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Anyone Have Experience with This Rust Remover ? EvapoRust.

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Forum topic by RonInOhio posted 07-17-2013 06:34 PM 1202 views 1 time favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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RonInOhio

720 posts in 1559 days


07-17-2013 06:34 PM

Many of the reviews are so positive on Amazon, I’m a bit skeptical as to whether or
not they are legit.

Anyway, I have a utility trailer that I’m trying to recondition. Replacing the floor.Will probably
finish wood with marine grade spar. I’m going to use PT 2×12s.

Pulled up the old rotted plywood flooring last night and see, the frame and undercarriage
needs some TLC.

I don’t have a compressor so I likely will be using a grinder with pig-tailed wire brushes to
remove rust. I also purchased a quart of EvapoRust to try. Its biodegradable and non-toxic.

Cost around 9 dollars a quart and about 24 dollars a gallon.

I’ve done some research and Por-15 is sort of a rust sealer,transforming agent . Its top-of-the-line
and the price reflects that. 40 dollars a quart and 160 dollars a gallon !

Heck, I could easily spend enough to buy a new trailer if I don’t watch myself. The wood will cost north of a hundred.
Then there is primer and paint and hardware to still consider.

So back to the question. I was wondering if anyone has experience with EvapoRust and your thoughts. It may not be as effective on a trailer frame because obviously you cannot submerge the frame in a vat for 12 hours like you can with small hand tools and such. What about Rustoleum Professional or Rustoleum Rust Stop primer. Any opinions on those products ?

Sorry for the long winded post. Thanks in advance.


22 replies so far

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

11183 posts in 1701 days


#1 posted 07-17-2013 06:37 PM

Evaporust tends to work best when the rusty item is submerged in it for around 24 hours. Ive tried, unsuccessfully, to wrap evaporust soaked papertowels around a rusty item but the stuff evaporated and left me in a worse spot with paper towels adhered to a saw plate.

I think your best bet would be sand blasting.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

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reggiek

2240 posts in 1965 days


#2 posted 07-17-2013 06:40 PM

There is a review by hjt here I believe http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/3477

-- Woodworking.....My small slice of heaven!

View JustJoe's profile

JustJoe

1554 posts in 733 days


#3 posted 07-17-2013 06:53 PM

I use it on small stuff and it works. You can use it on a trailer but you’ll have to wrap it in saran wrap to keep it from evaporating. There are better things out there for trailer frames – go to your auto parts store and look in the spray paint section, Rustoleum makes a few items that you spray on and it neutralizes the rust and then you can paint over it. There are some wipe-on types also but I don’t remember who makes them. You put it on with a brush and it turns the rust black and stops the oxidation process. That way you only need to wire-brush the loose stuff or cut out/patch anyplace that is rusted through.

-- This Ad Space For Sale! Your Ad Here! Reach a targeted audience! Affordable Rates, easy financing! Contact an ad represenative today at JustJoe's Advertising Consortium.

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PurpLev

8476 posts in 2343 days


#4 posted 07-17-2013 06:53 PM

great product when used correctly.

you really have to keep the part to be cleaned submerged in it – or have a wet rag/towel wrapped around it – and around that a plastic sheet to keep it from evaporating – the setup gotta stay wet!

was able to clean tools, plates, and even a rusted out car door in-situ with it very successfully. a quart is only good for small stuff. for anything larger – I would either wrap in wet (with evaporust) towels, or go with a large electrolysis bath.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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Tbolt

65 posts in 546 days


#5 posted 07-17-2013 06:55 PM

Goodstuff IMO, but as chrisstef said it works best when submerging the item in it for 12 to 24 hours.

-- Fumbling and Bumbling Woodworking Todd

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Don W

15269 posts in 1263 days


#6 posted 07-17-2013 06:55 PM

I agree with Stef, its great stuff if you can soak it. Its really not designed for you’re type of application. If I was going to try, I’d use rags instead of paper towels.

Sand blaster or wire wheels would be my suggestion. You can sandblast on top of a tarp so you can reuse the media.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

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RonInOhio

720 posts in 1559 days


#7 posted 07-17-2013 07:24 PM

I was kind of skeptical that this wasn’t really the best application. I kind of figured I would do a small spot to try it out. I can always use it on some of my smaller things.

Joe, I read that somewhere else also. To soak paper towels and wrap it with Saran wrap to keep it from evaporating.

This trailer is kind of large for a single axel. Its over 6’ wide and 10 feet long with another foot of an extension off the back. I see Harbor Freight has some 2000 lb capacity 4×8 trailers that fold up for around 389.00. Seems like a bargain to me. But, anyway…. I was tempted to purchase a 2 hp compressor and get one of those needle tools. I heard those do quick work on rust. Its really not an ideal time for me to get a compressor, though its in my future plans.

I will try the brushes first on the grinder and see how that works.

Then will look around for some type of primers or coatings.

Thanks everyone for your input.

View 8iowa's profile

8iowa

1489 posts in 2456 days


#8 posted 07-17-2013 08:13 PM

After watching a Chris Schwarz DVD on re-furbing handplanes, I tried his recommended rust remover solution. He takes granulated citric acid and dissolves it warm water. It doesn’t take a whole lot of acid to be effective. Citric acid is sold in the canning section of grocery stores on can be purchased on line. Amazon is a source.

This solution really works, and is much cheaper than specialty rust removers. It will even remove the zinc plate from screws and hardware for those antique restorations.

However, I wouldn’t think citric acid would be very useful if the parts cannot be submerged.

-- "Heaven is North of the Bridge"

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RonInOhio

720 posts in 1559 days


#9 posted 07-17-2013 08:24 PM

8Iowa-

When I was in the Army, SOP for cleaning battery terminals and such on vehicles was to use Coca-Cola. The Citric acid effect.

I’m not opposed to using something acidic or more corrosive if it does the job. And its not a total pain to rinse off and neutralize. Guess i will have to use some kind of dewaxer regardless.

View DKV's profile

DKV

3190 posts in 1199 days


#10 posted 07-17-2013 08:28 PM

Sweet Baby Jesus, does no one on this site use the search feature? 452 results on a search for EvapoRust. Try it. It’s great.

-- Have fun and laugh alot. Life can end at any moment. You old guys out there know what I mean...

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RonInOhio

720 posts in 1559 days


#11 posted 07-17-2013 08:35 PM

DKV,

Most every single one of those search results that I saw, reviewed its effectiveness on small tools. My
question was specific to how it would work on something larger that cannot be immersed in the product.

View JustJoe's profile

JustJoe

1554 posts in 733 days


#12 posted 07-17-2013 08:56 PM

I just tried the search engine for sweet baby jesus and got 32 hits!

-- This Ad Space For Sale! Your Ad Here! Reach a targeted audience! Affordable Rates, easy financing! Contact an ad represenative today at JustJoe's Advertising Consortium.

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11665 posts in 2383 days


#13 posted 07-17-2013 09:00 PM

Evap-o-rust is Great stuff , but not the correct thing to use on this project.
Been there , done that, with the wet rags / paper towels trick.

By the way, I purchased one of those trailers from HF…it is very useful, but be prepared for the “red” paint to turn “pink” after minimal exposure to the Sun , the fasteners rust in no time , as well as the clips that hold the wiring in place. Another dumb move they made, is where the license plate attaches. It is a dump trailer , and the plate goes beneath the tail light that is mounted way too low not to be crushed if you decide to tip the trailer bed up. And as usual, be prepared to have extra nuts and bolts available to complete the build of your trailer. Thanks again, HF !
One more thing.
The frame isn’t that strong. I installed one of their trailer jacks and then needed to stand on the frame to reach something inside of the trailer.

Oooops, collapsed the frame.

Lesson learned, never stand on the frame if it’s not hooked to the tow vehicle !

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

5129 posts in 1537 days


#14 posted 07-17-2013 11:54 PM

Haven’t used it. I go for the naval jelly approach. How deep is the rust? Rust always wins. How long do you plan to keep the trailer, and what are your plans for use? any rust residue will expand under your paint job.

Is there a tool rental store near you? I bought a sand blasting tube with a reservoir from HF awhile ago. Sand can be purchased at a big box store.

Another thought is to ask your local body repair shop for advice?

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

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DKV

3190 posts in 1199 days


#15 posted 07-18-2013 12:43 AM

After carefully studying this thread’s posts and contemplating for just a bit, I have come to two conclusions:
1. EvapoRust is more popular than sweet baby Jesus, and
2. Never buy a trailer from HF.

-- Have fun and laugh alot. Life can end at any moment. You old guys out there know what I mean...

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