How to close this corner? need ideas.

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Forum topic by Loren posted 07-02-2013 04:26 PM 1039 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Loren's profile


7967 posts in 2740 days

07-02-2013 04:26 PM

This is a large “day bed” piece, almost done. It is
put together with mechanical fasteners and must
be disassembled and re-assembled on site.

The corner needs to be attached with mechanical
fasteners and you can see there are some gaps due
to twisting and/or imperfections in my assembly stage.
The piece is 90” x 100” so I hope you can grasp the
awkwardness of putting it together.

I can attach some sort of backing blocks to the corner
panel. Assuming I can just drive screws in there
is not an assumption I am willing to make since this
is solid wood and we are very close to the ends
and it has to hold up for a long time.

Bolt heads on the outside are acceptable.

I only really have one shot at choosing how to close
this joint.

I am going out for a run and maybe the brains here
can produce some ideas on how to close this joint
well with metal fasteners and blocks inside.

Any good ideas?


20 replies so far

View firefighterontheside's profile


10263 posts in 949 days

#1 posted 07-02-2013 04:55 PM

I think if you pre drill and countersink from the long board side at the angle to match the short board you will be able to get enough meat and havE it last. Use fairly long screws to get a lot of grip since its end grain. Assuming that’s a 12” board use about 5 screws to have them about 2 1/2” apart. That’s my thought anyway.

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.

View S4S's profile


2119 posts in 1773 days

#2 posted 07-02-2013 04:56 PM

Have you considered using hanger bolts with the blocks ? Maybe plugs to cover the nuts on the facing board , if they are less acceptable to the client than bolt heads ? Depending on how much counter bore depth you have to work with . . Just a thought ..

View CharlieM1958's profile


16143 posts in 3311 days

#3 posted 07-02-2013 05:09 PM

I would use short screws from the inside just to visually pull the joint closed, then reinforce the joint with some hefty glue blocks.

And if you really don’t mind exposed fastener heads on the outside, you could use a couple of 2×4 braces (top and bottom). Turn them with the 4” side horizontal and the ends cut to the same angle as the joint, but cut the whole brace about 1/2” short of a perfect fit. Fasten the braces from the outside with whatever type of screw you want, and tightening will draw the two sides tight to the corner piece.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Buckethead's profile


3121 posts in 961 days

#4 posted 07-02-2013 05:39 PM

Clamp it tight using framing members… If framing members run perpendicular then add a block. Screw (carefully, using appropriate size screws) from behind/inside.

-- Support woodworking hand models. Buy me a sawstop.

View oldnovice's profile


4668 posts in 2460 days

#5 posted 07-02-2013 06:31 PM

Why not just “trim” out over the joint with a couple of gapless strips then you can cover any method used to pull the joint together?

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View Loren's profile


7967 posts in 2740 days

#6 posted 07-02-2013 06:38 PM

Running, I came up with the idea of a pair of turnbuckles
with threaded rods pulling the sides in… I’m considering
all your suggestions too.

I may go buy a bunch of hardware for a few different
approaches and return what I don’t use.

Thanks everyone.


View RussellAP's profile


3052 posts in 1379 days

#7 posted 07-02-2013 06:52 PM

Small angle irons with small screws, maybe even a piano hinge. You’ll have to define the angle, but 4-6 of them total should do it fine.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View joeyinsouthaustin's profile


1286 posts in 1165 days

#8 posted 07-02-2013 07:13 PM

Like russllap’s idea, but a hinge, you can pull the pin from top or bottom, and install the pin to “Join” the peices.

-- Who is John Galt?

View RussellAP's profile


3052 posts in 1379 days

#9 posted 07-02-2013 07:21 PM

If you go with the angle iron idea, be sure to try and find 2” angle iron that has the bevel on the inside if they make them, else you’ll have to bend the iron a lot. Most metal won’t take bending 90 degree these days without breaking or losing all strength. A torch would come in handy for this.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View waho6o9's profile


6401 posts in 1669 days

#10 posted 07-03-2013 12:13 AM


View GrandpaLen's profile


1622 posts in 1365 days

#11 posted 07-03-2013 08:32 AM


Have you considered Kreg ‘Pocket Hole Screws’?

With the right length screws this should draw up tight and then after final assembly insert the plugs to finish off the face.

...just a thought.

Best Regards. – Grandpa Len.

-- Mother Nature should be proud of what you've done with her tree. - Len ...just north of a stone's throw from the oHIo, river that is, in So. Indiana.

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

5370 posts in 1421 days

#12 posted 07-03-2013 01:26 PM

I think you may have better luck “capping it” from the outside, with a backer block for fasteners….

option one

if the joints or fasteners are unsightly, cover them with vertical trim pieces….

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View Grandpa's profile


3246 posts in 1768 days

#13 posted 07-03-2013 01:58 PM

If it isn’t too late, I think it would look better with the corners mitered. This way there would be no end grain showing. Pocket hole screws should hold this fine like mentioned above. I have seen this done many time by cabinet makers. They build in their shop and deliver the cabinets. Same idea here.

View Bluepine38's profile


3223 posts in 2178 days

#14 posted 07-03-2013 02:11 PM

Glue and fasten a couple of blocks, one to each board and use countertop joining bolts, as your turnbuckles in
recesses made in the bocks before attaching. Unlike screws, these could be reused many times and easily
replaced if lost,

-- As ever, Gus-the 76 yr young apprentice carpenter

View Loren's profile


7967 posts in 2740 days

#15 posted 07-03-2013 02:58 PM

I solved the problem. I’ll post a picture later.


showing 1 through 15 of 20 replies

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