LumberJocks

Cabinets and shelves question

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by ACR_SCOUT posted 393 days ago 694 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View ACR_SCOUT's profile

ACR_SCOUT

20 posts in 1004 days


393 days ago

Hello again,

I am building cabinets for my garage and still learning by doing.

The first cabinet I made I installed one fixed shelf. Now that I have it and looking at it, I think an adjustable shelf would be better.

This cabinet is 36” wide 12” deep.

Now the questions.

1. I already have the carcass put together for the second cabinet, what would be the easiest way to drill for shelf pins?

2. Considering 3/4” plywood, what are the limits in size for unsupported shelves?

3. Is it acceptable to use biscuit joinery to add solid wood to the front and back of the shelf?
3a. Will adding solid wood make that much of a difference for strength?
3b. Does the solid wood have to taller than the edge of the shelf to be useful?

I saw a forum post that suggested the woodpecker shelf piin jig and I think I might invest into that. I also saw the Kreg jig but compared to the woodpecker I don’t think it will be as good.

Once I get the technique down on these smaller cabinets I need to make taller, wider, and deeper cabinets for the garage.

Thank you,
Fred

-- Sears Table Saw Model: 113.298150


9 replies so far

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2699 posts in 1173 days


#1 posted 392 days ago

I made my shop cabinets all with adjustable shelves using the kreg jig. It worked great. The woodpecker jig looks nice, but kind of big and bulky to add holes after assembly. That’s one of the reasons I love the kreg jig; nice and compact. Cheap too, even if you buy the extra drill bit in the other size.

You can add solid wood to stiffen the shelves, biscuits are fine as is just gluing and clamping. They’ll add some strength; use a solid hardwood like oak or maple for best results. It doesn’t have to be taller, but 1” strips wouldn’t really take much away from the storage capacity.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

1938 posts in 873 days


#2 posted 392 days ago

An inexpensive alternative is to use peg board….the holes are 1” on center. Cut a piece to fit inside your cabinet. Mark the pegboard at the top “up” and an edge “outside edge” so you can orientate it correctly when drilling holes in each side both front and back ….draw a circle around each hole on the pegboard that you use for drilling…use stop collars for your drill bit so you can achieve the correct depth each time…

and
+1 on solid wood edging

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View MT_Stringer's profile

MT_Stringer

1797 posts in 1827 days


#3 posted 392 days ago

The Kreg shelf pin jig works great to retrofit a cabinet for adjustable shelves or for building new shelves. I did this recently for a friend on an entertainment center. Her kids put it together backwards. It has pins now.

If you like, check out my blog. i am doing my own garage/shop makeover. I mention all of the stuff used building the cabinets and getting them mounted and finished.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View Bernie's profile

Bernie

414 posts in 1433 days


#4 posted 391 days ago

I also use peg board – but I don’t do a whole of shelving.

Yes on the hardwood edging. You will notice that a 3/4 strip will be about 1/32 thicker then your 3/4 plywood because your 3/4 ply is not 3/4 thick.

I’m not sure about the jigs, but if you decide to use peg boards, mark your boards and keep them in order (facing each other). And always measure from the bottom up (even the top holes).

-- Bernie: It never gets hot or cold in New Hampshire, just seasonal!

View jeff's profile

jeff

634 posts in 2061 days


#5 posted 391 days ago

I used peg board also…You will probably have to strengthen your 36” shelf…

-- Jeff,Tucson,Az.

View darinS's profile

darinS

373 posts in 1464 days


#6 posted 391 days ago

Pegboard sounds like a good idea to me.

As far as the adjustable shelf, check out the sagulator. You can input different things and see what will work best for you.

Here’s a link: http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm

-- If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you!

View David Dean's profile

David Dean

489 posts in 1495 days


#7 posted 390 days ago

MT+ 1 Ya the Kreg shelf pin jig would make life easyer.

View SharitaJBevilacqua's profile

SharitaJBevilacqua

3 posts in 349 days


#8 posted 349 days ago

I want a moving and adjustable cabinet shelves as I need before remodeling of my home,do anyone have idea about it?

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

1637 posts in 1518 days


#9 posted 349 days ago

A lot of work to make the shelves adjustable. After you do this you will wonder why you made them adjustable. I recently made a total of 28 feet of 24” deep closed cabinets in my garage. I suggest you decide what you plan to store there and space the fixed shelves accordingly. A bit simpler.

-- In God We Trust

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase