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Forum topic by gfadvm posted 07-05-2013 08:47 PM 2106 views 0 times favorited 29 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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gfadvm

11543 posts in 1442 days


07-05-2013 08:47 PM

My wife has a 3×6’ mirror over her bathroom sink that she wants me to build a “frame” for. It goes from wall to wall so she wants a 2” wide frame glued to the face of the mirror. I have no clue what to adhere it with. Epoxy, silicone caulk, construction adhesive, or???

Apparently she saw this idea on some home improvement show and decided it would look good. I’ll probably use walnut 2”x5/8” with half lap corners.

Any suggestions appreciated.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm


29 replies so far

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

15506 posts in 1090 days


#1 posted 07-05-2013 08:51 PM

Silicone would give the wood some ability to move

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it.

View Jeff in Huntersville's profile

Jeff in Huntersville

402 posts in 1947 days


#2 posted 07-05-2013 08:51 PM

Silicone? That would allow for some expansion and contraction. Plus not too hard to remove if you ever wanted to.

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gfadvm

11543 posts in 1442 days


#3 posted 07-05-2013 09:02 PM

And it should be strong enough to keep the frame from falling off? I really can’t clamp this. I’ll just have to hold it while the adhesive sets up. Sound OK ?

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Straightbowed's profile

Straightbowed

717 posts in 1050 days


#4 posted 07-05-2013 09:40 PM

just put a rabbet in the back of the frame and set the glass in it then then put some strips in it to hold the mirror I guess, thats how I would do it, then mount it to the wall with cleats I think, that would be strong don’t you thinks big operation as always lotsa work as always no fun french cleats that is

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

View Nomad62's profile

Nomad62

726 posts in 1710 days


#5 posted 07-05-2013 09:42 PM

Silicone gasket maker (automotive type) sticks well to glass, but I’ve found nothing that lasts forever; everything seems to work its way loose. Could you widen it a little, extending it over the edge of the glass to screw into the wall studs? You can also adhere it with super glue (2-3 well placed spots) that will quickly set to hold it while whichever glue you use (if you use glue) sets up.

-- Power tools put us ahead of the monkeys

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jdmaher

300 posts in 1332 days


#6 posted 07-05-2013 09:54 PM

Why does the wood have to be fastened to the glass? Do you have wall space above and below the mirror? Or even, only above?

If you are just making a decorative frame around an already mounted mirror – so long as you have some wall space above (and/or below) – you should be able fasten the frame to the wall, not the glass.

That is, the frame sides would lie flat on the glass. The top and/or bottom pieces of the frame would be thicker than the side pieces (by the thicknes of the glass), with a rabbet for the portion that covers the glass. Then just screw the un-rabbeted portion to studs (and plug the screw holes).

-- Jim Maher, Illinois

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vonhagen

498 posts in 1117 days


#7 posted 07-05-2013 10:07 PM

andy take some 1 inch brads and use them as a drill bit and put in the mirror and scribe a line arond then using the the nail drill holes along the line and when fitting the mirror slightly bend the nails not to hit the exposed silver nitrate. in the old days that was the norm. this way you can easily remove the mirror if need be. they didnt have silicon in the old days and even some tin pressed in with a clamp will work. some times we need to go back in time and look how things were done and not loose those ways.

-- no matter what size job big or small do a job right or don't do it at all.

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shipwright

5315 posts in 1550 days


#8 posted 07-05-2013 10:16 PM

I made all the cabinets for our kitchen. Many have large glass panels. After consulting with the glass supplier I made the door frames with a rebate exactly the thickness of the glass deep. They dropped the glass in flush adhered with silicon. They have no stops and look great from the back and haven’t moved or loosened in nine years.

+1 on the silicon.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

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vonhagen

498 posts in 1117 days


#9 posted 07-05-2013 10:22 PM

@shipwright, what is the life of silicon? yes i know its the way things are done now but what are old ships windows held in with to stand the test of time and ocean?

-- no matter what size job big or small do a job right or don't do it at all.

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vonhagen

498 posts in 1117 days


#10 posted 07-05-2013 10:25 PM

if i wanted a sealed window i might have used hot wax as it does move and seals canning jars.

-- no matter what size job big or small do a job right or don't do it at all.

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vonhagen

498 posts in 1117 days


#11 posted 07-05-2013 10:28 PM

but it will slide.

-- no matter what size job big or small do a job right or don't do it at all.

View Straightbowed's profile

Straightbowed

717 posts in 1050 days


#12 posted 07-05-2013 10:40 PM

oh so your gonna glue the mirror to the wall then frame it I see said the blind man, good luck I didn’t know what was goin on, sounds like a good idea, mirrors are heavy though it should work

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

View Jesse.R's profile

Jesse.R

50 posts in 1677 days


#13 posted 07-06-2013 12:09 AM

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

11543 posts in 1442 days


#14 posted 07-06-2013 12:28 AM

OK. Looks like silicone got the most votes. I really didn’t want to stick the frame to the glass but have no space on either side and no space below mirror.

I appreciate the input from you all.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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Boxguy

1543 posts in 1020 days


#15 posted 07-06-2013 01:41 AM

Andy, don’t forget to finish the back side of the frame. The back side will show in a reflection when you put the mirror against the wood. I always just hung the mirror with clamps leaving about an inch of space around it and nailed the frame to the wall over the mirror. I cut a dado in the back of the frame to give the mirror a little room. The trick is to run the mirror wall to wall or on some stud in the process.

-- Big Al in IN

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