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Band Saw tensioner mechanism

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Forum topic by parkerdog posted 07-11-2013 04:23 PM 1060 views 1 time favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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parkerdog

24 posts in 513 days


07-11-2013 04:23 PM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw tensioner

I’ve been refurbishing my new to me 14” central machinery bandsaw. New bearings, replacing the broken trunnions, pulley swaps and cleaning.

In removing items I discovered that there is quite a bit of play in the pins/part that hold the top wheel tracking adjustment. I’ve got it apart and it doesn’t seem to be overly worn nor is it even a greasable part. Probably because you shouldn’t have to do much adjusting?

I also thought that when there is tension on it , that would hold it in place maybe? Is that the case or should it be a tighter fit?

The red arrows are pointing to where the sloppiness is. I tried turning the pins around but it made no difference.

Also the pins are a better fit in the square part not pictured. Overall maybe 2 mm up and down. It’s pretty noticeable when there isn’t tension on it.

That isn’t a picture of the actual part but the part I’m considering buying if it’s deemed necessary.


15 replies so far

View scotsman9's profile

scotsman9

134 posts in 543 days


#1 posted 07-11-2013 04:49 PM

Is there play in the part when the proper tension is applied to the proper blade depth?

There will always be play in the tension mechanism until all the forces required to operate have been applied.

-- Just a man and his opinion.

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parkerdog

24 posts in 513 days


#2 posted 07-11-2013 05:01 PM

“Is there play in the part when the proper tension is applied to the proper blade depth?”

I would assume the play is still there, you just wouldn’t be able to move it by hand.

I guess my concern is will the movement/play affect the wheel tracking? With it just sitting there with no tension the wheel can be moved quite a bit when you hold on to the outer edges, sides and top and bottom.

This is movement from the slop in the part indicated not the normal movement needed to adjust the tracking with the bolt from the back.

I haven’t gotten this saw back together yet so I haven’t run it myself to see. I just want to find out if other band saws are like this or should I replace that part as well. I don’t want to buy a new part and then find out it’s the same way as the old one.

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scotsman9

134 posts in 543 days


#3 posted 07-11-2013 05:16 PM

Every band saw I have ever owned always had play in the tension mechanism when not under load. How else would you be able to adjust to proper tension without an allowable distance of movement?

Each blade depth requires different levels of force to be applied in order to operate correctly, this means there must be room for movement in the tension mechanism.

Now, as stated earlier, if you have play when force is applied properly, then you have a problem. I suspect you will be able to tell rather quickly if you have wheel play under proper operation.

Good Luck

-- Just a man and his opinion.

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parkerdog

24 posts in 513 days


#4 posted 07-11-2013 06:04 PM

I guess I’m not explaining myself well enough. I know that there is play in the tension mech. to set the tension.

To be more precise I’ll say where my arrows are pointing, that diameter of that hole is larger than the diameter of those pins. This is allowing slop. I said it wrong. I called it tension mechanism when in reality it is just a part of the tension mechanism. It is actually the blade tracking adjustment for the wheel.

Having play where I indicated is not needed I would think because it pivots on those pins.

Again are new parts like that and I would be wasting money replacing that part or is it wore out?

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scotsman9

134 posts in 543 days


#5 posted 07-11-2013 06:38 PM

I suppose at this point I must confess my ignorance to your particular band saw.
It has been my experience that if a part is removable or adjustable then it has a function beyond a simple pivot point. Otherwise, it would be a solid stationary extension.

That being said, manufacturers often build in replaceable parts for no particular reason.

If I were you, I would reassemble it, test it all and go from there. No sense spending money needlessly if it all turn out to work just fine.

-- Just a man and his opinion.

View distrbd's profile

distrbd

1111 posts in 1101 days


#6 posted 07-11-2013 08:33 PM

I replaced that particular part(Upper Wheel Shaft Hinge) 2 weeks ago,it didn’t come with the pins,the older one had one pin going through the hole but the new one was just like the one in your picture.
I found a metal rod almost the same diameter as the the hole ,cut two pieces to the right length,and installed it,there was enough play in there for the part to slightly wiggle,and no,there’s no need to lubricate the pins.

-- Ken from Ontario

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parkerdog

24 posts in 513 days


#7 posted 07-12-2013 12:54 AM

Thanks distrbd,scotsman. I went and re-assembled just to take another look and I found that one of the sides where the arrow is pointing (that pic is not actual part) has a lip developing on it. Like what happens when you hammer on a chisel. It’s not very much but it is there. To me that’s indicating excessive movement which can’t be good for overall alignment.

I think I’ll replace that part but for now I’m going to run it till I can find a replacement. Anybody know what bearings the delta wheels take? This one uses a 6202 and I haven’t found a place to cross reference the delta part numbers yet.
Also I learned that not all 14” band saws take the 93 1/2 inch blade. That’s what I bought without measuring and before I got the manual from harbor freight. This saw uses a 91.7 inch. The 93.5 bottoms out on the wheel guard before it even gets tight on the wheel. Closest I’ve found standard is 92 and 92.5.

Anyone have a site that has a better selection than what I’ve found? (2choices for 92”)

Thanks

View upinflames's profile

upinflames

87 posts in 816 days


#8 posted 07-12-2013 01:35 AM

Try these folks, http://customblades.com/cgi-bin/blades.exe?BLADEMATERIAL=F any length you want and reasonable prices.

View distrbd's profile

distrbd

1111 posts in 1101 days


#9 posted 07-12-2013 02:09 AM

92.5” is also a common size just like 93.5”,I get all my bandsaw parts and blades from a place in Toronto called R&D Bandsaw:
http://www.tufftooth.com/.
you can get the upper wheel shaft hinge , the bearings ,and blades cut to any length you want.great service too.

-- Ken from Ontario

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JoeinGa

3245 posts in 661 days


#10 posted 07-12-2013 07:18 PM

Re: play at the pins…. Any chance the previous owner changed out those pins? There is actually standard (American) sizes and also METRIC sizes of those roll pins. Perhaps you need pins in a metric size to take up that bit of slack.

Most any auto parts house will have an assortment of the pins in std and metric. Bring a caliper or micrometer with you to find a size to your liking.

-- Perform A Random Act Of Kindness Today ... Pay It Forward

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parkerdog

24 posts in 513 days


#11 posted 07-12-2013 08:51 PM

“Re: play at the pins…. Any chance the previous owner changed out those pins? There is actually standard (American) sizes and also METRIC sizes of those roll pins. Perhaps you need pins in a metric size to take up that bit of slack.

Most any auto parts house will have an assortment of the pins in std and metric. Bring a caliper or micrometer with you to find a size to your liking.”

I wish that was the case. On my old part the pins are solid and they still fit fairly tight in the tension mechanism. Just the part represented by the picture seems to be wallowed out.

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parkerdog

24 posts in 513 days


#12 posted 07-12-2013 08:59 PM

Thanks for the links distrbd, dustmagnet. Distrbd, I found out my ^%(% new cell phone won’t call outside the us. lol But I was able to get some of their July specials ordered through email.

I ordered a couple of 1/2 inch a 1/4 inch and for s and g a 3/32nd all on special. Do you have any of those specific blades on the special page?

Sam

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JoeinGa

3245 posts in 661 days


#13 posted 07-12-2013 09:48 PM

”On my old part the pins are solid and they still fit fairly tight …”

Perhaps you could replace the solid pins with split roll pins and squeeze ‘em into the “tighter half”

-- Perform A Random Act Of Kindness Today ... Pay It Forward

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parkerdog

24 posts in 513 days


#14 posted 07-13-2013 12:14 AM

I don’t think putting roll pins in would work. This picture is just an example not my actual part but I was too lazy to go out and take a pic.

Anyway, the red arrow points to the pin and where it fits fairly tight. The yellow is where it has worn a thin lip and the hole is a larger diameter. So if I drove a roll pin in it would still make it smaller than what is needed in the yellow area. And no room to put in the larger diameter then drive into smaller.

I ordered my blades today so when I get them next week hopefully I’ll run it and see what happens then replace the whole mechanism down the road. I sent an email to the ebay seller on the part in the first pic to find out if it uses the same size bearings but I haven’t received a reply yet.

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distrbd

1111 posts in 1101 days


#15 posted 07-13-2013 12:23 AM

”I ordered a couple of 1/2 inch a 1/4 inch and for s and g a 3/32nd all on special. Do you have any of those specific blades on the special page?”
Sam

I have 1/2” x .025” x 3TPI Carbon Bandsaw Blade that’s on sale right now,also their Industrial Silicon blades in sizes 1/2” ,3/8” ,1/4”.they are excellent blades,stay sharp for quite a while ,the welds are always done right,overall I am very impressed with their bandsaw blades.

-- Ken from Ontario

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