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Forum topic by whitegoodman posted 06-16-2013 06:46 AM 1302 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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whitegoodman

7 posts in 565 days


06-16-2013 06:46 AM

Topic tags/keywords: router joining question jig resource

Basically I need advice on putting together a router table I was thinking the most inexpensive Jessem router lift, laminated top and rail insert, and a router, what do you guys recommend for a router? and bits, I was thinking a 9 piece set of freud router bits, please help me out thanks!


20 replies so far

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2169 posts in 1596 days


#1 posted 06-16-2013 02:01 PM

If simplicity and low price appeal to you, I’d suggest you bypass the router lift and the rail insert.

One of my mentoring clients just finished a router table. All the hardware purchased was as follows:

2’ piano hinge
Insert
2 pairs of drawer slides
2 drawer pulls
two electrical boxes, a duplex outlet and a 20 amp switch
8’ electrical cord and a plug
two pieces of plastic laminate (scrap, actually) and a 1” MDF core

The rest was ply and solid stock he had in the shop.

He used a PC 690 router (which, with an additional base, gives him an easy-access hand held option).

He built a fence that incorporates dust collection via his shop vac, which can be plugged in to a switched outlet so it comes on when you turn on the router.

I can send you a pic of the table and a dimensioned sketch (snail mail) if you’re interested.

Perhaps you can tell that I feel the gizmos for a router table are oversold.

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

2033 posts in 1239 days


#2 posted 06-16-2013 02:43 PM

I’d also suggest you skip the lift, several routers are available with through the table adjustments eliminating the need for a lift. If want the big hoss, look at the Milwaukee 5625. In a slightly smaller router you can choose from several, including the Milwaukee 5615 (my favorite). Which ever one you buy make sure you have variable speed; that’s necessary for some of the larger bits. I guess by rail insert you mean miter track, and I put one in my RT, but to be honest it doesn’t get much use. I’d skip it, it can always be retrofitted. Freud router bits are good, but sets in general may get you a few that see little use. I’d buy the bits as needed, one at a time.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View josephf's profile

josephf

58 posts in 842 days


#3 posted 06-16-2013 02:46 PM

http://www.routerforums.com/ try this sight .So much info out there .depends on what you need and mostly what you want .I have three .Turns out I use the simple one as much as the other .Above table change has become less important .The fense is the big thing .

View redSLED's profile

redSLED

687 posts in 639 days


#4 posted 06-16-2013 03:10 PM

I’m beginning to think about an inexpensive router table setup also – some google pics for reference:





-- Perfection is the difference between too much and not enough.

View whitegoodman's profile

whitegoodman

7 posts in 565 days


#5 posted 06-16-2013 03:28 PM

IM looking for a router that is also optimal for a RT something in the 160 range. thanks!!!

View jusfine's profile

jusfine

2280 posts in 1672 days


#6 posted 06-16-2013 04:23 PM

I used sink cut-outs from construction sites for many years. I trimmed and edged them. You get a plastic laminate smooth flat top, I routed slots for the bolts-wing nuts and a simple L shaped fence. Easy to transport and store if room is a factor. and CHEAP!!

I now have some Jessem tables and lifts in a dedicated work shop, so it all depends on what you want to spend or your shop space available. I would make a simple top or table and spend more on the router and bits…

Really like my older Jessem (Canadian made) tables and lifts!

-- Randy "You are judged as much by the questions you ask as the answers you give..."

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2710 posts in 1323 days


#7 posted 06-16-2013 10:33 PM

For a table, start with this one, go from there in adding features you want/need.
For a router, I have a porter cable 690 in mine, it works great. Sometime soon I’ll bump it up to a bosch 1617evs for variable speed.
For bits, whiteside from hartville tool or holbren.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View josephf's profile

josephf

58 posts in 842 days


#8 posted 06-17-2013 04:28 AM

i will second last poster on the whiteside bits .the better bits are a better buy real fast .cheap and midrange bits ,and i loved the price did not cut as well ,last as long and thus were not really less money

View surfin2's profile

surfin2

51276 posts in 1882 days


#9 posted 06-17-2013 05:06 AM

If U go with NiteWalker’s post U can trace your router plate on the bottom of the table, route it out alittle, depending on the size (table top) U use. You’ll get more from the bit (sticking out from the table) mount router right 2 the table, plus U won’t have 2 use or make an insert….

-- Rick

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

7934 posts in 2798 days


#10 posted 06-17-2013 05:24 AM

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

7934 posts in 2798 days


#11 posted 06-17-2013 06:00 AM

Now, trying to define a good Router and Bits isl like trying to define a New Car and Special Features…

It depends on how you are going to USE the router…

1. Small projects, edge treatments (round-overs, Ogee, etc.), dados, rabbets, for small projects like boxes, frames, etc.

The Bosch Colt is a good choice. – Hand use NOT in a table.

.

2. Heavier duty work for furniture projects… without using large Panel cutting bits…

2-1/4 HP Combo Kits are nice... normal good brands in / out of table.

Triton 2-1/4 HP with lift control built-in is cool for IN or OUT of table work = Excellent choice.

.

3. Real Heavy Duty using large panel cutting bits a lot primarily in a router table.

Triton 3+HP with built-in Lift is an Excellent choice.

.

BITS:

Stay away from the large qty bit assortments… usually a waste of money…

Money ahead by ordering the bits you will be using the most such as: Straight bits, Round-overs, chamfers, rabbet kits (covering a nice range of sizes), pattern & Flush-trim bits, spiral Up/Down bits.
Other fancy stuff probably will not be used very often if at all… buy only if really needed.

Brands:

Whiteside is the one of the real BEST you can get... BUT, you pay for them & they LAST good too!
If you buy quality, you will be happier.

1/4” shafts for smaller routers like the Bosch Colt is about your only choice.

1/2” shafts, if you can use them, are better for higher quality cuts…
If you can avoid the 1/4” shafts, do so.

The above are my personal recommendations… Your personal likes could be different…

This will get you going on the right foot… I think…

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2710 posts in 1323 days


#12 posted 06-17-2013 01:50 PM

Rick, the main advantage of the inserts is bit sizes.
If your biggest bit is 1 1/2”, you’d drill a 1 3/4” hole and so on; but when you chuck a 1/4” bit in there the risk of workpiece edges catching or falling in becomes greater.

I really like the bit insert idea. No need for a router plate, which causes more problems than it solves.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View surfin2's profile

surfin2

51276 posts in 1882 days


#13 posted 06-20-2013 03:54 AM

NiteWalker, I know what you mean about inserts.

I went through that when I bought a Rockler plate with all the inserts.

I got the MagnaLOCK Router Plate cause I got sick of screwing the inserts in & out.

I was going with If simplicity and low price appeal to you go as simple as you can…

-- Rick

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2710 posts in 1323 days


#14 posted 06-20-2013 04:23 AM

The inserts are the main reason the magnalock plates are the best on the market. Others have easy to change inserts, but none can be adjusted for level like the incras.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View surfin2's profile

surfin2

51276 posts in 1882 days


#15 posted 06-20-2013 04:48 AM

That was one gamble/chance that I ‘m glad I took when I ordered it from online...

I also got the MagnaLOCK Ring Set total 11 Rings…

-- Rick

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