Saw blades

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Forum topic by BigJerryWayne posted 397 days ago 436 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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133 posts in 707 days

397 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question blade miter saw tip

I was wondering about tear outs on cuts. Right now I am using a 40 tooth blade on my Craftsman 12” compound miter saw. It is what was on the saw when I bought it. What do I need to look for in a blade to cause less tear out? More teeth, angle of teeth or something else?

-- An oak tree is just a nut that stood it's ground.

8 replies so far

View Sheila Landry (scrollgirl)'s profile

Sheila Landry (scrollgirl)

7490 posts in 1524 days

#1 posted 397 days ago

Sorry – I didn’t see that this was a miter saw. I guess my head is thinking “Scroll saw!” ;)


-- Contributing Editor, Creative Woodworks and Crafts Magazine, If you like reading my blog, come visit at Sheila Landry Designs "Knowledge is Power"

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4758 posts in 1181 days

#2 posted 397 days ago

Maybe make a zero clearance fence for your miter saw?

View kdc68's profile


1942 posts in 881 days

#3 posted 397 days ago

A blade with 60 or more teeth would be considered a crosscut….An alternate top bevel (ATB) and a negative hook angle are also considerations in a crosscut blade that help eliminate tear out

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View MrRon's profile


2731 posts in 1848 days

#4 posted 397 days ago

Tearout can be caused by blade runout and incorrectly set teeth on a blade. If your saw is set up properly and you have a good crosscut blade, tearout should be minimal ay best. There will always be variations in blade set and runout with consumer grade tools.

View teejk's profile


1207 posts in 1289 days

#5 posted 397 days ago

When I see excessive tearout on a miter saw cut I do some clean-up and re-tune the blade 90 degrees to the saw table (doesn’t seem to require much deviation to produce that “fuzz”).

View Bill1225's profile


125 posts in 1003 days

#6 posted 397 days ago

I use diablo or cmt itk96 tooth blades lately on work trim saws ( they are good value around 50-60$)and forrest chopmaster or amana in the shop (100-120) the cheaper blade can deflect slightly if you push there feed rate

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5372 posts in 1980 days

#7 posted 397 days ago

Saw blade tips

It’s important to get good quality blades that have good steel, precision balance, good carbide, etc….once you clear that hurdle, more teeth typically means a cleaner cut if all else is equal, but there’s never a free lunch… it also means more resitance, more tendency to burn, slower cut, generally higher cost, etc. The cleanest cutting blades will have a high tooth count (typically 80-90T for a 10” or 12” blade) and a HI-ATB grind, which is the cleanest slicing grind available, but also has the shortest edge life….that combination should leave the least amount of tearout possible in a saw blade. If you keep it clean, it should still offer pretty good edge life for a hobbyist. You may also find a that a good ATB grind on a high precision blade with a high tooth count will also do very well, and should give a little longer edge life.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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133 posts in 707 days

#8 posted 396 days ago

Thank you for all the input. I just came in from Lowe’s where a new Dewalt 96 tooth blade just happened jump in my cart.

Now to try it out.

-- An oak tree is just a nut that stood it's ground.

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