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Reducing Snipe with Grizzley G1066Z Drum Sander

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Forum topic by Shermy posted 10-28-2008 08:53 PM 3471 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Shermy

2 posts in 3576 days


10-28-2008 08:53 PM

Topic tags/keywords: sander

The owners manual is very vague on how to make adjustments for eliminating snipe. There are 2 sand paper drums and 3 spring loaded rollers. What is the best place to start?

-- Jerry, Iowa


7 replies so far

View Mark Shymanski's profile

Mark Shymanski

5621 posts in 3791 days


#1 posted 01-22-2009 03:56 PM

Did you get this resolved?

-- "Checking for square? What madness is this! The cabinet is square because I will it to be so!" Jeremy Greiner LJ Topic#20953 2011 Feb 2

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Shermy

2 posts in 3576 days


#2 posted 01-25-2009 08:49 PM

No, I have not received an answer yet that helps. Thank you for your interest. Let me know if anyone has a solution. Jerry

-- Jerry, Iowa

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lasers59

3 posts in 2327 days


#3 posted 03-30-2012 09:26 PM

I own the 16” Grizzly G1079R dual-drum sander, and recently it started to snipe boards (4” at both infeed and outfeed ends, very repeatable, same .005” depth, etc.) I’ve completely re-aligned the machine using a dial indicator, I’ve tried changing the 3 pressure rollers spring tension from very light to very heavy, new sandpaper, yet the snipe remains the same. I’ve tried different length boards of both hard maple and softer walnut, etc. etc. Nothing seems to change the snipe (this, after making 4 sets of hard maple breadboards over Christmas, all flat as glass).

I would REALLY appreciate any input anyone has…..yes, I’ve called Grizzly, spoke to someone who, after listening to everything I’ve tried, basically said “Gee, sounds like you’ve tried everything. Too much or too little roller pressure can cause snipe….” and that was all he had to offer. I’m wondering just how critical the roller pressures are?
—Mike in Tucson, AZ

-- Mike in Tucson, AZ

View bruc101's profile

bruc101

1212 posts in 3621 days


#4 posted 03-30-2012 09:42 PM

I’ve a woodworking friend has one and it started sniping. He fiddled around with the rollers and stopped the snipe. I think loose was better for him.
I had this problem one time with my Performax 22-44. The rollers were to tight and I worked on loosing them until the snipe stopped. that was about 16 years ago and it’s not sniping and I’ve not touched the rollers since then. I think my problem was the rollers were tighter on one end than the opposite end.

-- Bruce Free Plans http://plans.sawmillvalley.org

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lasers59

3 posts in 2327 days


#5 posted 03-30-2012 10:15 PM

Bruce: Thanks! If you’re in contact with your friend, could you ask him to estimate: (a) how far up the bottoms of his pressure roller springs are from the brackets that hold them, and (b) how far down he’s pushing on the tops of the springs? That would go a LONG way to getting me back to a correct starting point…I’m beginning to get the impression that the roller pressures are a lot more critical than I’ve been thinking. If not, I understand, and I should be able to (on my own) arrive at the same settings.

Before the snipe showed up (without re-aligning anything, by the way), I was able to sand glass-flat surfaces. Before the snipe, I LOVED the G1079….after the snipe, don’t ask :(

-- Mike in Tucson, AZ

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bruc101

1212 posts in 3621 days


#6 posted 03-31-2012 03:44 AM

I’ll give him a call this weekend Mike and find out what he can tell me.

-- Bruce Free Plans http://plans.sawmillvalley.org

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lasers59

3 posts in 2327 days


#7 posted 05-31-2012 03:35 AM

Bruce: Did your friend ever give you any hints about how he actually reduced the snipe in his Grizzly drum sander? Since our last postings, I haven’t even gotten back to working on mine….it seems like I’ve tried everything. Quite frankly, I’m not sure what my next approach should be, but I would certainly start with your advice, by loosening up the springs as much as possible, and slowly increasing the spring pressure until I get lucky?!

-- Mike in Tucson, AZ

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