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Forum topic by UncleSnail posted 06-21-2013 03:46 AM 1068 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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54 posts in 3238 days

06-21-2013 03:46 AM

Topic tags/keywords: cutting boards cutting finger reliefs burning the wood super hard woods

I am building end grain cutting boards and am using rock maple and purple heart plus other super hardwoods. I am experiencing a burning problem when routing the finger reliefs into the undersides of these boards. A rabbet burns because it does not cut on the top plus I would like these reliefs to be 3/4 inch deep. Would a 3/4 inch depth cut rabbet do the job? the reliefs do not go through side to side so an initial “plunge” cut on the table is necessary. Can a plunge cut such as this be done with a rabbet bit? The widest up spiral straight bit I can find is 1/2 inch. Making the extra cut with this is problematic. It is difficult to control the outer edge profile. My immediate solution is to compromise my depth to 1/2 inch (slightly under). This works well but the extra 1/4 inch depth would be nice. These boards are thickā€¦1.5 or more inches and they are heavy. Add slippery hands and it could be dangerous. Is there any bit or whatever out there that will give me a 3/4 inch inset that also has the top blades? Maybe a 3/4 inch drill bit? Would this work in a router? I am guessing any drill bit that large would not have a 1/4 or 1/2 inch shank. Do you have any suggestions? I am assuming you carry products of this nature. The quality of your hand tools etc are unsurpassed in my opinion. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks, Dale

-- Dale, Michigan, objects scare wife scares me too.

5 replies so far

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5173 posts in 2692 days

#1 posted 06-21-2013 12:24 PM

I’m a little confused by the questions, but will offer this: there are 3/4” up cut spirals available, but I doubt they would be of much use because the have a 3/4” shank as well (Whiteside). But maybe a 3/4” fluted bit with a plunge cutting tip would work (?).

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View brtech's profile


1052 posts in 3121 days

#2 posted 06-21-2013 01:56 PM

This sounds like an email to a vendor, but anyway:
You can’t use a drill bit as a routing bit. They aren’t designed to cut on the edge.

Rabbit bits usually don’t plunge too well, but if you go slow enough maybe you can make it work. Another idea is to drill a starter hole with a drill press and then start the rabbit bit in the hole and move off from there. Try doing it in 3 or more passes.

I don’t understand what the problem you have with 1/2” spirals. That is what I would use. I don’t know what you mean by “difficult to control the outer edge profile”.

Can you do these cuts on a router table? That’s what I would try first. Stopped cut with a spiral up cut. I wouldn’t do more than 1/4” per pass, and maybe less. Do 3 or more passes with the fence set for one edge, then move the fence and repeat for the other edge.

Another thought: How long are these reliefs? Would it make sense to set up your TS with a Dado set, and do a stopped dado cut for the majority of the waste, and finish with a spiral or rabbit? You might even start with the blade below the table and crank it up the right number of turns. Cut it less than the full depth and use the router to get the full depth.

View brtech's profile


1052 posts in 3121 days

#3 posted 06-21-2013 02:02 PM

Or treat it like a mortise – remove most of the waste with forstner bit in a drill press, maybe chisel the edges and finish with the router.

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404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 3168 days

#4 posted 06-21-2013 03:41 PM

Turn the speed down on the router. Take small passes, finish by taking just a whisker. Clean and sharpen your router bits.

View a1Jim's profile


117328 posts in 3776 days

#5 posted 06-21-2013 03:44 PM

Ditto what renners said

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

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