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Forum topic by TDIce posted 07-10-2013 08:46 AM 1117 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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TDIce

2 posts in 470 days


07-10-2013 08:46 AM

Topic tags/keywords: woodshop design features construction detached heating cooling material flooring must have

Greetings,

I’m new here and this is my first post, so please be nice. :-)

I am in the design phase for a new detached woodworking shop and would like some suggestions on what to include.
My current plans call for a 24’ x 36’ single level stick built building with a 10’ ceiling. For the most part I will only be using the shop on weekends and I’m looking forward to spending lots of time there when I retire in 2211 days, 2 hours, and 57 minutes. I’m located in southeast PA which requires heating and cooling.
I like the idea of radiant floor heating but don’t like the idea of always having the heat on to keep it from freezing during the winter months.
I like the idea of a wood floor for the comfort of standing on it for hours on end but don’t like the idea of a flame type heater when using flammable finishes. What suggestions, comments, and ideas do you have concerning the flooring, heating, other “must/should” haves, and anything else that I should take under consideration?

Thanks for any and all input
Tim


10 replies so far

View JoeinGa's profile

JoeinGa

3335 posts in 695 days


#1 posted 07-10-2013 10:47 AM

”What suggestions, comments, and ideas do you have…, and anything else that I should take under consideration?”

If at all possible, Build it BIGGER!

For my last shop, I passed up the chance to build a 40’X40’ and went with a 30’X40’ (based on price). Found out very quickly that I wished I’d opted for the bigger place. Seems you can NEVER have enough room.

-- Perform A Random Act Of Kindness Today ... Pay It Forward

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RogerM

451 posts in 1087 days


#2 posted 07-10-2013 04:12 PM

Tim – I was where you were a few years ago and have a good understanding of what you are faced with. Please view my LJ webpage for an extensive writeup of some of the details that I embraced in my effort. I have been most pleased with the outcome and find that the overall layout and design has served me well. If you would like to contact me with further questions please feel free to do so.

Roger

-- Roger M, Aiken, SC

View reedwood's profile

reedwood

884 posts in 1364 days


#3 posted 07-10-2013 11:48 PM

My garage shop is 24’ deep.

I sure wish it was 30’ so I could rip a 16’ board without opening the door or flipping it.

-- Mark - I prefer the tumult of liberty to the quiet of servitude.

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a1Jim

112313 posts in 2265 days


#4 posted 07-11-2013 12:22 AM

I would start with what you think you want to make, that will help you decide how much equipment ,wood storage and free floor space you will need. This can help with the design http://www.grizzly.com/workshopplanner. I would suggest having some dust collection in the floor these same spaces can be used for electrical and air supplies also. and plan where your dust collector and air compressor will be located. Don’t forget to have plenty of outlets for both 110 and 220. It will also be a good idea to plan for wood and supply storage too. If your going to have 10’ ceilings and are going to store wood on end then your wood will have to be a little less 10’ long. You will also want to think about what kind of lighting and where you want it located. Good luck with you shop build.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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RonInOhio

720 posts in 1552 days


#5 posted 07-11-2013 12:31 AM

I’m trying to think of a scenario where I would be ripping a 16 foot long board. I’m sure
there is that possibility ,(building trim, building a house or something, but its not something
I would build a shop around. Never ripped a board that long and see no reason to.

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

2860 posts in 1931 days


#6 posted 07-14-2013 06:04 PM

No matter how well you think you have designed your shop, it will never turn out the way you want. As they say, ”you learn by your mistakes”, but after the mistake is made, it’s rather difficult to correct. An 8’ ceiling is an example of a mistake that can’t be corrected. You can design and then hope for the best. Later on down the road, you will realize what else you could have done.
As far as radiant heat is concerned, I think the cost to run it is much higher than other heating methods. Don’t skimp on insulation; a 10’ minimum ceiling height; plenty of electrical outlets, 20 amp for outlets, 15 amp for lighting (only); 200 amp electric service; dedicated 220 for each machine. Don’t use propane heaters. They put out a lot of moisture. Get a good dust collector system right off the bat. Use 8’ fluorescent lighting for general lighting and LED or xenon for task lights. Plumb the shop for compressed air and provide at least a 3hp oil lubed belt drive compressor; no oil-free please. I would use a metal roof; doors large enough for handling materials and machines. Consider grade. You don’t want the shop to ever get flooded. In my shop, I installed an electric furnace/air conditioner when I replaced the one in the house with a bigger unit. Am I satisfied with my shop as it now stands? Hell, no; there are lots more things I can do. remember your priorities will change as you go through life, so the shop you designed three years ago doesn’t suit your present needs. That’s just how the cookie crumbles. Always keep in mind the possibilities for a change in he future, so you can plan for it in advance.
Down here in South Mississippi, my conditions will be different from yours in Pennsylvania. I have to take into account, hurricanes and flooding in my design. Yours will be different.

View teejk's profile

teejk

1215 posts in 1372 days


#7 posted 07-14-2013 07:22 PM

I built 30×40 finished space (30×16 “cold” in the same stucture for total 30×56). More than enough room for me so your planned dimensions should be fine. Electrical comes out from the house on a 100a breaker to a subpanel where I think I’m only using 12 slots in total (lighting, 1 120v for the cold side, 2 240v and the remainder 120v circuits on the warm side…2 circuits running around the shop through 3/4” emt and 4 outlets per box every 10 feet or so depending on bends, a 120v for the power vented hot water heater that provides the infloor radiant). Never a problem there (lights are on all the time but rarely is more than 1 tool running at the same time).

Radiant is nice…I live in Wisconsin and a closed loop system will be good to about -35F when mixed with glycol. There is something in the head that says when your feet and legs are warm, your whole body is warm. I shut the heat down early to let the slab cool before it gets hot. We have had a cold spring/summer so it is still only about 70 in the shop so far. Otherwise I open windows and doors and run a big fan.

View TDIce's profile

TDIce

2 posts in 470 days


#8 posted 07-15-2013 12:42 AM

Thanks for the replies. Good information and things to consider. As this progresses I’ll post updates

View Jerry's profile

Jerry

2208 posts in 2235 days


#9 posted 07-15-2013 12:57 AM

We are building an 80*40 so this is an interesting topic for us. But I really don’t have much advice as of yet since we have just poured the foundation so far. We are using old oil field pipe and C purlin for structure, I beam rafter and R panel skin.

I will say that Sketchup has been my go to program for planning. It has been amazing. Hope it all goes well for you.

-- Jerry Nettrour, San Antonio, www.topqualitycabinets.net

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RibsBrisket4me

1376 posts in 1193 days


#10 posted 07-15-2013 01:11 AM

Welcome to a great site!

-- http://www.PictureTrail.com/gid6255915

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