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RIKON 10-325 blade wobble (oscillation)

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Forum topic by canuckMKD posted 07-08-2013 09:14 AM 675 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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canuckMKD

8 posts in 443 days


07-08-2013 09:14 AM

Topic tags/keywords: rikon 10-325 wobble blade

Hello,
I know there have been a few threads about this topic, however id like to revisit this issue. I purchased a Rikon 10-325, and I just can’t rid of the blade wobbling front to back. They have a technical bulletin on how to adjust the lower wheel, with those four bolts, but for whatever reason I cannot get any blade to run straight without front/back wobble, Ive tried about 5 different blades now. I have been messing with the lower wheel and I don’t know what to do to fix this. I called them a few weeks ago and the guy just said to position the lower wheel shaft exactly in the centre of the hole by eye. I did that and it didnt work. Im afraid I might have screwed up the lower wheel worse than what it was. I am very frustrated and thinking of just selling this saw for cheap and buying a Grizzly can anyone give me some advise?


9 replies so far

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toolie

1762 posts in 1287 days


#1 posted 07-08-2013 11:01 AM

been there, done that on an 18” jet. is this what your blade is doing:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrxBP8YBKYM

if yes, it’s probably the blade(s). i went through 4 new timbersolf blades and they all “loped”(that’s wood magazine’s term for that oscillatory motion). i also fiddled with the lower wheel adjustment of the jet and it had no effect at all on the performance of the saw

here’s the same saw, with a misaligned lower wheel, and a new lennox promaster blade from iturra design (note the nickel to the left of the blade):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrxBP8YBKYM

phil thien had seen my problem and suggested lou iturra to me. lou welded up a blade so it was perfectly aligned and it made the jet into a new saw.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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canuckMKD

8 posts in 443 days


#2 posted 07-08-2013 08:06 PM

Hi,
Your two video’s there are the same, should the 2nd one be different?

Today I went out and bought a new set of neoprene tires to see if that would help and it made a huge difference. The blade is running much much smoother now, and it is tracking much better. I know conventional wisdom is that the tires really dont improve performance too much but seeing is believing. The wobble is very minimal now. I can actually do some woodworking finally.

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toolie

1762 posts in 1287 days


#3 posted 07-08-2013 10:16 PM

Your two video’s there are the same, should the 2nd one be different?

if you review the first video carefully, you’ll note the blade moving is an oscillatory motion as it moves over the top wheel. that’s with one of the new t-wolf blades that had a defective weld. the vibration caused by the imperfect weld caused significant enough vibration that the saw consistently toppled a nickel.

the second video is with a misaligned lower wheel and a new lennox promaster form iturra. vibration was literally non-existent (nore the nickel to the left of the blade). like you, i changed tires from the original rubber tires to new urethanes. the blade still oscillated. even minimally oscillating blade will eventually damage the upper and lower thrust bearings and create accuracy defeating vibration, at least according to the wood magazine editor i discussed this problem with.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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canuckMKD

8 posts in 443 days


#4 posted 07-09-2013 01:11 AM

Im going to order some lenoxx blades as well, Ive heard nothing but good things about those.
Right now my blade inventory consists of Timberwolves & grizzly blades. I also still have the stock blade.

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MrRon

2837 posts in 1902 days


#5 posted 07-09-2013 06:53 PM

I have a POS Ridgid BS and I don’t have any problems with “lobbing”. The bearings may be bad in the wheels. I use a Starrett Woodpecker blade. The finest blade I have ever used. It tracks flawlessly because the blade ends are perfectly aligned and the weld is impossible to see. There really isn’t too much difference between blade brands as far as the blade stock is concerned. The important thing is how well the guy makes up the blade.

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toolie

1762 posts in 1287 days


#6 posted 07-09-2013 08:27 PM

The important thing is how well the guy makes up the blade.

and that’s the reason iturra is, presently, the only place i shop for BS blades. IMHO, that guy really knows how to weld a BS blade.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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canuckMKD

8 posts in 443 days


#7 posted 07-10-2013 04:58 AM

Is there a way to check if the bearings are bad?, Also do you just tap them out with a hammer if your going to remove them from the wheel?

View Matthew Parker's profile

Matthew Parker

15 posts in 704 days


#8 posted 07-13-2013 06:16 PM

With my Grizzly G0555 this was caused by a set of failed upper wheel bearings.
you can check for bad bearings by removing the blade and turning the wheel. If the wheel turns smoothly with no catching or wobbling the bearings are probably ok. On my grizzly the bearings were easily pounded out and replaced.

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canuckMKD

8 posts in 443 days


#9 posted 03-26-2014 01:14 AM

Havent looked at this post for a while. Got rid of the rikon 10-325 and found an old Rockwell 28-200! Got it for only 200 bucks, cleaned it up, took out the motor which was only 1/2 HP and sold it, then i bought a Harbor-fright 1HP motor, installed it with a link-belt… I also upgraded to olsen cool blocks + put new tires and I love it. the blade runs perfectly with the gullets centered on the wheel & I have not even touched the tracking knob… Plus I can proudly say that I have one of the last american made pieces of equipment in my shop.

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