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Easel sliding frame-in-frame

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Forum topic by Charlie posted 07-11-2013 06:04 PM 695 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Charlie

1056 posts in 982 days


07-11-2013 06:04 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

Take a look at this picture. It’s the top of in easel where there is an inner frame (on the right) sliding inside of an out frame. The plan calls for me to slot the 3/4” thick outer frame member and insert a “tongue” to ride in the grooved edge of the inner frame.

How would you make that slot in the end grain? Keep in mind this is a 6 foot long …. oh, let’s call it a 1×4.

I was considering just notching the end and making a block with the tongue built into it. Grain of the block perpendicular to the vertical grain of that outer frame member.

I had thought about making mating rabets (oh that sounded dirty) in the outer and inner frames running the full length of each, but I am concerned that any warping or bowing of a frame member would bind the whole thing up tight.

The purpose of the tongue and groove is simply to keep the inner frame from flopping forward and falling out of the outer frame. The inner frame “traps” the outer frame at the bottom (of the inner frame) with no need for tongues or grooves.

ideas?


8 replies so far

View GerryB's profile

GerryB

47 posts in 1278 days


#1 posted 07-11-2013 06:13 PM

Sheet metal?

-- The pursuit of excellence is gratifying and healthy. The pursuit of perfection is frustrating, neurotic, and a terrible waste of time. Edwin Bliss

View Charlie's profile

Charlie

1056 posts in 982 days


#2 posted 07-11-2013 06:51 PM

Sheet metal what?

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

1618 posts in 930 days


#3 posted 07-11-2013 10:22 PM

Two or three hand saw cuts and a chisel will cut a quick and clean cross grain open slot at the end of the stick.

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com

View AandCstyle's profile

AandCstyle

1387 posts in 953 days


#4 posted 07-11-2013 11:21 PM

Charlie, maybe I am missing something, but how about just using a dowel pin?

-- Art

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

11269 posts in 1386 days


#5 posted 07-12-2013 01:11 AM

Art, Genius! But way too simple!

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Charlie's profile

Charlie

1056 posts in 982 days


#6 posted 07-12-2013 01:45 AM

Not sure a dowel would be strong enough. At least not a quarter inch dowel. I’d also like it removable so I can easily separate the frames for maintenance. I have some time to puzzle this one. If I can’t make a decision I’m just going to do it like it shows, but I’m not thrilled with it. :)

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

1618 posts in 930 days


#7 posted 07-12-2013 01:58 AM

A dowel is a good idea. You could use more than one wooden dowel or a metal dowel.
DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com

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Charlie

1056 posts in 982 days


#8 posted 07-12-2013 02:06 PM

I think I’ll go with the plan. I forgot I have a bandsaw! hahahaha…. Since I cleaned my shop I can actually USE it. I put on a new 1/2” 3tpi and got this (in a piece of 1×4 oak):

Only took a minute. AND for a temporary infeed support, I clamped a board across my step ladder. :)
It just has to hold up the back end of a 1×4 about 6 feet long. Could probably do without it, but so much easier to not be fighting an off-balance board while trying to carefully cut the end.

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