Radial Arm Saw Blade

Technically, you should have a blade with a negative hook angle to prevent the blade from climbing the workpiece. A thin kerf isn’t a bad idea for the underpowered (1 1/2hp) RAS as well.

That said, my main RAS blade is a Freud thin kerf cutoff blade, which works great and never experiences any climbing issues as long as you move the saw very slowly and make sure the workpiece is secure against the fence. You should never be placing any part of your body in the path of the blade with an RAS anyways, and usually they will stall out and pop the breaker before they cause any problems anyways if they climb.

Now, if you’re ripping with the RAS, my only advice is don’t, get a tablesaw. :P

-- Dylan Vanderhoof - General hobbiest and reluctant penmaker. http://llarian.etsy.com

Like Dylan said, blades on a radial arm saw must have a zero or negative hook angle on the teeth. This means if you were to draw a line from the center of the blade out to the edge, that the angle of the tooth would either be perfectly in line (zero) or raked slightly backward (negative angle). If the teeth are raked forward even one degree (like MOST blades) it could “climb” toward you and send the powerhead/blade flying in your direction.

This is the blade I recommend: the LU91R. I think this is what I got for mine. The 8 1/2” was about $90, but well worth it. Ultra fine cross cuts, thin kerf increases power, negative hook angle keeps it safe, and non-stick coating keeps it clean.

-- Check out my new website! http://www.blakeweberwoodworking.com

Would it be possible to go with a smaller blade. Would that help with the power problem? Im not sure if that extra half inch would affect the performance of the saw. But thank you Blake and Dylan for your replies. This site is great.

Brett

I purchased a blade for my RAS reciently:

Freud LU91M010 10-Inch 60 Tooth

Got it off of Amazon for $54, it does not have the protective red coating which you can get from Amazon for an additional $10. It works great and has reduced the tendency to climb as it cuts. If you are a top shelf kind of guy then look at Forests ChopMaster blade.

Hope this helps!

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

You could get a smaller blade, but I wouldn’t, you’d lose a lot of potential workpiece thickness. sIKE’s reccomendation is probably the best inexpensive blade for your RAS. The LU91R010 would be an excellent choice as well. (I use all Freud blades, but the Forrest ones are always amazingly highly rated, so that’d be a good choice too)

You’ll be fine with a 10” thin kerf, just make sure you’re not cutting too quickly. My 1 1/2 hp saw happily plows through 10/4 rock maple and purpleheart with a freud TK blade.

-- Dylan Vanderhoof - General hobbiest and reluctant penmaker. http://llarian.etsy.com

Great thread.
I just received a 1950’s DeWalt RAS that could use a newer blade.
Thanks.

-- John, Nor-Cal, shopsmith.net/forums

I use a Woodworker 1 blade. It was designed for RAS.

-- "A goal without a plan is a wish."

I bought an “Irwin” 60 tooth blade that was partnered with a 24 tooth rip blade. Both were thin kerf and on sale for $29.99. I don’t even use the rip blade, I get VERY smooth cross cuts and rip cuts!

YMMV

later,

-- dust control