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Forum topic by Straightbowed posted 07-07-2013 06:40 PM 653 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Straightbowed

717 posts in 995 days


07-07-2013 06:40 PM

not really, bearings finally went out on my 1023sl would like to put a really good bearing back in, any suggestions

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country


17 replies so far

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Straightbowed

717 posts in 995 days


#1 posted 07-07-2013 06:41 PM

arbor bearings that is, only 1 went bad but gonna replace both

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

View Dallas's profile

Dallas

3063 posts in 1184 days


#2 posted 07-07-2013 06:47 PM

remove bearings, clean off side, read what is printed on them.
Go to your nearest bearing and drive supplier and have him spec a better one for you.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

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Straightbowed

717 posts in 995 days


#3 posted 07-07-2013 06:51 PM

leaning toward SKF bearing if I can find one

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3507 posts in 2657 days


#4 posted 07-07-2013 08:12 PM

SKF is good stuff. Make sure ya get a SEALED bearing instead of a SHIELDED one.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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crank49

3466 posts in 1667 days


#5 posted 07-07-2013 08:50 PM

I’d go for USA made Fafnir/Torrington myself.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

View Bob Kassmeyer's profile

Bob Kassmeyer

99 posts in 1622 days


#6 posted 07-07-2013 09:37 PM

You do not need to take the saw apart to find bearing number. Grizzly lists the generic number for the bearing also in their parts list. In this case the number is 6203-2RS. It can be ordered from any of the venders already stated. I usually use VBX bearings but they all have good products if you buy the sealed units.

-- Bob Kassmeyer, Nebraska

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69BBNova

338 posts in 913 days


#7 posted 07-08-2013 01:37 AM

The only bearings I have ever used is Timmkin (sold under Koyo name now), or Bower/BCA…

I was a transmission mech. in the 70s-80s never had a problem.

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Straightbowed

717 posts in 995 days


#8 posted 07-08-2013 02:47 AM

yep Im goin with KOYO bearings most Timken bearings you buy are Koyo in the box get them at Fastenal

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

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Straightbowed

717 posts in 995 days


#9 posted 07-09-2013 12:05 AM

thanks for the input guys good advice from fellow Jocks

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

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Quanter50

160 posts in 993 days


#10 posted 07-09-2013 01:17 AM

My G1023 also has that very slight wobble at shutdown I’m sure I’ll be replacing my arbor bearings too. Searching Google I am finding that the 6203-2RS has different thicknesses. I saw 1/2” and I saw 17mm ones. I also found this chart that explains bearing nomenclature. http://www.gizmology.net/bearings.htm

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Straightbowed

717 posts in 995 days


#11 posted 07-09-2013 04:15 PM

40×17x12 is what I used NTN bearings, very good bearing I checked a few other bearings and this by far was the best one very tight feeling bearing no play whatsoever the KOYO bearings are junk compared to this bearing IMHO

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

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Straightbowed

717 posts in 995 days


#12 posted 07-09-2013 04:16 PM

Kinda like a Hart barrel to a Shaw barrel

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

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Straightbowed

717 posts in 995 days


#13 posted 07-09-2013 04:22 PM

I would go ceramic bearing if I was in a more production shop but they are quite expensive cheapest I could find $63.00 per bearing

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

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Quanter50

160 posts in 993 days


#14 posted 07-09-2013 06:09 PM

Straightbowed…..do a search on ebay for “6203-2RS1 Bearing Hybrid Ceramic 17×40x12 Ball Bearings” I see them for $35.90 each including shipping.

View 69BBNova's profile

69BBNova

338 posts in 913 days


#15 posted 07-09-2013 06:26 PM

Its a shame the Koyos are junk, Timkins were nice in the old days…

I am curious about the country of origin of the Koyos, If they move that bad they are garbage…

But I’m wondering if the one they showed you was one of the series that allows misalignment of the shafts for some applications…

I seem to remember something about a model they carried like that…

I looked in there .pdf file (months ago) and I admit it was a nightmare…

Sorry for the poor advice, but as of now I’m not recommending Koyo anymore…

Glad to hear you have good ones now.

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