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Forum topic by bbqking posted 10-28-2008 01:48 AM 1406 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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328 posts in 3751 days

10-28-2008 01:48 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question

I know this sounds odd, but I have spent the last 4-5 days deep cleaning my shop. I have completed a couple of runs and have no new orders right now. My goal is to clean up everything back to “square one” and build a couple of original pieces that have been in my head for awhile. Here is my question- One of my benches is topped with 1/2” sandply, with 1 coat of satin poly as a finish. I have totally cleaned it off and wiped it down w/tack rags. It is very dry and needs some help to bring it back to life. I am thinking about wiping it down with boiled linseed oil. Do you think that the linseed oil over the existing finish would work? Should I just reapply more poly? I don’t know, do you guys? bbqKing.

-- bbqKing, Lawrenceville

13 replies so far

View gator9t9's profile


331 posts in 3732 days

#1 posted 10-28-2008 01:51 AM

GREAT QUESTION I know someone out there has the answer…...........Not me ,,,but someone …..
Thanks for this great Question


-- Mike in Bonney Lake " If you are real real real good your whole life, You 'll be buried in a curly maple coffin when you die."

View SawDustnSplinters's profile


321 posts in 3809 days

#2 posted 10-28-2008 02:43 AM

Not sure about it, cause I have always heard about it being ok to use it the other way around….ie Poly over BLO….but if it is a work bench why not try the Minwax version of tung oil which has poly in it and lightly sand it first with 220 and also between coats or something…

-- Frank, Dallas,TX , , “I have a REALLY BIG chainsaw”

View teenagewoodworker's profile


2727 posts in 3796 days

#3 posted 10-28-2008 02:47 AM

i would go with shellac. the blo won’t work because the surface is sealed and blo needs to soak in. the poly might work but the poly you have on there is cured so the poly probably won’t stick well. scuff sand the surface with 400 and a coat of shellac would bring it back. if i were you though i would think of putting some hardboard or melamine on it because that will probably be better.

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35125 posts in 4428 days

#4 posted 10-28-2008 03:01 AM

I agree with TAW. The blo won’t soak into the surface, unless you asnd the polly off. I agree, with his suggestion to use shellac.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware soon moving to Virginia †

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Dan'um Style

14173 posts in 4011 days

#5 posted 10-28-2008 03:45 AM

shellac it !

-- keeping myself entertained ... Humor and fun lubricate the brain

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John Ormsby

1288 posts in 3765 days

#6 posted 10-28-2008 04:57 AM

Could you put a piece of white or almond melamine on top of the ply? I prefer to use melamine for tops as they are very easy to clean and make it easier to see the pieces of wood or whatever material being worked.

-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca

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23997 posts in 3879 days

#7 posted 10-28-2008 06:11 AM

King there is nothing like the natural look for the shop. My advice is don’t make it too pretty.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

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Dan'um Style

14173 posts in 4011 days

#8 posted 10-28-2008 06:21 AM

Green paint with a little net … ping pong table

-- keeping myself entertained ... Humor and fun lubricate the brain

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1580 posts in 3789 days

#9 posted 10-28-2008 06:22 PM

Since I use my benches for clamping and gluing, I apply paste wax to the finish, and re-new it from time to time. Glue, paint, and varnish will not stick.

-- "Heaven is North of the Bridge"

View Kindlingmaker's profile


2656 posts in 3554 days

#10 posted 10-28-2008 08:37 PM

Its a WORK bench…

-- Never board, always knotty, lots of growth rings

View bbqking's profile


328 posts in 3751 days

#11 posted 10-29-2008 01:34 AM

Grumpy- Don’t worry, it’ll never be pretty. Every project is some more war wounds. It just finally needs some attention. bbqKing.

-- bbqKing, Lawrenceville

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23997 posts in 3879 days

#12 posted 10-29-2008 04:35 AM

Thats the spirit King. You need those war wounds to make it look like a shop.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

View mmh's profile


3677 posts in 3750 days

#13 posted 10-29-2008 05:07 AM

Referring to “Understanding Wood Finishing” by Fob Flexner, (referred by my wood scientist friend), I would say to continue your finish surface with the same type of finish already applied. Poly on poly as the BLO will not be as tough and I imagine may not penetrate or dry as well. It may even turn gooky since it will take longer to cure. The Minwax Tung/poly mixture is fine for lightly used surfaces but it’s not as tough as a pure polyeurethane finish. Personnaly, I prefer the Minwax mixture myself as I like how the oil penetrates the wood and gives it life, and the polyeurethane part of the formula hardens nicely, but again, not as tough as pure poly. Polyeurethane gives a plastic look that I’m not completely fond of (well, it is a plastic, isn’t it?), but it’s durable. So for a shop bench, I would continue with the satin poly.

8iowa has an interesting concept for his bench’s finish. So, it also depends on your use of this bench.

-- "They who dream by day are cognizant of many things which escape those who dream only by night." ~ Edgar Allan Poe

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