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Wood type that wont charr easilty

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Forum topic by Fredrick posted 07-19-2013 08:46 AM 828 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Fredrick

5 posts in 425 days


07-19-2013 08:46 AM

Hi!

I’m planning a christmas-present for my parents, and I need some help picking out the right wood for the job. It’s supposed to be a plate that holds hot stone coming from the oven at about 250 degrees celsius. Thats 480 in fahrenheit. The temparature will decline as the stone is cooled by the air, but it will stay there until cooled down.

Is there any type of wood that can stand this heat without being charred within a few uses? I read maple is supposed to stand heat well, but as its so light, it probably will show charring very easily? Other preferred characteristics:

- Easy to buy, not too expensive
- Color and texture that you want to serve food on

As a follow up question, how would you treat this wood? Beside the stone plate, I want to serve sauce in some dips in the plate. I need some matte treatment so the wood doesnt absorb the sauce.

Thanks for any help :)


12 replies so far

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

10817 posts in 1658 days


#1 posted 07-19-2013 01:01 PM

Teak, maybe Ipe. Ive got no real clue here but im thinking that the hardest woods with dark coloring would be best.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

View bold1's profile

bold1

104 posts in 499 days


#2 posted 07-20-2013 08:44 PM

I know that the rub guide for a sawmill blade was apple if it could be gotten. If it can take the constant friction without char, I would Think it would take this, BUT, I don’t know this.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10854 posts in 1342 days


#3 posted 07-21-2013 01:30 AM

Ipe is considered fireproof.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Whiskers's profile

Whiskers

389 posts in 679 days


#4 posted 07-21-2013 03:12 AM

I have seen these type of things as projects many times before, I’m not a girl so I’m not sure what they called exactly, trivet, tribble, trivat, something like that maybe, but usually what people do is get a piece of ceramic tile the size you want, 12” common, and inlay it into the the thing. Helps solve both your problems. You can use more than one tile and lay it so to speak with grout in the inlay as well, I’ve seen some pretty elaborate patterns done with small bath squares. Since your talking about a stone from the oven, your probably going to have to do more than one tile cause it sounds like a pizza stone which is bigger than 12”, there are 16” tiles though, guess it depends on how big your stone is.

View Fredrick's profile

Fredrick

5 posts in 425 days


#5 posted 07-21-2013 05:18 PM

Thanks alot for all the answers, really appreciated.

Think I’m gonna do some testing for this project, getting some different stones and different wood types to see what works best. Will definately update back with some info :)

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3447 posts in 2612 days


#6 posted 07-21-2013 06:24 PM

480 degrees? Wow! I don’t know any wood that will hold up to that. Sounds more like makin’ horseshoes.
Gotta be some sort of ceramic, or better yet, why not use a second stone as an insulator?
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View mporter's profile

mporter

234 posts in 1230 days


#7 posted 07-21-2013 06:40 PM

It depends on how long it takes the stone to cool. At 250 degrees celsius, it takes red oak 4.7 min to ignite. The best tested was western larch which took 9.7 min.
Hard maple that was exposed to temps of just 107 degees celsius show darkening in three years. 150 degrees made them look like charcoal in three years. hope this helps.

View Fredrick's profile

Fredrick

5 posts in 425 days


#8 posted 07-23-2013 03:11 PM

I’m definately going to do some testing. Seems Ipe can be hard to get here in Norway, at least for cheap in the thickness I want. It should be at least 3cm deep, width and length is not really important as I’ll cut it down to about 20×30cm.

Beech is easily purchased for a very low cost (Ikea sells them as bench for the kitchen). I’ve got some in the basement to test, but need some more equipment first. It is also considered to be a very hard wood as far as I can find, cant find any data about how it handles heat.

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Fredrick

5 posts in 425 days


#9 posted 09-14-2013 10:30 PM

Allright! Finally was able to do some testing today, got the stone nice and hot (250c/480f), put it in there (its a nice tight fit), and it didnt charr too bad. Actually i kind of like the charring, gives it personality.

The problem is not the charring, its splitting of the wood. The wood is this one: http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/60123668/ and between the “seams” (sorry, dont know english word) it splits up. Any idea how to counter that? Maybe i just have to face fact and have something as a spacer between the hot stone and the wood.

View natenaaron's profile

natenaaron

369 posts in 449 days


#10 posted 09-14-2013 11:44 PM

You have my curiosity up. Are you cooking the meat on the hot stone?

View Tim's profile

Tim

1267 posts in 613 days


#11 posted 09-15-2013 12:18 AM

Yes spacers would work. Lots of things could be used, glass, ceramic, etc. Glass would have the advantage of not showing much and you could use little glass decorative stones. But for this you probably want to hold the heat in the stone as much as possible and I can’t really think of a good food safe insulator to suggest.

View Fredrick's profile

Fredrick

5 posts in 425 days


#12 posted 09-15-2013 08:43 AM

@natenaaron: Yes, that is what im doing. Will make 6 of these for my in laws and 6 for my parents.

@Tim: Glass stones is a good idea! Just have to make sure i find some that wont crack. Too bad i really cant test much without using the gift i’m gonna give away. Do you think these crack?

EDIT: Think those pebbles are probably going to crack. Found another solution, just buying a couple of mosaic tiles like this one:

Having 4-6 of those under the stone should insulate fairly well. Just hope it is enough.

2nd EDIT: Can i just glue the wood back together? Try to get the wood glue in the cracks and clamp it hard together?

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