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Forum topic by Mark posted 384 days ago 465 views 1 time favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Mark

372 posts in 570 days


384 days ago

I’m just about finished a Mission style Cherry end table. I used 1 coat of “teak oil” and 5 coats of water based satin Varithan, sanded with 220g in between. I keep thinking there should be a final coating. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks. Mark

-- Mark


9 replies so far

View Finisherman's profile

Finisherman

188 posts in 445 days


#1 posted 384 days ago

Have you considered rubbing out the finish? This is relatively easy to do and involves using some combination of 0000 steel wool, wet-dry sandpaper and or rubbing compounds to remove any defects in the surface and adjust the sheen. Bob Flexner’s book entitled Understanding Wood Finishing provides a detailed explanation of the rubbing out process. Practice the rubbing out process on a scrap board prior to trying it on your project.

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pintodeluxe

3260 posts in 1408 days


#2 posted 384 days ago

Sounds like you did okay.
I am not a fan of water based products, mostly because of the somewhat lifeless look they impart.
If you are not happy with it, try oil based stain, then sprayed lacquer on your next project.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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CharlieM1958

15639 posts in 2814 days


#3 posted 384 days ago

When you say you keep thinking there should be a final coating, do you mean you are just thinking it needs something else, or are you not satisfied with the actual appearance? You certainly don’t need another coating for any practical reason. Anything else you do at this point would simply be to change the look.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

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Clint Searl

1379 posts in 956 days


#4 posted 384 days ago

What makes you think you ain’t done?

-- Clint Searl.............We deserve what we tolerate

View Mark's profile

Mark

372 posts in 570 days


#5 posted 384 days ago

Fist off. Thank you for your response gents.
Finisherman…I’ve picked up some 0000 SW ad some 350 & 450 WD sand paper and will try that.
Pintodeluxe…I like the water based varnish because it dries so fast. Not having access to a spray booth I’m kinda stuck with the dirty old garage.
Charlie &Clint…I’m trying to get away from the brushed look. I’m hoping a combination of the fine sand paper, the 0000 and the furniture wax will change the appearance for the better.

-- Mark

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CharlieM1958

15639 posts in 2814 days


#6 posted 384 days ago

If it looks brushed on, I totally understand. I’ve had pretty good success applying the final coat or two of water-based finish with a foam brush. You might give it a try. Also, I would recommend experimenting with wipe-on oil-based finishes as well. They take more coats, but the coats dry fairly quickly because they’re thin, and the finish never looks brushed.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

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Finisherman

188 posts in 445 days


#7 posted 383 days ago

450 grit sandpaper sounds like it might be a little bit too aggressive. I’d try 800 grit wet-dry paper first and see if that does the job. You don’t want to cut through the finish. Also, you might want to use a bit of soapy water with your sandpaper and steel wool. This reduces scratching and keeps the paper from loading up too much. And yes, rubbing out the finish will dramatically improve its look.

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Clint Searl

1379 posts in 956 days


#8 posted 383 days ago

Avoid steel wool. Flatten the finish with 320, 400, 600 SiliconCarbide paper on a hard rubber block lubed with soapy water. Finish by rubbing out with auto polishing compound. Then paste wax if you want.

-- Clint Searl.............We deserve what we tolerate

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Finisherman

188 posts in 445 days


#9 posted 383 days ago

You’re right, Clint. I’m so used to using shellac and solvent based lacquer that I forgot about the potential problem with steel wool where waterborne finishes are concerned. Specifically, if you use steel wool between coats of waterborne finish, you’re likely to get black spots in your finish. This is because any stray shards of steel wool that are left behind will rust upon contact with water. In that case, your only recourse will involve stripping the surface, bleaching with oxalic acid and refinishing. Not fun! As a rule, use ultra-fine synthetic pads in place of steel wool with waterborne finishes. Once again, good catch, Clint.

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