Shed Question

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Forum topic by woodify posted 06-29-2013 01:36 AM 738 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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130 posts in 1494 days

06-29-2013 01:36 AM

I started building a 10×12 shed this afternoon. I have the studs and rafters in place and the floor is half finished but not screwed down yet.

The lumberyard delivered four pressure treated 4×4x12s. I was thinking I’d put the shed directly on the blocks but the 4×4x12s came with the “kit” so they are now under a what will be my shed (the 4×4x12s are siting on cement blocks.)

My question is should I fasten the 2×6 joists to the 4×4x12s, if so what is the best way to do this? Or does the shed just float on the 4×4x12 and cement blocks?

-- Woodify ~~

6 replies so far

View NGK's profile


93 posts in 1333 days

#1 posted 06-29-2013 02:03 AM

Your post is a little unclear, but I see no reason why it can’t “just float”. You could put a layer of “liquid nails” adhesive between the blocks and any wood which come in contact with them.

And, by the way, they’re CONCRETE BLOCKS. Cement is the powder ingredient of concrete. Typical concrete mix is 1/6 cement, 2/6 sand, and 3/6 gravel. Or 1/6, 1/3, and 1/2 if you prefer. Simply said it’s one part cement, 2 parts sand, and 3 parts gravel. Varying the amount of cement will affect the overall strength of the concrete. A greater amount of cement is called a richer mix. And I’m a firm believer of using “fiber strand” in the mix to also increase strength and prevent cracking. Of course this refers to pads, floors, walls, driveways, etc.—not blocks. AND some blocks are made with cinders—thus the name cinder blocks.

View longgone's profile


5688 posts in 2730 days

#2 posted 06-29-2013 02:07 AM

I would just

View UpstateNYdude's profile


672 posts in 1405 days

#3 posted 06-29-2013 03:01 AM

Just an FYI 6×6x12’s for the sleepers would have been better and you could have just used 2 they allow more air to flow under the floor joists and keeps the ply and pressure treated 2×6’s (I hope you used pressure treated for the floor joists anyway) and the best way to save the sleepers is to rest them either on concrete slabs, not blocks, they crack to easy or dig 1 foot trenches into the topsoil and pack it with gravel and level it to keep the shed from heaving when winter comes and better drainage.

-- Nick, "Choking to death on bacon is like getting murdered by your lover." - JG

View RonInOhio's profile


720 posts in 2286 days

#4 posted 06-29-2013 03:17 AM

4×16 inch solid concrete piers, setting on compacted gravel should be fine.As well as PT 4×4s. All of your lumber should be PT. Also a few inches of gravel under the shed . A vapor barrer on top of the gravel.

Build a pallet out of your 4×4s. I would run 3 rows of your piers spaced evenly across the width, running the
length, maybe around 24” apart. Build your floor joists directly on the 4×4 pallet. You can use lag bolts to bolt
the bottom plates to the pallet.

View woodify's profile


130 posts in 1494 days

#5 posted 07-01-2013 02:11 AM

Thanks for the responses. I ended up nailing the 2×6s to the 4×4x12 sleepers by nailing at an angle near the buttom of the 2×6s. For some reason i thought i may have needed something fancy. i ordered a shed kit from my local hardware store since i’ve never constructed a shed before. The instructions were missing a few details about the base. Just need the roof shingles and siding then i’ll be finished. Oh and some doors. Cheers

-- Woodify ~~

View MT_Stringer's profile


2820 posts in 2653 days

#6 posted 07-01-2013 02:52 AM

” I ended up nailing the 2×6s to the 4×4×12 sleepers by nailing at an angle near the buttom of the 2×6s.”

That’s what I did.
Same size as yours. I only used three of the 4×4’s. Built in 2001 or 2002, the shed has survived two hurricanes so far. One of which came really close (Ike). No damage at all. The insurance guy was impressed. :-)

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

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