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Forum topic by Don W posted 07-14-2013 12:04 PM 5932 views 33 times favorited 218 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Don W

15572 posts in 1320 days


07-14-2013 12:04 PM

Topic tags/keywords: hand plane plane swap krenov shop made

I’m going to start this but want Everyone to pitch in. I haven’t edited it yet and will be adding notes through the course of the following week, so check back often.

In conjuction with the Plane swap.

Everybody pitch in. I know the rules say you can’t post pictures of the plane, but posting technique, questions, suggestions and process should be shared. If it includes a few pictures, so be it.

This plane will be a normal size smoother.

In choosing the bedding angle, I took this from ST. JAMES BAY TOOL CO's Site.

Since I agree with it 100 %, Copy and paste is faster than typing it out.

—45 degrees: Recommended for work on softwoods.
—47 ½ degrees: A Norris original angle. Recommended for work on soft or hard woods.
—50 degrees: Recommended for work on hard woods.
—55 degrees: Recommended for work on difficult woods, such as extra curly wood.

So the first thing I did was find the body. A piece of reclaimed chestnut looked to fit the bill. I cut the piece about an 1/8” to 3/16” wider than the blade I intend to use. I plan to make this a 50 degree bed, so the bed was cut at 50 degrees, and the front piece at 45 degrees. The front piece can vary. I know David Finch recommends 62 degrees, but I like a little more room to get the shavings out.

I then found a piece of scrap Bloodwood for the sides. I split it down the middle for the two sides. If you want to make a plane that looks like a seamless piece of wood, cut the sides from each side of a complete block. That process is laid out here. Make sure you mark it so you know exactly how it goes back together.

You want the center piece approximately 1/8” to 3/16” wider than the iron.

Here is the iron I’ve chosen for this plane. The chip breaker is one that I made. I had made it for an infill and must have decided on another direction, so it seems to be the perfect fit for this plane.

The groove is to accept the cap screw.

I decided to make this with a vintage iron and chip breaker, just to show the groove. I forgot to make this groove once until after it was glued up. Believe me, before is easier. I’ve also made this groove with a router and table, but my router table is set up for plane totes, and I’ll need that soon, so a sharp chisel seemed quicker.

A quick guick cut with the dovetail saw.

A sanded a little “flat” on the end of the front piece. I don’t like the mouth coming to a true point. It makes it to week and will chip at the very end.

You will find you will be dry fitting over and over again while making this type (or any type I guess) plane.

Next up is a rough out of the wedge. I found a piece of Ash scrap that was the perfect size. It should be the same width as the iron. Note I’m cheating a little here and copying another wedge. Dimensions on this isn’t an exact science, but fitting it to “your” plane is.

Note a little tip at the top. This is not a requirement, but moves the top away from the iron and makes tapping it with the hammer when setting the iron a little easier.

Next up I made the pin. I show here how I did it with a plug cutter, but if you don’t have a plug cutter, I did it with a rasp. I scored the outside (I used the band saw, but any saw would do), then just whittled away until it fit.

So apparently I forgot to take a picture when I marked for the pin holes. Just lay the iron, wedge and pieces together. Leave about an 1/8” extra space so you have room to fit the wedge. Also remember to mark out the whole circle, not just the center so you’re sure you have enough room.

Then dry fit everything again.

Then just glue it up. (note the notches in the top of the sides were in the scrap piece I used, so they were not intentionally put there)

That’s were I left it for the night. More to come.

Off to the shop to see how bad I screwed it up!!

Day 2. On with the show.

So next I flatten the bottom and squared it up with the sides.

I then put it together for a test run. This is the very first shaving to come from the plane.

And being the above pictures where all from softwood, I decided to try a not so friendly piece of Ash.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com


218 replies so far

View CFrye's profile

CFrye

3868 posts in 592 days


#1 posted 07-14-2013 12:27 PM

This will be a great reference . Thanks Don W. What type of plane are you making? What is the groove for? It looks relatively deep. I am reading Finck’s book, just haven’t gotten very far into it yet.

-- God bless, Candy

View ScottKaye's profile

ScottKaye

312 posts in 705 days


#2 posted 07-14-2013 12:31 PM

looking good…

-- "Nothing happens until you build it"

View shelly_b's profile

shelly_b

848 posts in 870 days


#3 posted 07-14-2013 12:45 PM

Thanks this helps alot! What kind of plane is this? Jack, block, etc. Also, could you tell us what the main difference between the main 3 or 4 are? I am trying to decide which I want to make, but other than size, I don’t know what seperates them. Thanks!!

View Mosquito's profile

Mosquito

5191 posts in 1045 days


#4 posted 07-14-2013 01:01 PM

Great tutorial so far Don

-- Mos - Twin Cities, MN -- Stanley #45 Evangelist - www.youtube.com/MosquitoMods

View lysdexic's profile

lysdexic

4892 posts in 1375 days


#5 posted 07-14-2013 01:02 PM

Nice tutorial

-- It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in your shoe. - Muhammad Ali

View Don W's profile

Don W

15572 posts in 1320 days


#6 posted 07-14-2013 01:13 PM

Thank Mos & Scott/

Shelly, this will be a smoother. (OP edited for that info)

As for types. A smoother will be used for smoothing or finishing. A scraper even a finer finish and works on very difficult grain. A smoother should have a mouth of about 1/16” wide when the iron is set to cut. A scraper can be wider, a lot wider. The wider the better for getting the shavings out.

Jacks and scrubs are for rough work. The mouth can be wider and these are usually narrower. A jack is typically like a #5, about 14” long. A scrub is shorter and narrower. Both have a cambered iron, the scrub is cambered more. They will be used for dimensioning lumber, and trueing rough sawn.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View terryR's profile

terryR

3507 posts in 1061 days


#7 posted 07-14-2013 02:04 PM

Thanks for posting, Don, this is def what I’m shooting for…a simple Krenov…with pretty woods. You certainly make it look easy as pie!

After glue up, are pins usually added to hold the ‘knob’ and ‘tote’ sections in place, or is there so much surface area involved that glue is plenty strong enough?

-- tr ...see one, do one, teach one...

View Don W's profile

Don W

15572 posts in 1320 days


#8 posted 07-14-2013 02:15 PM

Terry, glue is plenty strong. You will see some processes that use pins, but they are usually to keep everything lined up during glue up’s. In fact most of the time they are in an area to be cut off.

Another trick I learned, when gluing the sides, use a pinch of salt to keep the wood from sliding around on you. The graduals stick and hold it in place like sand would, but dissolve to nothing from the.glue.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View BBF's profile

BBF

141 posts in 591 days


#9 posted 07-14-2013 02:24 PM

Thanks for sharing this Don.

-- I've never been disappointed buying quality but I have been disappointed buying good enough.

View terryR's profile

terryR

3507 posts in 1061 days


#10 posted 07-14-2013 02:25 PM

Salt, huh? Never read of that in one of my books…

Don, you should be sainted or knighted for payment for all the knowledge you share for free! :)

Can I get an Amen?

-- tr ...see one, do one, teach one...

View ShaneA's profile

ShaneA

5452 posts in 1351 days


#11 posted 07-14-2013 02:29 PM

Amen!

Thanks again for the efforts Don.

View Brit's profile

Brit

5310 posts in 1595 days


#12 posted 07-14-2013 03:07 PM

-- Andy -- Old Chinese proverb say: If you think something can't be done, don't interrupt man who is doing it.

View Brit's profile

Brit

5310 posts in 1595 days


#13 posted 07-14-2013 03:17 PM

Great step by step Don. Very useful.

-- Andy -- Old Chinese proverb say: If you think something can't be done, don't interrupt man who is doing it.

View 7Footer's profile

7Footer

1332 posts in 701 days


#14 posted 07-14-2013 03:56 PM

Great help here thank you Don! You make it seem so simple!

What about the type of glue, which glue have you found to give the best results?

-- Hot Damnit... Your booty like two planets, go ahead and go ham sammich -

View Dallas's profile

Dallas

3212 posts in 1240 days


#15 posted 07-14-2013 04:12 PM

+14!

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

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