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Raw Linseed Oil Questions..

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Forum topic by flwoodie posted 413 days ago 698 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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flwoodie

26 posts in 436 days


413 days ago

I am making some kitchen/bar utensils, and I am trying to decide on a finish. From reading, linseed oil and beeswax sounds like a solid and long lasting finish. My main question is, how long should I let the linseed oil dry before reapplying, but most importantly, before letting the piece leave my shop to be used?


12 replies so far

View PineChopper's profile

PineChopper

175 posts in 801 days


#1 posted 413 days ago

I would use butcher’s block oil from Home Depot or Lowe’s.

View Dakkar's profile

Dakkar

297 posts in 532 days


#2 posted 413 days ago

I can’t say as I’ve adhered to this, but I once read an old cabinetmaker’s saying about linseed oil: You apply it once a day for a week, once a week for month and once a month for year. Anyway, I don’t think you can go wrong with the once a day part.

View joeob's profile

joeob

68 posts in 1934 days


#3 posted 413 days ago

Please use Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO). Raw linseed oil takes a very long time to dry. Its main use is waterproofing and in putty. Things that do not need drying out. Dakkars recomendation is correct (for BLO) and once a year there after. As to when to apply something else after i do not know. I would guess at a day or what ever tne maker of your chosen product recomends.

-- To finish something you must first start!

View Jay Wells's profile

Jay Wells

58 posts in 496 days


#4 posted 413 days ago

I’ve seen it recommended to not use wax in the mix for awhile.

Makes sense as it seals the wood before the oil can soak in all the way.

-- Find your limitations, and ignore them!

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

962 posts in 739 days


#5 posted 413 days ago

Please read before deciding on a finishing material.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/article/food-safe-finishes.aspx

Before using Boiled Linseed Oil, read Material safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for the product available locally.

Anything I make that contacts food products, will go with no finish, or simply mineral oil (laxative). I male rolling pins, scoops, and salad mixing & serving bowls. Only use close grain hardwood for my products. I give a bottle of mineral oil to my customers that request salad bowls so can reapply as needed.

Do not use baby oil or industrial mineral oils.

-- Bill

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

1655 posts in 1098 days


#6 posted 413 days ago

Someone else mentioned this, but if you put raw linseed oil on your piece and wait for it to cure it may never leave your shop!

-- I long for the days when Coke was a cola, and a joint was a bad place to be (Merle Haggard)

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1396 posts in 966 days


#7 posted 413 days ago

Linseed oil, raw or boiled, is only good for starting fires.

-- Clint Searl.............We deserve what we tolerate

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2253 days


#8 posted 413 days ago

beeswax is not a finish, and definitely not “long lasting” (it will rub off almost immediately during use)

raw linseed oil is not supposed to “dry” to put “another coat on” as it is a penetrating oil, and is meant to penetrate the wood and condition it (keep the wood from drying) – so theoretically you would be waiting “forever”. similar way goes with boiled linseed oil (don’t be expecting to use those projects in the kitchen anytime soon).

that aside – check with food safe materials what finishes are fitting to be used in the kitchen and in contact with food. like mentioned above, I only use mineral oil for kitchen items that have to do with contacting food for safety reasons. or a mix of mineral oil and beeswax for later applications (as the wax keeps the oil from penetrating)

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

1157 posts in 901 days


#9 posted 413 days ago

You can use any edible oil, even vegetable oil, but mineral oil is the only one that won’t turn rancid. Mineral oil. Did any one mention mineral oil yet?

View flwoodie's profile

flwoodie

26 posts in 436 days


#10 posted 413 days ago

Well, lol, that changes things I guess. So, then maybe a mineral oil or butcher block oil applied in coats?

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2253 days


#11 posted 413 days ago

butcher block oil = $$$ mineral oil (as in – it is mineral oil that you pay more for ;) ). and the terminology “coats” doesn’t apply to it as it does not build a film, so there isn’t any ‘coating’ that takes place – it’s a penetrating oil.

the proper way to do mineral oil is:
  • apply oil to wood – let it soak
  • after 10-15 minutes, wipe excess oil with a rag
  • once wood seems dry rinse and repeat above 2 steps until the wood doesn’t seem to absorb any more oil.

for new projects – apply above procedure every couple of months for first year or so, then every so often when it seems like the wood is dry and need reconditioning.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Finisherman's profile

Finisherman

190 posts in 454 days


#12 posted 413 days ago

I strongly advise you against the use of raw linseed oil on your bar utensils, or any other wooden surface. Raw linseed oil takes forever to cure. If you must use linseed oil, at least use the boiled variety. Basically though, this is one of those times that I agree with Clint. I think that you’d be better off to use waterlox or Armour seal. Mohawk also sells a salad bowl oil which should serve you well. Any of these will dry faster and cure harder than either boiled or raw linseed oil.

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