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Forum topic by steve54uk posted 422 days ago 1310 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View steve54uk's profile

steve54uk

11 posts in 443 days


422 days ago

Sorry to be a pain guys, but having started my woodworking up again I’ve shifted to some power tools. Of which one is my acquisition of a Record BS10 Bandsaw, but when I cut any hardwood the cut is ridged!
What am I doing wrong? Have I not got it set up correctly? Any help would be appreciated as I don’t want to think this was a bad idea!
Thanks.
Steve

-- Steve, Aylesbury UK


10 replies so far

View nailbanger2's profile

nailbanger2

960 posts in 1778 days


#1 posted 422 days ago

Here’s a good place to start. And from your tagline, you probably aren’t celebrating the 4th of July like we are!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JowHmdihl-Q

-- Wish I were Norm's Nephew

View Straightbowed's profile

Straightbowed

717 posts in 933 days


#2 posted 422 days ago

better watch some videos lots of techniques and a few things to buy to saw good quality work or you can make some jigs

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10740 posts in 1325 days


#3 posted 422 days ago

You will never get as clean/smooth a cut with the bandsaw as the tablesaw but the right blade and tool set up will go a long ways in improving your cut.

Mark Dujinski’s Bandsaw Book is a great reference that helped me a lot when I first got a bandsaw.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2950 posts in 921 days


#4 posted 422 days ago

I’d get a quality blade, set the blade guides with about 1/8 inch clearance on either side of the blade, set the bearing 1/8 inch back of the blade and let the blade cut, don’t push it too hard. Also I’d keep a tight blade with no more than a 1/4 to a 1/2 inch play from side to side.
A lot of BS cutting is experience. If you are cutting curves, it will take some practice to keep the wood aligned with the blade while you’re cutting. Go slow but keep moving, ridges happen when you stop or move the work right or left while cutting.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Chris208's profile

Chris208

174 posts in 905 days


#5 posted 422 days ago

Ridges will happen, it’s a bandsaw, for gods sake.

I use the set up technique shown in this video:

http://youtu.be/wGbZqWac0jU

I have owned a harbor freight 14 inch bandsaw and currently own the classic 14 inch delta saw, and this technique worked brilliantly on both saws. No drift with a sharp blade.

Russell is giving you bad advice by telling you to keep your guides an eighth from the blade. What you want is for the side guides (bearings or blocks) to engage with any side to side play, and for the thrust bearings to engage as soon as wood hits the front of the blade.

Try it. You’ll be very pleased.

View Picken5's profile

Picken5

119 posts in 1326 days


#6 posted 422 days ago

Steve—I also experienced ridges in my cuts with my bandsaw. I checked and double-checked my saw’s setup. I installed a quality blade (several times), but was still plagued by ridges. My “aha” moment came when I realized I was trying to cut too fast. When I started pushing the wood through the blade slower—and let the blade do the work—my cuts got way smoother. Like Russell, I keep my blade tight, but I do set the thrust bearing so its just barely touching the back of the blade. I also keep the blade guides closer to the blade than Russell does – but definitely not touching the blade. But I absolutely agree with Russell—don’t move the wood through the blade any faster than it can cut. Ridges also happen when the blade’s teeth can’t move the chips out of the cut fast enough.

-- Howard - "Time spent making sawdust is not deducted from one's lifetime." - old Scottish proverb

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

481 posts in 834 days


#7 posted 422 days ago

>> set the blade guides with about 1/8 inch clearance on either side of the blade, set the bearing 1/8 inch back of the blade <<

1/8” is WAY too far.. guide blocks should be as close as possible without actually touching. And the thrust bearing should be close enough that it doesn’t touch when you spin the blade, but makes contact with just the slightest amount of back pressure against the blade. One of the best videos you can watch is this “band saw clinic” session with Alex Snodgrass of Carter products (don’t worry, not a sales pitch, just great info for a perfect setup):

Cheers,
Brad

Edit: Whoops.. guess that is the same video and advice that Chris posted :) I guess great minds do think alike! And like Chris, I get great drift free cuts on my Delta using this method.

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View flwoodie's profile

flwoodie

26 posts in 466 days


#8 posted 422 days ago

That same video by Alex Snodgrass is the same one that I watched when I first got started. It is the best best video in my opinion.
Good Luck

View steve54uk's profile

steve54uk

11 posts in 443 days


#9 posted 421 days ago

Guys, you have been great with all your suggestions and tips, but above all for boosting my confidence.
A big THANK YOU.
I have already started putting into practice one or two changes and then testing them and everything seems to be heading in the right direction.
Nailbanger, thanks for your youtube link and yes we Brits don’t celebrate 4th July! Not sure we celebrate anything??
Thanks again to everyone’s contribution.
Steve

-- Steve, Aylesbury UK

View Sandra's profile

Sandra

4291 posts in 710 days


#10 posted 421 days ago

+1 on the video Unix posted. That’s the one that helped me. I also had to increase my tension more than I expected to get rid of the ridges.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

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