Problem with new SawStop - watch this and tell me if it is normal

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Forum topic by lkgordon posted 07-03-2013 06:58 AM 9747 views 0 times favorited 47 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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3 posts in 1789 days

07-03-2013 06:58 AM

Topic tags/keywords: sawstop table saw arbor assembly movement

I recently purchased a new SawStop PCS 1.75hp. I am alarmed by the amount of left/right play in the arbor assembly. I can wiggle the arbor flange back and forth about 0.040”. Obviously this creates problems with keeping the blade aligned parallel to the miter slots. The blade needs to be parallel to the miter slots within about 0.002”.

I made a video of the situation; please view and tell me if you think this is a bad enough that I should press the issue with SawStop?

So far my response from SawStop is that it is not alarming and as long as the saw is cutting fine there is nothing to worry about. So far the saw is cutting okay but I worry that over the long haul I will have problems keeping the blade aligned parallel to the miter slots/fence. As you can see in the video once the arbor assembly is moved it doesn’t always spring back to the same place.



47 replies so far

View NiteWalker's profile


2737 posts in 2576 days

#1 posted 07-03-2013 11:29 AM

Doesn’t seem right to me…

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View Buckethead's profile


3194 posts in 1868 days

#2 posted 07-03-2013 11:59 AM

No indeed. And I have been drooling over these for a while now. So far I have made lesser purchases which keep my war chest too small to pull the trigger on the sawstop purchase.

The brake is what I find so absolutely poetic. That said, I expect any saw which costs more than a thousand federal reserve notes to cut true when properly adjusted.

Wiggling arbor does not seem like an appealing feature. I already have that on my ryobi.

-- Support woodworking hand models. Buy me a sawstop.

View ajosephg's profile


1880 posts in 3560 days

#3 posted 07-03-2013 01:17 PM

Seems like you’re applying quite a bit of pressure, which is flexing the mounts. Normal operation doesn’t apply much sidewise pressure, so I’d say it’s normal, i.e. the way it was designed. I’d say: “Go and Saw Forth!”

-- Joe

View a1Jim's profile


117091 posts in 3577 days

#4 posted 07-03-2013 01:22 PM

Cut some wood with it and see what you think.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View crank49's profile


4030 posts in 2970 days

#5 posted 07-03-2013 01:25 PM

Check with SawStop, or the dealer where you bought it.
They are the ones with the incentive to fix this if it is not normal.
If they do not satisfy your concern, then post it here and your voice will be much stronger.

View helluvawreck's profile


31096 posts in 2866 days

#6 posted 07-03-2013 01:29 PM

Not knowing exactly how the saw stop is built I couldn’t say for sure. If I was standing there at the saw I could give you an honest opinion. However, for your own protection, I sure would hold on to that video no matter what you decide to do.

helluvawreck aka Charles

-- helluvawreck aka Charles,

View OggieOglethorpe's profile


1276 posts in 2110 days

#7 posted 07-03-2013 01:29 PM

Have you tried this on other saws? I haven’t, and I’ve never heard of anyone else “testing” this, so I can’t comment on it.

I second Jim’s recommendation to cut some wood. When you think about the forces applied during a cut, I’m betting it’s meaningless.

View johnstoneb's profile


2915 posts in 2172 days

#8 posted 07-03-2013 01:36 PM

Your applying pressure in an area that under use will not have any pressure on it. That won’t move under use. If you had .040 endplay in the arbor shaft and bearings that would be a cause for concern. The only time you might have the kind of pressure you are applying and on the components you are applying it at is if you are forcing wood through on a fence that is really far out of square to the blade.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View Bluepine38's profile


3379 posts in 3085 days

#9 posted 07-03-2013 01:58 PM

That might not cause a problem, but neither my old 8” Delta homecraft table saw, or my 1949 10” Delta
Cabinet saw have that much play. I guess to put in the fancy brake and blade dropping capability, they had
to make it a little less sturdy. You can not have everything.

-- As ever, Gus-the 79 yr young apprentice carpenter

View poopiekat's profile


4355 posts in 3734 days

#10 posted 07-03-2013 04:19 PM

Although there is end-play, you seemed to be concerned with keeping the blade aligned parallel to the miter slots. Although there clearly is .040 of movement, I don’t see where parallelism is a problem. The variable distance between blade and fence is certainly an issue.

-- Einstein: "The intuitive mind is a sacred gift, and the rational mind is a faithful servant. We have created a society that honors the servant and has forgotten the gift." I'm Poopiekat!!

View Von's profile


238 posts in 2213 days

#11 posted 07-03-2013 04:49 PM

I used to work for a large internet retail store that sold books, dvds, tools…..heck almost anything…. We had a sales rep from sawstop come out and demo their stuff. I asked them about this very thing, the side to side endplay on the arbor freaked me out when I saw it too. The answer, was that suddenly stopping a blade creates a hefty amount of torque and that power has to go somewhere! By giving the assembly the ability to flex ever so slightly, the system works. In normal operation, you rarely notice the travel, if ever at all. That was there claim anyway, and it held true on the equipment they were showing off that day. The rep did say that he would rather half to check for square after a sudden-stop event, versus looking around for bits of fingers instead. I think I would agree! hehe We fed that silly saw an awful lot of hot dogs that day.

View HorizontalMike's profile


7757 posts in 2913 days

#12 posted 07-03-2013 04:51 PM

I had always heard that if you can keep your accuracy to 1/64” then all things should pretty much be OK as far as most assemblies/glue-ups, however that 0.040” is nearly THREE times that error. IMO, for cabinetmakers that is too much, but for general contractors (and this is a contractor’s saw) this is probably fine.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View poopiekat's profile


4355 posts in 3734 days

#13 posted 07-03-2013 05:03 PM

Perhaps we should be as concerned about the OP, who flies in with his first-ever post on the site, diving right into an issue with a saw. I’m not a fan of the technology myself, but I wonder about ulterior motives, sometimes.

Heck, I true up all saw cuts with planes anyway, where it counts. A $100 relic table saw can have less arbor run-out than a new one.

-- Einstein: "The intuitive mind is a sacred gift, and the rational mind is a faithful servant. We have created a society that honors the servant and has forgotten the gift." I'm Poopiekat!!

View Tennessee's profile


2873 posts in 2514 days

#14 posted 07-03-2013 05:47 PM

poopiekat, always looking for a conspiracy…Just kidding. It does make you wonder, how did he know to look for that play if it was cutting fine? How do you know to put 10-20 lbs. of lateral pressure on a configuration if it is new and original cuts were fine? What makes someone test out the movement of a basically stationary system with a dial indicator on a fixed part of the frame? And what Von says makes sense. All that torque in stopping has to go somewhere, possibly that is designed into the saw to prevent castings and mounting bolts from cracking.

I think if I had bad cuts, I would just call Sawstop. If it cuts fine, what the heck, keep on building.

-- Tsunami Guitars and Custom Woodworking, Cleveland, TN

View ajosephg's profile


1880 posts in 3560 days

#15 posted 07-03-2013 05:52 PM

Sawstop is purportedly the number one saw in terms of sales. If this was a problem, woodworkers would be groaning and moaning all over the place. This is the first time I have ever heard somebody mention it.

-- Joe

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