using featherboards.

In terms of the math, make a cross mark bisecting
the end of a board halfway through it’s thickness
and the other mark bisecting the width. The
center of the saw tooth at 3/8” high should
hit the center of the cross when you set up the

View MrRon's profile


3891 posts in 2661 days

#6 posted 07-19-2013 08:17 PM

By “splitting the board evenly”, you are cutting a 45° bevel. The angle is not inconsequential. If you cut the board 40°, the other piece will be 50°; not equal at all.

View Johnpainter's profile


3 posts in 1191 days

#7 posted 07-19-2013 08:50 PM

Thank you all very much for the advice. This is a great place. I will work through the trial and error as suggested (then keep a record for future reference).

Buckethead – Thank you for the concern. The image of finger meeting blade is not pretty!

View Johnpainter's profile


3 posts in 1191 days

#8 posted 07-19-2013 08:52 PM

Also researching featherboards. Thanks!

View Buckethead's profile


3140 posts in 1286 days

#9 posted 07-21-2013 09:40 PM

Mr Ron, I think you’re letting math fool you. If I rip (or miter) a board at any angle the cutoff will be the same angle.

There are two angles on each board. The point, and the heel. If I angle the saw to cut 40°, (for instance) the angle at the point will measure 40°. The angle at the heel will measure 50°. Added together the sum is 90°.

-- Support woodworking hand models. Buy me a sawstop.

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