|Forum topic by Millo||posted 06-11-2013 03:32 PM||1105 views||0 times favorited||0 replies|
06-11-2013 03:32 PM
Not sure this is the right place to post this.
I know lots of people have built this plan: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/42814
Here are a few questions regarding assembly sequence, etc:
1) When I first saw the plan’s diagram before reading the instructions, I assumed that what was logical was to first glue the legs in order to cut the trims to fit tin between as close as possible. But I am an ignorant eternal novice because I don’t have my own workshop, so nope: the plan asks to glue the plywood case, then screw it together, then add the front trim, then the legs. Is it because this way the legs can register on the edges of the upper and lower front trims as well as the plywood edge of the sides? In other plans I’ve read of similar design (not a face frame but with applied edge trim), the trim is suggested to be added BEFORE putting together the case, like on Popular Woodworking magazine’s contemporary sideboard from not too long ago. I guess the reason for this sequence MIGHT allow for more careful application and flushing of the trim.
So, those who built this: did you glue the thing in the order of the plan? Did you glue the front upper/lower trim before gluing the case? Did you glue the legs after building the case but before the upper/lower trims? By the way, I plan to make the legs and lower trims SLIGHTLY curvy, but with the bandsaw/router template technique.
2) Just gluing the legs, etc seems a bit weak to me. I spoke with a pro and told him I was thinking to attach them with a spline, and he suggested biscuiting the legs would make it stronger. Essentially, it seems to me a plywood case is pretty heavy for just gluing front legs to its sides/ edges. I understand the back legs are glued to the face, which is a pretty strong bond, plus the are those “leg fillers”. I want this thing to last for yeeeaars, so I do plan to make the front legs support the case weight a bit more securely, if possible.
3) The top is solid and attached to the case with slotted holes in the back of the case to allow for movement. This attachment method would also help in avoiding extreme cupping of the top. The “backsplah” on the back is attached to the one board so it is unaffected. However, I wanted to add lateral ‘fences’. Lower ones. So, I thought that in order to avoid movement conflict I could do one of these two things: a) add breadboard ends, and have these lateral ‘fences’ glue alongside the breadboard ends.; or b) screw these ‘fences’ and use slotted holes to one of the sides.
I think the breadboard option would be more aesthetically-pleasing. I plan to make the top out of maple, the backsplash/back-cap of maple plywood and the cap out of it solid cherry. If making breadboard ends, these would be cherry.
4) I want the drawer faces to be solid maple, no edging. So, my plan is to attach to poplar drawer cases with screws, but allowing for wood movement with slotted screwholes on the top and bottom while the middle screwholes are tight. Does that make sense?