Saw blades

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Forum topic by BigJerryWayne posted 06-29-2013 05:37 PM 853 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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138 posts in 2068 days

06-29-2013 05:37 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question blade miter saw tip

I was wondering about tear outs on cuts. Right now I am using a 40 tooth blade on my Craftsman 12” compound miter saw. It is what was on the saw when I bought it. What do I need to look for in a blade to cause less tear out? More teeth, angle of teeth or something else?

-- An oak tree is just a nut that stood it's ground.

8 replies so far

View Sheila Landry (scrollgirl)'s profile

Sheila Landry (scrollgirl)

9222 posts in 2885 days

#1 posted 06-29-2013 06:02 PM

Sorry – I didn’t see that this was a miter saw. I guess my head is thinking “Scroll saw!” ;)


-- Designer/Artist/Teacher. Owner of Sheila Landry Designs ( Scroll saw, wood working and painting patterns and surfaces. "Knowledge is Power"

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8165 posts in 2542 days

#2 posted 06-29-2013 06:05 PM

Maybe make a zero clearance fence for your miter saw?

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2649 posts in 2242 days

#3 posted 06-29-2013 06:07 PM

A blade with 60 or more teeth would be considered a crosscut….An alternate top bevel (ATB) and a negative hook angle are also considerations in a crosscut blade that help eliminate tear out

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View MrRon's profile


4718 posts in 3209 days

#4 posted 06-29-2013 06:38 PM

Tearout can be caused by blade runout and incorrectly set teeth on a blade. If your saw is set up properly and you have a good crosscut blade, tearout should be minimal ay best. There will always be variations in blade set and runout with consumer grade tools.

View teejk's profile


1215 posts in 2650 days

#5 posted 06-29-2013 07:23 PM

When I see excessive tearout on a miter saw cut I do some clean-up and re-tune the blade 90 degrees to the saw table (doesn’t seem to require much deviation to produce that “fuzz”).

View Bill1225's profile


125 posts in 2365 days

#6 posted 06-29-2013 07:33 PM

I use diablo or cmt itk96 tooth blades lately on work trim saws ( they are good value around 50-60$)and forrest chopmaster or amana in the shop (100-120) the cheaper blade can deflect slightly if you push there feed rate

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7980 posts in 3341 days

#7 posted 06-29-2013 07:57 PM

Saw blade tips

It’s important to get good quality blades that have good steel, precision balance, good carbide, etc….once you clear that hurdle, more teeth typically means a cleaner cut if all else is equal, but there’s never a free lunch… it also means more resitance, more tendency to burn, slower cut, generally higher cost, etc. The cleanest cutting blades will have a high tooth count (typically 80-90T for a 10” or 12” blade) and a HI-ATB grind, which is the cleanest slicing grind available, but also has the shortest edge life….that combination should leave the least amount of tearout possible in a saw blade. If you keep it clean, it should still offer pretty good edge life for a hobbyist. You may also find a that a good ATB grind on a high precision blade with a high tooth count will also do very well, and should give a little longer edge life.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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138 posts in 2068 days

#8 posted 06-30-2013 07:30 PM

Thank you for all the input. I just came in from Lowe’s where a new Dewalt 96 tooth blade just happened jump in my cart.

Now to try it out.

-- An oak tree is just a nut that stood it's ground.

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