LumberJocks

"Barn Style" Garage Door?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Wood & Lumber forum

Forum topic by JCMeyersIV posted 436 days ago 1217 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View JCMeyersIV's profile

JCMeyersIV

71 posts in 700 days


436 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question

Hey guys. Busy as hell again and I have a request for a replacement for her existing garage door. It’s the old school style one piece door that just swings up, assuming i CAN redo it, would painted pine be ok? Or should I use something rot resistant? She wants it to match the garage/barn so it’ll need to be painted.

-- John, NNY, www.facebook.com/JC4Woodworking


11 replies so far

View Clint Searl's profile (online now)

Clint Searl

1427 posts in 995 days


#1 posted 436 days ago

I would make a torsion box out of 1/2” ply or Advantech skins inside and outside a 1×2 interior frame.

-- Clint Searl.............We deserve what we tolerate

View Pete Pedisich's profile

Pete Pedisich

126 posts in 1281 days


#2 posted 436 days ago

I made one out of Pine, which when primed and painted is an excellent exterior wood, as a reproduction/replacement for a 107” x 79” sliding barn door. It was built similar to a board and batten door. It works well as a slider, but the method Clint suggests is superior for a garage door because it is very stiff, and the type that I made a has good bit of flex. Plus the torsion box style can be insulated.

!

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

3898 posts in 962 days


#3 posted 436 days ago

I second Pine as a good choice, since you want to keep the door light.

Bin the knots, prime it with oil base, and paint with a good exterior paint. I’ve had great success with the Behr stuff from HD.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View Pete Pedisich's profile

Pete Pedisich

126 posts in 1281 days


#4 posted 436 days ago

Yes, BIN the knots (Zissner shellac version). I always used the shellac version but on this door I used only the Zissner oil based cover stain since I wanted to see if it could block the knots… no way only the shellac version will do this 100%. Even the spay can works. Then I prime it all with oil-based primer (Zissner or B-M fresh start) on all faces/edges/sides, then assemble and then 2-3 coats of a quality latex. Behr is much better than it used to be. I do not hesitate to use it now, but in the 90’s it was not as good.

View RPhillips's profile

RPhillips

420 posts in 470 days


#5 posted 436 days ago

Nice looking door. I plan to install these types of door on my future workspace.

Speaking of Behr paints, I have found Behr Ultra to be my go to paint. I have tried a lot of paints over the years and the only two that have never let me down have been Behr and Sherwin Williams, but SW is not always as convenient and typically costs more then Behr. I’m referring mainly to interior paint, but the two times I used the exterior it was just as good.

-- Rob - Indianapolis IN - Learning... one mistake at a time...

View JCMeyersIV's profile

JCMeyersIV

71 posts in 700 days


#6 posted 434 days ago

Ok perfect. I’m also thinking of changing the door construction to a 2x frame with 1x slats. Right now it’s all 2x and its unreasonably heavy. I’m a pretty strong guy and I have to but my body into it.

-- John, NNY, www.facebook.com/JC4Woodworking

View Pete Pedisich's profile

Pete Pedisich

126 posts in 1281 days


#7 posted 434 days ago

View Pete Pedisich's profile

Pete Pedisich

126 posts in 1281 days


#8 posted 433 days ago

John,
HD and Lowes also carry 5/4 pine. Lowes 5/4 white pine has knots, but near me the HD carries 5/4 radiata pine and it’s clear, very nice.

Pete

View JCMeyersIV's profile

JCMeyersIV

71 posts in 700 days


#9 posted 432 days ago

Alright cool, thanks pete. I live near three lumber yards so i get all my pine locally. The nearest Lowes or HD is half an hour from me.

-- John, NNY, www.facebook.com/JC4Woodworking

View RJ2's profile

RJ2

88 posts in 2419 days


#10 posted 137 days ago

About to redo a 7 X 10, stamped steel door with a custom wood overlay carriage /Barn style wood . If it was done in solid 3/4 cedar, at 123 lbs a cubic ft, I am figuring that divided by 12 rollers it is only adding 12 lbs each at the most. I can weld up some more hangers on track , but would the track itself be fine. I am assuming so , but did not want to put a squeeze play on the wives Beemer. I at one point was looking for a faux type lightweight plastic wood, but I remember how heavy the real wood doors were I was replacing back in the 60’s, . It would be interesting if someone has attacked this , roll up carriage style door craze that seems to be going on now. I was figuring weight on the 3/4 ” wood but will go with a 3/8 background and 3/4 rails and stiles. Thanks RJ

-- RJ, Tampa Fl, RJMETALWOODS.COM

View RJ2's profile

RJ2

88 posts in 2419 days


#11 posted 17 days ago

I am in the process of installing mine today . Shown in the pic is the left side of the two panels . fitting in opening on a Rollup 7 X10 clopay door , Fabricated in African Mahogany and Cedar .I took a few pics along the way , if it comes out respectable , I will post them. Just bent up the Fake hinge wings and epoxied some nuts washer and bolt threads . I know you don’t have exposed nuts on a real hinge for security , but they just looked so nice, as opposed to a carriage bolt head . I keep having to adjust springs when adding the sections , will order new Springs when i get through today and weigh total door with hardware , after dealing tension . Got a feeling I will be opening the door manually for the wifey till the new springs come.

-- RJ, Tampa Fl, RJMETALWOODS.COM

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase