LumberJocks

I always seem to crown with my jointer

  • Advertise with us

« back to Hand Tools forum

Forum topic by rfusca posted 07-07-2013 03:26 AM 1016 views 0 times favorited 21 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View rfusca's profile

rfusca

155 posts in 589 days


07-07-2013 03:26 AM

Whenever I’m edge jointing with my #6 or #7 hand plane, I always seem end up with a really slight crown. I’m trying to even ease up on the pressure on the ends…what am I doing wrong? I haven’t been doing it that long….is this common..or?

-- Chris S., North Atlanta, GA - woodworker,DBA, cook, photographer


21 replies so far

View distrbd's profile (online now)

distrbd

1302 posts in 1192 days


#1 posted 07-07-2013 03:52 AM

if you watch this video you’ll probably get an idea why you are having that crown .it is likely your outfeed table is not at the right height:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J837uiPR60Y

-- Ken from Ontario

View Texchappy's profile

Texchappy

252 posts in 966 days


#2 posted 07-07-2013 04:02 AM

Assuming you are talking Stanley #6 or #7 hand plane then it is very common. Here’s a video I found useful…
http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/video/3100/3105.html

-- Wood is not velveeta

View distrbd's profile (online now)

distrbd

1302 posts in 1192 days


#3 posted 07-07-2013 04:03 AM

My bad,I didn’t catch,6 and 7 .

-- Ken from Ontario

View bandit571's profile (online now)

bandit571

7478 posts in 1429 days


#4 posted 07-07-2013 04:04 AM

Lots of pressure down at the front knob to start the cut, then let up as you get to the far end.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View AKwoodwkr's profile

AKwoodwkr

7 posts in 531 days


#5 posted 07-07-2013 04:25 AM

That is a very common problem. Plane a hollow into the stock with stop shavings. Start about an inch in from the end and finish about an inch from the far end. Take several stop shavings depending on how much of a hump you have. Once you have a hollow, one or two full length shavings will give you a flat edge.

A slightly hollow edge is much better than a hump!

Jonathan

-- “It’s good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.” Ursula K. LeGuin

View unbob's profile

unbob

466 posts in 649 days


#6 posted 07-07-2013 04:39 AM

Very often handplane soles are just not straight, if that is the case then one has to compensate like mentioned above.
If the planes sole is straight, it will most often cut a straight edge..
I found the front portion of the sole is very important. The front from the blade slot forward is often curved upward, or the area around the blade slot protrudes. When its like that, it will slope down the boards edge at the beginning and end. This becoming worse every stroke.

View Texchappy's profile

Texchappy

252 posts in 966 days


#7 posted 07-07-2013 04:52 AM

Another video reference from the visual learner; this shows what Jonathan was describing…
http://logancabinetshoppe.com/blog/2010/10/episode-28/ pay attention to about minute 8

-- Wood is not velveeta

View rfusca's profile

rfusca

155 posts in 589 days


#8 posted 07-07-2013 04:52 AM

The sole is definitely flat – so that’s not it. I’ll see if the chris schwarz ‘ice cream scoop’ helps – but it seems to be really close to what I was already doing.

-- Chris S., North Atlanta, GA - woodworker,DBA, cook, photographer

View unbob's profile

unbob

466 posts in 649 days


#9 posted 07-07-2013 05:20 AM

Lie Neilson planes are said to be .0005” flat. They do work very well.
A plane set on a flat surface, tested with a thin strip of rice paper-.001” thick
If the paper can be pulled out at any point along the length of the plane-it is warped twice the tolerance of a LN plane, at least.
I do not own LN planes, but have tried them. I have not found an old plane that would pass that test, or work as well until corrected.

View knockknock's profile (online now)

knockknock

251 posts in 919 days


#10 posted 07-07-2013 12:49 PM

Along with episode 28 that Texchappy posted, watch the last third of episode 27.

http://logancabinetshoppe.com/blog/2010/10/episode-27/

View Mauricio's profile

Mauricio

6901 posts in 1897 days


#11 posted 07-07-2013 01:33 PM

+1 to what AKwoodwkr said. David Charlsworth has great videos on this technique if you ever get a chance to see one of his videos.

Take shavings from the middle of the board until the plane stops cutting then a couple of full length shavings. Charlsworth teaches to shoot for a concave surface along both the width and the length. It gives you the best registration for your square for laying out joinery and what not. This has idea has helped out my edge jointing a lot.

-- Mauricio - Woodstock, GA - "Confusion is the Womb of Learning, with utter conviction being it's Tomb" Prof. T.O. Nitsch

View theoldfart's profile

theoldfart

4730 posts in 1197 days


#12 posted 07-07-2013 03:15 PM

Ditto on AKwood and Mauricio you’ll get a better glue joint with a sprung edge.

-- "Aged flatus, I heard that some one has already blown out your mortise." THE Surgeon ……………………………………. Kevin

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile

Smitty_Cabinetshop

10332 posts in 1364 days


#13 posted 07-07-2013 04:42 PM

It’s technique, more than likely, as results are possible with a plane at less than .001 of flat..

I suggest a bit more time with the jack plane before jointing, as it should be an essentially straight piece that’s hit with a few swipes of the Jointer just to clean up the edge.

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3554 posts in 1559 days


#14 posted 07-07-2013 04:46 PM

How long is the board in question?
From a mechanical perspective, many hand planes are too short to really flatten a long board. A huge hand plane might be 12-18” long. Compare that to a 76” power jointer.
Imagine using a 12” long power jointer, and expecting a flat and straight edge.
I think there are techniques that can improve hand planing, however the physics of it will always be limited compared to a power jointer.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View unbob's profile

unbob

466 posts in 649 days


#15 posted 07-07-2013 06:12 PM

Often a #5 will do a much better job then a #8.
A #5 likely has much less twist and dips in the sole then a much longer #8.
The longer the plane the more its bound to be untrue. Each swipe induces the planes as is condition error to the board.
A very hard problem to deal with even for a well equipped machine shop. The planes are thin castings, and hard to fixure or clamp into milling machines, or surface grinding machines, without distortion from just that step.
Sanding the planes sole is a very poor method-often called lapping in woodworking circles.

showing 1 through 15 of 21 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase