How to close this corner? need ideas.

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Forum topic by Loren posted 07-02-2013 04:26 PM 1352 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Loren's profile (online now)


10394 posts in 3646 days

07-02-2013 04:26 PM

This is a large “day bed” piece, almost done. It is
put together with mechanical fasteners and must
be disassembled and re-assembled on site.

The corner needs to be attached with mechanical
fasteners and you can see there are some gaps due
to twisting and/or imperfections in my assembly stage.
The piece is 90” x 100” so I hope you can grasp the
awkwardness of putting it together.

I can attach some sort of backing blocks to the corner
panel. Assuming I can just drive screws in there
is not an assumption I am willing to make since this
is solid wood and we are very close to the ends
and it has to hold up for a long time.

Bolt heads on the outside are acceptable.

I only really have one shot at choosing how to close
this joint.

I am going out for a run and maybe the brains here
can produce some ideas on how to close this joint
well with metal fasteners and blocks inside.

Any good ideas?

20 replies so far

View firefighterontheside's profile


18178 posts in 1855 days

#1 posted 07-02-2013 04:55 PM

I think if you pre drill and countersink from the long board side at the angle to match the short board you will be able to get enough meat and havE it last. Use fairly long screws to get a lot of grip since its end grain. Assuming that’s a 12” board use about 5 screws to have them about 2 1/2” apart. That’s my thought anyway.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View S4S's profile


2118 posts in 2679 days

#2 posted 07-02-2013 04:56 PM

Have you considered using hanger bolts with the blocks ? Maybe plugs to cover the nuts on the facing board , if they are less acceptable to the client than bolt heads ? Depending on how much counter bore depth you have to work with . . Just a thought ..

View CharlieM1958's profile


16274 posts in 4217 days

#3 posted 07-02-2013 05:09 PM

I would use short screws from the inside just to visually pull the joint closed, then reinforce the joint with some hefty glue blocks.

And if you really don’t mind exposed fastener heads on the outside, you could use a couple of 2×4 braces (top and bottom). Turn them with the 4” side horizontal and the ends cut to the same angle as the joint, but cut the whole brace about 1/2” short of a perfect fit. Fasten the braces from the outside with whatever type of screw you want, and tightening will draw the two sides tight to the corner piece.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Buckethead's profile


3194 posts in 1867 days

#4 posted 07-02-2013 05:39 PM

Clamp it tight using framing members… If framing members run perpendicular then add a block. Screw (carefully, using appropriate size screws) from behind/inside.

-- Support woodworking hand models. Buy me a sawstop.

View oldnovice's profile


6850 posts in 3366 days

#5 posted 07-02-2013 06:31 PM

Why not just “trim” out over the joint with a couple of gapless strips then you can cover any method used to pull the joint together?

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View Loren's profile (online now)


10394 posts in 3646 days

#6 posted 07-02-2013 06:38 PM

Running, I came up with the idea of a pair of turnbuckles
with threaded rods pulling the sides in… I’m considering
all your suggestions too.

I may go buy a bunch of hardware for a few different
approaches and return what I don’t use.

Thanks everyone.

View RussellAP's profile


3104 posts in 2285 days

#7 posted 07-02-2013 06:52 PM

Small angle irons with small screws, maybe even a piano hinge. You’ll have to define the angle, but 4-6 of them total should do it fine.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View joeyinsouthaustin's profile


1294 posts in 2071 days

#8 posted 07-02-2013 07:13 PM

Like russllap’s idea, but a hinge, you can pull the pin from top or bottom, and install the pin to “Join” the peices.

-- Who is John Galt?

View RussellAP's profile


3104 posts in 2285 days

#9 posted 07-02-2013 07:21 PM

If you go with the angle iron idea, be sure to try and find 2” angle iron that has the bevel on the inside if they make them, else you’ll have to bend the iron a lot. Most metal won’t take bending 90 degree these days without breaking or losing all strength. A torch would come in handy for this.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View waho6o9's profile


8190 posts in 2575 days

#10 posted 07-03-2013 12:13 AM


View GrandpaLen's profile


1650 posts in 2271 days

#11 posted 07-03-2013 08:32 AM


Have you considered Kreg ‘Pocket Hole Screws’?

With the right length screws this should draw up tight and then after final assembly insert the plugs to finish off the face.

...just a thought.

Best Regards. – Grandpa Len.

-- Mother Nature should be proud of what you've done with her tree. - Len ...just north of a stone's throw from the oHIo, river that is, in So. Indiana.

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

8046 posts in 2327 days

#12 posted 07-03-2013 01:26 PM

I think you may have better luck “capping it” from the outside, with a backer block for fasteners….

option one

if the joints or fasteners are unsightly, cover them with vertical trim pieces….

-- It’s the knowledge in your head, skill in your hands and motivation to create in you heart that makes you a woodworker. - Mainiac Matt

View Grandpa's profile


3259 posts in 2674 days

#13 posted 07-03-2013 01:58 PM

If it isn’t too late, I think it would look better with the corners mitered. This way there would be no end grain showing. Pocket hole screws should hold this fine like mentioned above. I have seen this done many time by cabinet makers. They build in their shop and deliver the cabinets. Same idea here.

View Bluepine38's profile


3379 posts in 3084 days

#14 posted 07-03-2013 02:11 PM

Glue and fasten a couple of blocks, one to each board and use countertop joining bolts, as your turnbuckles in
recesses made in the bocks before attaching. Unlike screws, these could be reused many times and easily
replaced if lost,

-- As ever, Gus-the 79 yr young apprentice carpenter

View Loren's profile (online now)


10394 posts in 3646 days

#15 posted 07-03-2013 02:58 PM

I solved the problem. I’ll post a picture later.

showing 1 through 15 of 20 replies

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