LumberJocks

Problems with my new Veritas Low Angle Jack Plane

  • Advertise with us

« back to Hand Tools forum

Forum topic by Goodsh posted 06-30-2013 05:25 PM 2308 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Goodsh's profile

Goodsh

49 posts in 672 days


06-30-2013 05:25 PM

I just picked up the LA Jack yesterday and am not getting very good results. All of the reviews have been great so I’m sure it’s something I’m doing (or not doing). Right now I’m getting better results from an old Stanley #4 that has a slightly out of flat sole and crooked mouth opening!

To start with in order to install the lever cap on the blade I had to loosen the lever cap knob completely and also loosen the screw that holds the lever cap down to probably the last thread. It had a lot of wiggle in it. Is this normal? The screw seems too short because it has to be almost all the way out in order to install the cap. After installing the cap I tightened the screw a little bit and then used the lever cap knob to tighten the cap against the blade.

In use with the 38 degree blade (cutting angle of 50) I’m getting tear out and very inconsistent cuts – even on an already flat board. Working on a 6” Maple (not curly or bird’s eye, just regular hard maple) I’ll take a few strokes lengthwise down the board slowly working across it and get no shavings at all for a few strokes and then suddenly it will bite so hard I can’t push through the stroke. I’m having a really hard time getting consistent thin shavings. It’s too much or too little or both with one setting. Are the settings just really finicky and I just need more practice to get it?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


16 replies so far

View Mark Shymanski's profile

Mark Shymanski

5119 posts in 2464 days


#1 posted 06-30-2013 05:46 PM

Just guessing here…you’ve probably checked the obvious things like the blade being bevel side, or crooked to the mouth or other basic set up stuff. I am surprised by the difficulty you are having with the screws. This doesn’t sound like a normal issue with LV planes. It sound like you’ve got it assembled in some weird way. I’m in a waiting room right now otherwise I’d go look at how mine is set up. Grabbing sounds like the blade is too far out. Remember witk the long sole you will not be following the same bumps and hollow that the shorter 4 1/2 will. It may just be that the board isn’t as flat as the longer plane will make it. Once you’ve got the high spots down you will get a longer consistent curl. Remember flat is what you’re going for not the curls. HTH

-- "Checking for square? What madness is this! The cabinet is square because I will it to be so!" Jeremy Greiner LJ Topic#20953 2011 Feb 2

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

2045 posts in 1245 days


#2 posted 06-30-2013 05:59 PM

I also have one and had to go look. The screw that the cap fits over is almost bottomed out on mine. I bottomed it out and backed it up almost 2 full turns to get the cap on. That leaves almost 1/4” or so of the screw in the base.I’m wondering if you have a defective one that got past their typically excellent quality control. If that’s the case, I’m sure LV will make it right. BYTW, I have no problem getting whisper thin shavings with mine, but I have a 25ยบ bevel and I don’t know that compares to yours..

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Willeh's profile

Willeh

228 posts in 1091 days


#3 posted 06-30-2013 06:36 PM

How did you sharpen it? I had a LOT of trouble with my Veritas BU Smoother taking big bites as you describe until I went to Lie Nielsen tool event and was talking to one of the demonstrators about it. He said that LN does not recommend sharpening ANY camber into the blade as it will cause bite. LN does not recommend putting any camber on a BU blade. I reground my blade, and have had much better results. I use my BU jack the same, with no camber and it works great!

-- Will, Ontario Canada. "I can do fast, cheap and good, but you can only pick two... "

View Goodsh's profile

Goodsh

49 posts in 672 days


#4 posted 06-30-2013 07:15 PM

Fred – just measured and I’m actually about 1/4 of the screw in as well so thanks for the info – I’m surprised at how loose the screw is though. I have the 25 degree bevel for edge grain. Haven’t bothered trying it on the face thinking the higher angle would be better. Willeh – no camber. Just using the presharpened and flattened blade from LV (which worked great on my block plane). Out in the shop trying again and am very slowly advancing blade but it seems I either get no shavings at all or it bites competely. I can’t find the middle ground! Are the settings that sensitive? I’m getting great results edge planing but not on the face.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

2045 posts in 1245 days


#5 posted 06-30-2013 08:31 PM

Forgot that part of your question, I don’t find the adjustment to be that sensitive. I can dial it to pretty much any thickness shaving I need.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Tim Dahn's profile

Tim Dahn

1481 posts in 2317 days


#6 posted 06-30-2013 08:48 PM

You should be able to get whisper thin shavings right out of the box.

Did you adjust the set screws on the sides?
Did you adjust the mouth?
The lever cap only needs to be snug, don,t over tighten.

Here are the instuctions for setting up the LA Jack: http://www.leevalley.com/US/shopping/Instructions.aspx?p=67276

-- Good judgement comes from experience and experience comes from poor judgement.

View JohnChung's profile

JohnChung

282 posts in 826 days


#7 posted 07-01-2013 01:31 PM

Goodsh – what is the length of the screw that holds the lever cap? We can compare to our screw length.

If the mouth is closed then the play in the blade with the poor screw will cause issues.

View Goodsh's profile

Goodsh

49 posts in 672 days


#8 posted 07-01-2013 02:04 PM

It’s 1 inch and when screwed out enough for the cap to fit on there’s about 1/4 inch still in the base. Lots of wiggle in it. If yours is the same do you tighten the screw at all or leave it loose and only use the knob or tightening?

View JohnChung's profile

JohnChung

282 posts in 826 days


#9 posted 07-01-2013 03:42 PM

My screw is about 1 inch. There is some wiggle after I screw in 1/4 of the thread. The wiggle GOES away with the lever cap tighten. I would say about 3/4 way of the lever cap screw.

I suggest you need to adjust the screw through creeping. Screw it all the way into the base then start move it up WHILE adjusting the lever cap. There is a sweat spot for this. The end result would be the lever cap is firm in place. No play at all with the blade install…..

Here is the manual from Lee Valley
http://www.leevalley.com/US/shopping/Instructions.aspx?p=67276 Please please please don’t jam the screw threads. It will damage the LA Jack plane.

As for the tear out close the mouth all the way then open little at a time until no shavings get jams in it.

View Goodsh's profile

Goodsh

49 posts in 672 days


#10 posted 07-01-2013 09:22 PM

Problem solved. I reground and honed the blade and it works like a charm now. Kind of obvious in retrospect I suppose but my Veritas block plane blade came perfectly honed and worked great out of the box and that’s how all of their blades are advertised. I’m a little disappointed that I had to re-sharpen to get it working but that’s a minor nuisance. This sucker is now working as a Veritas should and I’m getting beautiful shavings with it. Thanks for all the suggestions.

View JohnChung's profile

JohnChung

282 posts in 826 days


#11 posted 07-02-2013 02:45 AM

Good! I have bought LV and LN and I can safely say it is NOT that sharp out the box. It can slice paper easily but that is about it. Sharpness is a subjective thing…..... There is no end to sharpness.

View Derek Cohen's profile

Derek Cohen

185 posts in 2720 days


#12 posted 07-04-2013 02:21 PM

Kindly note:

1. NO plane manufacturer sends a plane out expecting the blade to be working sharp out of the box! You ARE expected it sharpen it before use.

2. I think that someone misunderstood the advice given by LN – every plane used for finishing a surface MUST account for track lines. It is a fact of life. To do this one either cambers a blade or one removes the corners. In my book cambering is the way to go. This advice stands for BOTH bevel up and bevel down planes.

Regards from Perth

Derek

-- Buildiing furniture, and reviewing and building tools at http://www.inthewoodshop.com

View Goodsh's profile

Goodsh

49 posts in 672 days


#13 posted 07-06-2013 03:17 AM

Derek, FYI – the Veritas blades come in a case with a small instruction sheet that specifically says they are sharpened and ready for use (I just double checked in case I imagined it!). Coming from a company like Veritas a statement like that should be reliable. In my case it wasn’t. With my block plane the blade was definitely sharp and worked great out of the box. I haven’t bought from any other manufacturers so don’t know what their blades are like or what they say about them. At any rate a minor nuisance for an awesome tool.

View Derek Cohen's profile

Derek Cohen

185 posts in 2720 days


#14 posted 07-06-2013 03:53 AM

Hi Goodsh

But sharpened and ready for WHAT use? There is no way that ANY manufacturer does anything more than sharpen for basic use, at most this means on a soft wood such as Pine. This is around 2000 grit on a waterstone. If you want to be sharp for planing serious wood, then you require at least 6000, and 8000+ is better. Then we need to consider how the plane is set up – the cutting angle is especially important on harder woods, and even more so those with interlocked grain. Moderate level sharpening plus incorrect cutting angle (or use of a chip breaker on low bed BD planes with these fitted) is a recipe for poor performance. Do not blame the manufacturer. You are expected to hone all new blades.

Regards from Perth

Derek

-- Buildiing furniture, and reviewing and building tools at http://www.inthewoodshop.com

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3570 posts in 1565 days


#15 posted 07-06-2013 04:08 AM

1+ my Veritas block plane came absolutely ready to use. I expected to hone it, but it came razor sharp.
I disagree that any plane blade needs to be sharpened to 8000 grit. That is way overkill for what I do.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

showing 1 through 15 of 16 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase