cutting plexiglass

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Forum topic by Monte Pittman posted 07-12-2013 10:52 AM 977 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Monte Pittman

30054 posts in 2538 days

07-12-2013 10:52 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question

I am making some cabinet doors on a project. It will be packed around to a couple shows so I didn’t want to put in glass to avoid breakage. What’s the best way to cut plexiglass on tablesaw? Tape both sides and keep blade very low? Don’t want to screw it up either.

-- Nature created it, I just assemble it.

5 replies so far

View ralmand's profile


162 posts in 3502 days

#1 posted 07-12-2013 11:39 AM

I have cut it on tablesaw before with no problem. I used the blue painters tape and tape both sides, set the blade the thickness of the plexiglass, and let her rip. It came out nice and clean. If You have an extra piece, try a practice run first.

-- Randy, Allen Texas

View Handtooler's profile


1628 posts in 2332 days

#2 posted 07-12-2013 05:13 PM

I’ve used masking tape both sides and a 8” Chromex Craftsman plywood veener blade with fine success on 1/8” & 1/4” Plexiglass. Plexiglass but not Lexan. And there is a difference in suseptability to shatter and cracking. If it’s new maaterial leave the adheased paper on both sides and cut with high toothed number blade raised low. Give ‘er a go.

-- Russell Pitner Hixson, TN 37343

View Craftsman70's profile


244 posts in 2325 days

#3 posted 07-12-2013 05:33 PM

For what its worth, I’ve had much better results cutting Lexan then Plexiglass.

View fredj's profile


186 posts in 2017 days

#4 posted 07-12-2013 08:48 PM

Plexi has a low melting point. It is easy to cut on a TS (I’ve cut miles of it). Use a sharp blade 60 to 80 teeth blade. Be ready to have lots of tiny pieces hitting your arms and face. If you are cutting very much you will want to stop from time to time and clean up as melted plexi will build up under the throat plate. Leave the paper backing on it until you are done. You can route the edges if you have to but run slow or it will chip. Edges can be sanded or filed to a very smooth finish. Get any rough stuff of the edges and you can ‘flame polish’ it which looks great. Takes a little practice. You can use a regular blow torch but there are torches that are made for that. A hydrogen oxygen mix is what was used when I did this for retail displays and safety shields. Oh yeah, as I recall Lexan (polycarbonate) is harder than Plexi (acrylic) and has a higher melting point meaning it cuts smoother. But I think it costs more. Also make sure you have UV stabilized stuff which is as a rule stabilized on one side only which you need to keep to the outside if it is to be exposed to sunlight.

-- Fredj

View fredj's profile


186 posts in 2017 days

#5 posted 07-12-2013 08:55 PM

Oh yeah, blade a bit high !

-- Fredj

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