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Forum topic by jimig11 posted 413 days ago 1528 views 1 time favorited 27 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jimig11

55 posts in 539 days


413 days ago

Hi all, so let me start off by saying and I am sure many of you can relate, I have far more time then money. So being on my 4th attempt at a crosscut sled, I have tried, oak, maple and UHMW runners, all were a fail as they all ended up with some play (reason for failed sled though was not having a jointer and doing poor lamination’s of ply).
Poking around the net I see that Kreg as well as a few others have aluminum bar jobs like this one.
http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0002QZ4SA
As soon as I seen it, I thought why not just make it? I can get 1/2”x3/4”x24” of aluminum bar stock for $5 even, so depending on the price of nylon set screws, I estimate this to cost under $15. That is around an 80% saving or $65.41 to be precise after taxes and shipping. Have to grab the wifey from work right now, but will make a stop at HD otw and grab said set screws, will hopefully post the results later this evening.


27 replies so far

View jusfine's profile

jusfine

2280 posts in 1563 days


#1 posted 413 days ago

Buy some plastic screws and adjust your own oak, maple and UHMW runners.

A bag of screws might cost you $5.00.

99% savings…

-- Randy "You are judged as much by the questions you ask as the answers you give..."

View toolie's profile

toolie

1746 posts in 1265 days


#2 posted 413 days ago

reason for failed sled though was not having a jointer and doing poor lamination’s of ply.

a jointer is absolutely unnecessary for fabricating a dead on CC sled. plywood is all it takes and following these instructions:

https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/t13945/

i used niki’s instructions to fabricate this sled (simple and dead accurate @ 90°. 26” between the fences for CCing cabinet panels:

i cheated a bit, using these for the sled runners:

http://www.amazon.com/Incra-IMS1-18-Inch-Miter-Slider/dp/B0000DD1DT/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373931986&sr=8-1&keywords=incra+miter+slider

best part of these miter bars is that they adjust to fit the miter slot from above, unlike the Kreg units you linked above. and yes, two of them are $35, but the ease with which they are applied to the sled and adjusted to the miter slots is, IMHO, worth the cost.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

3905 posts in 965 days


#3 posted 413 days ago

T-track USA has the best prices I’ve seen.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6928 posts in 1551 days


#4 posted 413 days ago

I don’t understand… I never seemed to have “said” problem. And I even used plywood runners. I used T-track for better uses.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/57667

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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jimig11

55 posts in 539 days


#5 posted 413 days ago

Sorry all, to clarify, my problems were a combination, 1st sled miter slots not straight, 2nd was a ts with those pesky tabs on the miter slots, 3rd was from the runners binding up so bad they made the base unflat, 4th was a crappy fence lamination.

View redSLED's profile

redSLED

687 posts in 529 days


#6 posted 413 days ago

Just have to choose your solid wood and plywood carefully, and do cuts, milling and assembly properly. Messing up one or two of those things must causing your problem? No need for metal work unless your goal is to do something different for fun.

-- Perfection is the difference between too much and not enough.

View crank49's profile

crank49

3380 posts in 1608 days


#7 posted 413 days ago

I made my runners out of White Oak, same size as slot.
If you have ears in there, they need to go away.
Drop the blade below the table. Johnson’s paste wax in the slots.
Put two pennies in the bottom of the slots, then put the runners on top.
Run a little bead of glue on top of the runners, then set the plywood on top, kind of square, and let it setup.
After the glue sets verify the runners still slide. Sand or shoulder plane to adjust if needed, then drill and screw the runners in this position.
Position the sled base in the middle of the saw with the blade still all the way down.
Then turn on the saw and gradually raise the blade, cutting through the sled.
When the blade is fully raised, turn off the saw and un-plug it.
Use an accurate large square to position the fence, square to the blade. This is the most important step. Take your time and get it perfect. Glue and clamp the fence in position. Double check square to the blade, adjust as needed before the glue sets up.
After the glue is set, flip the sled over and put some screws through the base and into the fence.
Wax everything really good with paste wax and you are ready to go sledding after you power up the saw and finish cutting the slot.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

View Straightbowed's profile

Straightbowed

717 posts in 935 days


#8 posted 413 days ago

clean slot put runner in, shim runner up to make sure it’s taller than slot, shim runners to one side to eliminate play, measure to center of runners mark centers on sled pull fence over measure center of slot to fence lock down fence, if fence is angled away from saw blade shim for correction or use square and go off blade put temporary screws in take cc sled off make new holes insert screws and your off and running I think

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

View Straightbowed's profile

Straightbowed

717 posts in 935 days


#9 posted 413 days ago

I use steel runners, onmy big cc sled but I have 5 different sizes of sleds all the others have white oak runners, have some for box joints some for small stuff etc etc good luck just take your time I dome the same thing when I was building instead of taking my time I got in a hurry and made a clustermongeration of it all but always do woodwork when your not in a hurry that way you don’t get hurt I found that out the hard way to

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

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Straightbowed

717 posts in 935 days


#10 posted 413 days ago

my fence is angled a few thou away from blade on outfeed side for saftey reasons never have kickback knockon wood I hope

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

View jimig11's profile

jimig11

55 posts in 539 days


#11 posted 412 days ago

“I use steel runners, onmy big cc sled but I have 5 different sizes of sleds all the others have white oak runners, have some for box joints some for small stuff etc etc good luck just take your time I dome the same thing when I was building instead of taking my time I got in a hurry and made a clustermongeration of it all but always do woodwork when your not in a hurry that way you don’t get hurt I found that out the hard way to”
You are on the money, new woodworker wants results instantly lol. It is one of the reasons I picked the hobby up actually, improve patience.

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jimig11

55 posts in 539 days


#12 posted 412 days ago

Hold up everyone, this thread is about saving money not crosscut sleds, so sidetracked lol.
Quick update, “zero play runners” are completed, originally I thought it was $86 for 2×30” bars. nono that $86 is just for one of those bad boys. So all in all, I made 2 runners that retail for $170, for $11 and 45 minutes. I barely even have a workshop and have even less know how. In summary F** you Kreg. Don’t get me wrong, it’s an amazing jig and for say $20-$30/set I would probably just buy them but for $170/set…..NO! BTW they are identical esthetically and performance wise. As soon as my phone is charged I will post pics.

View CessnaPilotBarry's profile

CessnaPilotBarry

887 posts in 747 days


#13 posted 412 days ago

I do all my sleds with 1/4” baltic birch plywood runners… So do several busy professional schools and local shops.

No jointer needed, just keep tapping the fence until you get a press fit, and rip away. I you have runners that are a little loose, toothpick them to the outer slot edges before gluing the floor in place.

-- It's all good, if it's wood...

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15693 posts in 2855 days


#14 posted 412 days ago

First, let me say I think you did a good thing and saved yourself some bucks.

However, I thought something had to be off with that Amazon link. I did some looking around, and that item sells for $23.99 at both Woodcraft and Kreg’s own site. Still a little pricey, maybe, but nowhere near $170 for a pair.

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2005143/4231/kreg-30inch-jig-and-fixture-bar-kreg-kms7303.aspx

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View jimig11's profile

jimig11

55 posts in 539 days


#15 posted 412 days ago

I do all my sleds with 1/4” baltic birch plywood runners… So do several busy professional schools and local shops.

No jointer needed, just keep tapping the fence until you get a press fit, and rip away. I you have runners that are a little loose, toothpick them to the outer slot edges before gluing the floor in place.

Aircraft grade aluminum is cheaper, faster, totally stable, totally adjustable. If I don’t polish these to 1000 grit (@ 100 grit intervals) which is totally unnecessary, then I can pop them out in 20 minutes. I am a hobby woodworker, I have 20 min to spend on runners that will last forever. As well as the advantage of no seasonal movement! WIN/WIN

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