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Easel sliding frame-in-frame

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Forum topic by Charlie posted 378 days ago 588 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Charlie

1001 posts in 884 days


378 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question

Take a look at this picture. It’s the top of in easel where there is an inner frame (on the right) sliding inside of an out frame. The plan calls for me to slot the 3/4” thick outer frame member and insert a “tongue” to ride in the grooved edge of the inner frame.

How would you make that slot in the end grain? Keep in mind this is a 6 foot long …. oh, let’s call it a 1×4.

I was considering just notching the end and making a block with the tongue built into it. Grain of the block perpendicular to the vertical grain of that outer frame member.

I had thought about making mating rabets (oh that sounded dirty) in the outer and inner frames running the full length of each, but I am concerned that any warping or bowing of a frame member would bind the whole thing up tight.

The purpose of the tongue and groove is simply to keep the inner frame from flopping forward and falling out of the outer frame. The inner frame “traps” the outer frame at the bottom (of the inner frame) with no need for tongues or grooves.

ideas?


8 replies so far

View GerryB's profile

GerryB

44 posts in 1180 days


#1 posted 378 days ago

Sheet metal?

-- The pursuit of excellence is gratifying and healthy. The pursuit of perfection is frustrating, neurotic, and a terrible waste of time. Edwin Bliss

View Charlie's profile

Charlie

1001 posts in 884 days


#2 posted 378 days ago

Sheet metal what?

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

1465 posts in 832 days


#3 posted 378 days ago

Two or three hand saw cuts and a chisel will cut a quick and clean cross grain open slot at the end of the stick.

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com

View AandCstyle's profile

AandCstyle

1249 posts in 855 days


#4 posted 378 days ago

Charlie, maybe I am missing something, but how about just using a dowel pin?

-- Art

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10557 posts in 1288 days


#5 posted 378 days ago

Art, Genius! But way too simple!

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Charlie's profile

Charlie

1001 posts in 884 days


#6 posted 378 days ago

Not sure a dowel would be strong enough. At least not a quarter inch dowel. I’d also like it removable so I can easily separate the frames for maintenance. I have some time to puzzle this one. If I can’t make a decision I’m just going to do it like it shows, but I’m not thrilled with it. :)

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

1465 posts in 832 days


#7 posted 378 days ago

A dowel is a good idea. You could use more than one wooden dowel or a metal dowel.
DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com

View Charlie's profile

Charlie

1001 posts in 884 days


#8 posted 377 days ago

I think I’ll go with the plan. I forgot I have a bandsaw! hahahaha…. Since I cleaned my shop I can actually USE it. I put on a new 1/2” 3tpi and got this (in a piece of 1×4 oak):

Only took a minute. AND for a temporary infeed support, I clamped a board across my step ladder. :)
It just has to hold up the back end of a 1×4 about 6 feet long. Could probably do without it, but so much easier to not be fighting an off-balance board while trying to carefully cut the end.

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