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Forum topic by coletrain posted 10-27-2008 08:30 PM 7980 views 3 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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coletrain

20 posts in 2296 days


10-27-2008 08:30 PM

Hi guys,

I have been looking for a thin kerf radial arm saw blade for our Dewalt MBC that was built in the 50’s I believe. I was told RAS need a special kind of blade. The saw seems under powered when cutting and I’m sure a thin kerf would help. Any suggestions would help. Oh yea Money is an object.

Thanks

Brett


13 replies so far

View Llarian's profile

Llarian

128 posts in 2302 days


#1 posted 10-27-2008 08:52 PM

Technically, you should have a blade with a negative hook angle to prevent the blade from climbing the workpiece. A thin kerf isn’t a bad idea for the underpowered (1 1/2hp) RAS as well.

That said, my main RAS blade is a Freud thin kerf cutoff blade, which works great and never experiences any climbing issues as long as you move the saw very slowly and make sure the workpiece is secure against the fence. You should never be placing any part of your body in the path of the blade with an RAS anyways, and usually they will stall out and pop the breaker before they cause any problems anyways if they climb.

Now, if you’re ripping with the RAS, my only advice is don’t, get a tablesaw. :P

-- Dylan Vanderhoof - General hobbiest and reluctant penmaker. http://llarian.etsy.com

View Blake's profile

Blake

3437 posts in 2569 days


#2 posted 10-28-2008 06:08 PM

Like Dylan said, blades on a radial arm saw must have a zero or negative hook angle on the teeth. This means if you were to draw a line from the center of the blade out to the edge, that the angle of the tooth would either be perfectly in line (zero) or raked slightly backward (negative angle). If the teeth are raked forward even one degree (like MOST blades) it could “climb” toward you and send the powerhead/blade flying in your direction.

This is the blade I recommend: the LU91R. I think this is what I got for mine. The 8 1/2” was about $90, but well worth it. Ultra fine cross cuts, thin kerf increases power, negative hook angle keeps it safe, and non-stick coating keeps it clean.

Click for details

-- Happy woodworking! http://www.openarmsphotography.com

View coletrain's profile

coletrain

20 posts in 2296 days


#3 posted 10-28-2008 07:50 PM

Would it be possible to go with a smaller blade. Would that help with the power problem? Im not sure if that extra half inch would affect the performance of the saw. But thank you Blake and Dylan for your replies. This site is great.

Brett

View sIKE's profile

sIKE

1271 posts in 2449 days


#4 posted 10-28-2008 09:57 PM

I purchased a blade for my RAS reciently:

Freud LU91M010 10-Inch 60 Tooth

Got it off of Amazon for $54, it does not have the protective red coating which you can get from Amazon for an additional $10. It works great and has reduced the tendency to climb as it cuts. If you are a top shelf kind of guy then look at Forests ChopMaster blade.

Hope this helps!

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

View Llarian's profile

Llarian

128 posts in 2302 days


#5 posted 10-29-2008 01:50 AM

You could get a smaller blade, but I wouldn’t, you’d lose a lot of potential workpiece thickness. sIKE’s reccomendation is probably the best inexpensive blade for your RAS. The LU91R010 would be an excellent choice as well. (I use all Freud blades, but the Forrest ones are always amazingly highly rated, so that’d be a good choice too)

You’ll be fine with a 10” thin kerf, just make sure you’re not cutting too quickly. My 1 1/2 hp saw happily plows through 10/4 rock maple and purpleheart with a freud TK blade.

-- Dylan Vanderhoof - General hobbiest and reluctant penmaker. http://llarian.etsy.com

View pinkiewerewolf's profile

pinkiewerewolf

42 posts in 2420 days


#6 posted 01-15-2009 03:54 AM

Great thread.
I just received a 1950’s DeWalt RAS that could use a newer blade.
Thanks.

-- John, Nor-Cal, shopsmith.net/forums

View Ampeater's profile

Ampeater

396 posts in 2442 days


#7 posted 01-15-2009 04:51 PM

I use a Woodworker 1 blade. It was designed for RAS.

-- "A goal without a plan is a wish."

View parkerdude's profile

parkerdude

167 posts in 2147 days


#8 posted 07-01-2009 05:17 PM

I bought an “Irwin” 60 tooth blade that was partnered with a 24 tooth rip blade. Both were thin kerf and on sale for $29.99. I don’t even use the rip blade, I get VERY smooth cross cuts and rip cuts!

YMMV

later,

-- dust control

View HokieMojo's profile

HokieMojo

2103 posts in 2423 days


#9 posted 10-19-2010 05:50 PM

I know this is old, but I found this thread while researching and thought I’d contribute in case someone else finds it. Apparently the Woodworker 1 is the gold standard for saw blades. The key is to call and ask specifically for the TCP frind as opposed to the ATB grind. I don’t own it yet, but this is what my research tells me, as the ATB is probably for the table saw.

I’m yet to decide on whether I’ll spend more on my blad than I did on my saw. Just thought I’d post this in case anyone else is digging.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5517 posts in 2071 days


#10 posted 10-19-2010 08:31 PM

In addition to choosing thin kerf, using a low tooth count will also improve the saw’s efficiency, but unfortunately there aren’t many low tooth count blades with low hook angles. Blades for a RAS don’t necessarily have to have negative hook angle, but the hook should at least be very low….up to roughly +5° should be fine and will help increase the number of options.

What size are you looking for? In 10”, the Infinity 010-060, Forrest WWI, CMT 205.060.10, and Freud LU91 are all great choices, but they’re all $50+. A blade designed for cutting non-ferrous metals may also fit the bill. A blade with a Hi-ATB grind or ATB grind will give the lowest amount of tearout, a triple chip grind (TCG) will be the most durable.

edit:...I just realized this is a resurrected thread, but the info is still valid for anyone looking for a RAS or SCMS blade.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Dan's profile

Dan

3543 posts in 1575 days


#11 posted 10-19-2010 10:26 PM

I also use a Woodworker 1 blade and find it to work really well. I have a smaller RAS and have not had many problems with power when using the blade (if its sharp)

-- Dan - "Collector of Hand Planes"

View jonesy's profile

jonesy

2 posts in 2494 days


#12 posted 04-03-2013 08:38 PM

some time ago I bought what appears to be a 1958 + or – DeWalt RAS in very very good condition thinking it was a 10” unit…I was surprised to learn it would not accept a 10” blade…Can anyone tell me when DeWalt started to make a 10” blade model..My saw has the ’’speckled green’’ finish which might help anyone determine the era of it’s manufacture.
It will not accept anything larger than a 9” blade…Jonesy

View shampeon's profile

shampeon

1378 posts in 878 days


#13 posted 04-03-2013 09:58 PM

Jonesy, you probably have an MBF, a 9” model. They’re great saws. The serial number will tell you the rough date.
http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/imagedetail.aspx?id=1244

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

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