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Freud glue line blade for Bosch 4100-09 table saw

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Forum topic by vsefcik posted 06-30-2013 05:24 PM 4016 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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vsefcik

11 posts in 1686 days


06-30-2013 05:24 PM

I have a Bosch 4100-09 table saw and I’m considering purchasing a Freud glue line rip blade. The Bosch manual states that the blade kerf width should be .092” or wider and the plate thickness should be .088” or less. The Freud LM75R010 blade has a kerf of .091” (slightly undersize) and plate thickness of .071” (OK). The Freud LM74R010 blade has a kerf of .118” (OK) but the plate thickness is .098” (too thick). So both are slightly out of spec with the Bosch documentation. Has anyone used either of these two blades in a Bosch 4100 table saw? If so, did you have to remove the riving knife (something I really don’t want to do)? If neither will work, do you have a recommendation for another glue line rip blade. Most of my work is with 3/4” cherry and oak. Thanks.

-- vsefcik


10 replies so far

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4391 posts in 2129 days


#1 posted 06-30-2013 06:37 PM

Can you buy another riving knife for the saw? If so I would shave a little off of the thickness by gently sanding a thou or two off of the thickness of a spare riving knife then you should be able to use the thin kerf blade safely.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2736 posts in 2355 days


#2 posted 06-30-2013 11:34 PM

Kerf is the only thing that matters; not the plate.
If the kerf is the same size or bigger than the riving knife, you should be ok; just adjust the riving knife carefully. I used to use a wooden splitter that was the exact size of the kerf. Never an issue.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

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knotscott

7725 posts in 3153 days


#3 posted 06-30-2013 11:46 PM

There’s going to be a little bit of arbor runout, and likely some blade runout that will add to the overall kerf width of the cut, so as NW said, if the kerf is the same size or bigger than the riving knife, you should be ok if everything is lined up well.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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vsefcik

11 posts in 1686 days


#4 posted 07-01-2013 02:25 PM

Thanks for the replies. I had the belief that the plate thickness shouldn’t be an issue as long as the kerf is wider than the riving knife. I did find two web sites in which people were using a Freud P410 blade on the Bosch 4100 and the P410 blade has a plate thickness of .098”, the same as the Freud LM74R010. So, I’ll give the LM74R010 a try. I do make my own zero clearance inserts and will make another for this new blade.

-- vsefcik

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knotscott

7725 posts in 3153 days


#5 posted 07-01-2013 04:19 PM

You’re correct that the plate thickness shouldn’t matter…it’s the kerf width that’s key. The LM74 is full kerf, which will labor your saw more than the TK. The width difference may only be 1/32” inch, but a full kerf blade is upwards of 33% wider, which adds considerably more resistance to the motor.

Freud's LU86 has a kerf of 0.094” and will easily rip a glue ready edge in any material that the LM74 or LM75 will handle. It also offers the benefit of decent crosscuts should the need ever arise. There are many other good choices that will also give a glue ready finish in up to 1” material….the Infinity 010-150 Combomax will rip even thicker material with a glue ready edge and has a kerf 0.097”. The Irwin Marples 40T ATB or 50T ATB/R blade have a kerf of 0.098”, and will also rip easily to over 1.5” with a glue ready edge.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View rockus's profile

rockus

3 posts in 238 days


#6 posted 02-20-2017 05:40 PM

I’m fairly new to woodworking. I have been a quiet reader here for some time. I definitely have gained a ton of knowledge from this site, but I signed up just to post on this thread because I was concerned about the advice posted by several different people about the plate size not mattering. I found this thread because I, too, am looking for a better-than-stock blade for my Bosch 4100 and am having some trouble with the kerf and plate thickness requirements. I know the thread is pretty old, but if I found it, someone else will too.

It is true that only the kerf thickness is important for the blade to function with the riving knife on the saw, but if the plate is too thick, the riving knife becomes useless. The riving knife’s job is to keep the cut wood from coming in contact with the back, upward moving part of the blade plate. The only way the riving knife does what it is made to do is if it is thicker than the plate of the saw blade. If the plate is thicker than the riving knife, then cut pieces are just as likely to be kicked back as they would be with no riving knife at all. That’s why the Bosch manual gives the maximum blade plate width and makes very clear that it should be adhered to.

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knotscott

7725 posts in 3153 days


#7 posted 02-20-2017 05:53 PM

As far as a correlation to the riving knife, the body doesn’t cut anything…it just holds the teeth in place, so as long as the body is stiff enough to support the teeth without significant wobble, there’s little the body (plate thickness) contributes to the overall kerf width of the cut. The teeth do the cutting, so tooth width determines the actual width of the cut, and should always be wider than the body. Tooth width is the key element that determines whether or not the riving knife will pass through the kerf that the blade creates. It’s important that the tooth width (generally known as the kerf of the blade) is wider than the riving knife.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Krajnik's profile

Krajnik

1 post in 150 days


#8 posted 05-19-2017 07:21 PM

Rockus has it correct. The plate thickness DOES matter with respect to the riving knife. The riving knife is there to prevent the wood from binding on the blade, and binding on the body of the blade is what causes issues. When the wood is warped and starts to pinch inward, the teeth of the blade easily cut through it (that’s what they’re designed to do). It’s when the wood pinches further and contacts the plate of the blade that the saw actually binds up.

This is why the Bosch manual indicates that the teeth should be wider than the riving knife (so the knife fits into the kerf), and the plate should be narrower than the knife (so that the wood grabs the knife, and never contacts the body of the blade. If the body of the blade is thicker than the knife, the knife will not prevent blade binding.

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

2511 posts in 1803 days


#9 posted 05-20-2017 03:05 AM

I’m with Knotscott on this one. It is impossible to predict how wood will move, or how much, . No matter how thin the blade plate, hypothetically it would be possible for the wood to close up on it.

In any case, if you have a riving knife or properly functioning splitter, it ain’t going to happen. The wood will pinch on the RK, not on the blade’s plate. That happened to me when I first installed my new riving knife. So I shut her down and backed out. What you have raised is really a non-issue.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View rockus's profile

rockus

3 posts in 238 days


#10 posted 05-24-2017 09:18 PM

Sorry runswithscissors, but by your logic, a riving knife would serve its purpose using a blade twice as thick as the knife. That just doesn’t make sense. Someone may take your advice and end up getting hurt. Irresponsible.

As for me, I’ll go with the advice of the engineers that made my saw over a “ain’t going to happen” from an anonymous forum poster. I suggest anyone else that reads this thread do the same.

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