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Forum topic by ACR_SCOUT posted 396 days ago 767 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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ACR_SCOUT

20 posts in 1004 days


396 days ago

I have been scrowering the internet looking for hinges for my garage cabinets. The cabinet has a face frame with flush inset doors. I picked up some simple utility hinges from the local box store but my attempts to mortise the frame and doors has so far failed miserably.

What I have found on the internet so far seems to be either for doors that overlap the frame or for doors that are 1/2” or 3/8”. My doors and frames are made out of 3/4” plywood.

Can someone point me to examples of hinges I can use that are not surface mounted? I might have to go with surface mounted for simplicity but would like to figure out the mortise method (I don’t know what the gap between the door and frame is called).

-- Sears Table Saw Model: 113.298150


4 replies so far

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404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 1566 days


#1 posted 396 days ago

Do you want to use butt hinges on this or euro style inset hinges?. With the doors being plywood, I really think the euro inset hinges are probably best, they are certainly easier and offer a full range of adjustment. They are available for face frame applications. Look for the inset (cranked ones).
If you are determined to master putting in butt hinges, one way of doing it is to mark up the mortises using a piece of scrap material.
Cut your bit of scrap so when it’s upright it’s a friction fit inside the face frame.
Mark the edges of the hinges on a door
Offer up the scrap piece to the edge of the door so the ends protrude an equal distance at the top and bottom of the door. Mark the top and bottom of the door on the scrap. Put a mark to indicate top and bottom on the scrap piece so you can keep it the right way up for all the doors.
Transfer the marks for the hinges onto the scrap piece
Put the scrap piece inside the face frame and transfer the hinge marks to to the face frame.
If you do this, all your marks on doors and face frames will be at the right height with an equal space top and bottom of the door.

To determine how deep to mortise for the hinges, get a hinge and measure the height of it with the two leaves closed but open slightly so they are parallel to each other. If you know the gap between door edge and face frame, subtract the gap from the hinge height and divide the remainder by two. That is your mortise depth.
To determine how far back the long edge of the hinge should go, open up the hinge, turn it around and offer it up to the door/ face frame with knuckle acting as a stop. Draw a line at the back edge, that is how far you want to go with the mortise.

I would take them all out with a router – set the depth, set the fence, rout away and square off the corners with a chisel. Or you could just chisel them out.

Good luck

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cutmantom

269 posts in 1631 days


#2 posted 396 days ago

there are butt hinges that are no mortise, for plywood i would use the ones that wrap around, screw hold better in the face of plywood than in the edge, check Rockler.com

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ACR_SCOUT

20 posts in 1004 days


#3 posted 395 days ago

I will looking into both the euro hinges and the butt hinges that don’t need to be mortised.

-- Sears Table Saw Model: 113.298150

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kdc68

1940 posts in 873 days


#4 posted 395 days ago

I will looking into both the euro hinges and the butt hinges that don’t need to be mortised

ACR SCOUT....there are many sources other than Rockler’s….but this is what cutmantom is referring to:

Non-mortise hinges
http://woodworking.rockler.com/search?w=non%20mortise%20hinges
European hinges
http://woodworking.rockler.com/search?w=european%20cabinet%20hinges

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

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