Buying used table saw blades

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Forum topic by natenaaron posted 06-29-2013 05:04 PM 2223 views 0 times favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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442 posts in 1820 days

06-29-2013 05:04 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw blade

Quality table saw blades are EXPENSIVE! I understand the cost. If and when I get my table saw I will invest in one.

On the other hand good dado sets are even more expensive and some what prohibitive. There are lots of used ones on Craig’s list and Ebay but I am very hesitant to purchase a used blade. One never knows what someone has done to it. Is it for sale because they decided after a project or two that wood working was not for them, and they are liquidating? Did they play Frisbee with it on a cement floor?

Is my concern about buying and using used blades unfounded?

22 replies so far

View Loren's profile


10476 posts in 3671 days

#1 posted 06-29-2013 05:16 PM

If a blade has been dropped onto a hard floor it will probably
have chipped or missing teeth.

Say you get a 10” 80t Systimatic blade for $20 – you can send
it to Forrest and they’ll sharpen it and replace a few damaged
teeth for about $40. That’s a high-end industrial blade
that retailed for over $100, even on sale, so it’s not
a stupid buy especially.

That said, you’ll see opportunities to buy used blades that
haven’t seen much use and don’t need repair or sharpening.

Onsrud closes out new old stock saw blades on ebay all
the time and they are high quality pro German blades.

View NiteWalker's profile


2737 posts in 2600 days

#2 posted 06-29-2013 05:17 PM

I’ve never felt the need to buy expensive blades. I’ve been using these since I started woodworking and never felt the need to spend more. Cuts are clean and accurate.

As for a dado set, I’ve been using this one a lot lately. It cuts flat bottoms and comes with a nice case. I’m happy with it.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View MrRon's profile


4793 posts in 3266 days

#3 posted 06-29-2013 06:43 PM

I would be very wary about used dado sets. They are difficult to sharpen right. The outside blades may have been resharpened, but unless the chippers (all the chippers) have been ground, it will never cut properly.

View knotscott's profile


8055 posts in 3398 days

#4 posted 06-29-2013 07:33 PM

Even though I’ve sold a lot of really good blades that were only used for a few test cuts, I think some caution is merited, because most people don’t buy blades just to test them out. I’d have no reservastions if you found a slightly used blade from someone who’s a recognized contributor here, who’s purchased a new saw and no longer needs the old blades. I’m sure there are some very legitimate deals on some used blades out there, but overall, I’d be concerned why someone would be selling a really good blade. Believe or not, the premium $100+ blades don’t always conform to spec 100% of the time, so it’s possible to buy a very slightly used “misfit” if someone found it easier to resell it than to return it.

Good blades don’t have to cost an arm and a leg if you’re patient and do some research….there are dark horse sleepers that perform extremely well that aren’t well marketed and sell for less than the more trendy blades. There are also closeouts, clearance items, inventory reduction sales, and just plain old genuine bargains if you’re selective. You didn’t mention what saw you have, but the Delta 35-7657 Industrial blade that NiteWalker mentioned is a bonafide bargain in a full kerf 40T ATB general purpose blade….made in the USA, and holds it’s own against alot of blades that cost much more. His link offers it through Cripe Distribution, who also has some other good blades on closeout (ie: 80T Oldham Pro ...same as the DW3218PT. They also have a 24T Bosch Pro rip blade for $14, and a Delta 18T Industrial rip blade made in Germany for $21…they combine s/h to lower the overall cost). The Oshlun line is a surprisingly good bargain line….most of their 10” blades are full kerf. If your saw is smallish, and/or you prefer thin kerf blades, there are some pretty good lines that are generally affordable that perform surprisingly well for the pirce…ie: Freud Diablo, some Freud Industrial, Irwin Marples, DeWalt Precision Trim (not to be confused with their “Construction” series), CMT ITK Plus, some CMT Industrial, Tenryu Rapid Cut series, to name a few. Sears has (or had) some blades that were made in Italy that I suspect come from Freud or the same plant as the Freud blades.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View exelectrician's profile


2327 posts in 2450 days

#5 posted 06-29-2013 07:38 PM

You will always regret saving money by buying dull blades, I throw mine away. It never occured to me that someone would actually buy them.

-- Love thy neighbour as thyself

View natenaaron's profile


442 posts in 1820 days

#6 posted 06-29-2013 08:03 PM

That was some good info Knottscott.

Thanks for the info folks.

View natenaaron's profile


442 posts in 1820 days

#7 posted 06-29-2013 09:13 PM

So out of the saw blades listed, are the dado sets as good?

View NiteWalker's profile


2737 posts in 2600 days

#8 posted 06-29-2013 10:44 PM

I got the recommendation for the delta/dewalt dado set from knotscott and haven’t been disappointed.

Thanks for other blade mentions too scott; I needed a rip blade for some miter keys. :-)

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View knotscott's profile


8055 posts in 3398 days

#9 posted 06-30-2013 12:07 AM

”So out of the saw blades listed, are the dado sets as good?”

It’s always a matter of opinion how good something is, but I don’t think Cripe currently has any decent dado sets….the unmarked Irwin set they sell is pretty bad. I don’t know of any closeout deals on dado sets going on right now, but you might find something on Ebay. The Delta/DW 7670 is the best set I’m aware in the $100 range….it gives a good taste of what the best sets offer at about half the price. $100 is still alot money, but it’s a very good set that’ll perform well and should last a good long time.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Gary's profile


9333 posts in 3456 days

#10 posted 06-30-2013 01:28 AM

Which ever blade you use, remember the rule:

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill

View NoLongerHere's profile


893 posts in 2699 days

#11 posted 06-30-2013 02:34 AM

Expensive blades….Bah! got a pile of them in the corner.

I switched to the thin kerf Freud Diablos when they first came out and never bought another expensive blade again. I’m just a small shop running a Unisaw and a couple of mitre boxes, mind you.

I just don’t believe a sharpened blade is as sharp and as good as a new blade. And a new 46.00 Diablo stays sharp just as long as the 120.00 Forrest. The difference is in the thickness of the carbide tooth so you can sharpen it several times. I’m sure the Forrest is a superior blade…...but so what? You plane all your finished edges anyway. Save your money. Work it in to the price of the job as supplies.

A thin kerf blade is faster and makes half? as much dust. Use it up and throw it away.

or you can pile them in the corner like I did.

View NoLongerHere's profile


893 posts in 2699 days

#12 posted 06-30-2013 02:57 AM

And dado blades….. If you do casework, you’ll find that a good plunge router and a clamping straight edge is easier and faster to set up for dados and rabbets.

I have the delta set but I hardly use it. The Freud dado set had good reviews too.

View Planeman40's profile


1179 posts in 2784 days

#13 posted 06-30-2013 04:17 AM

I’m going to hear a lot of screams about what I have to say. But it is true.

I have a Hammer K3 sliding table saw that uses a 12” blade. I have a 10” blade that came with the saw that worked great, however the need for a 12 ” blade arose for just one project. I didn’t want to invest $120 – $140 in a new 12” blade for just one small project, so I bought a 96 tooth 12” blade from Harbor Freight for $36. As the Hammer is a European saw that has a slightly larger arbor hole and two locking pin holes in addition to the arbor hole, I sent it off to Forrest Blades to have it punched to the larger arbor size and for the locking pins for an additional $36. I saved about $60 in the process.

I intended to get through the project and then go back to my 10” blade, but the Harbor Freight blade cut so smoothly and quietly I kept it on the saw. Its been nearly a year now and I am still very happy with the Harbor Freight blade.

You just may want to give a harbor Freight blade a try.


-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2873 days

#14 posted 06-30-2013 01:53 PM

Just one thing to add: As a rule I do not buy a used thin kerf blade because if you push them at all, when they dull, the body overheats and they get whee-hawed and will never be right again.

If I spot a used 1/8 kerf blade, known brand, ample carbide, not covered in pitch like a floozy’s face in rouge, I’ll usually pungle up for it if the price is reasonable.

Thank you, Knotscott, for the wonderful treatise on this subject. It has reframed my thinking about buying blades in general and provided me a specific site to explore.



-- " his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View JamesT's profile


102 posts in 1935 days

#15 posted 06-30-2013 02:27 PM

I bought four Oshlun 40 tooth GM for under $100 from Carbide Processors just as a test against my Forrest WWll (over $100 for one). After using the first Oshlun for more than two months, can’t tell any different between the blades. Most of my cuts are two inch oak, walnut and cherry for rocking chairs.

-- Jim from Doniphan

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