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Delta jt160 jointer problem

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Forum topic by Shane posted 06-11-2013 07:52 AM 1774 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Shane

293 posts in 1271 days


06-11-2013 07:52 AM

I’ve had this for a week and I got it used. Twice now it has stopped working ie won’t come on at all. The first time I fixed it by opening it up and blowing out the wood shavings but no such luck this time. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance


13 replies so far

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Ralph

166 posts in 1593 days


#1 posted 06-11-2013 09:14 AM

It sounds like an intermittent connection. Could be anywhere. You’ll need a voltmeter of some kind. Accuracy is not required. Proceed with care! Prepare all conditions by first removing the power plug from the outlet.

First- if you have access to the jointer’s power switch, with the switch off measure/check the presence of 120/240 power at the plug side of the switch. if no power, the power plug or the source is faulty.

Second- if the power plug/source is OK, carefully turn on the jointer’s power switch. If the motor does not run, check for power at the motor side of the switch. If no power present, the switch is faulty.

Third- if the switch is OK. With the switch in the ON position, and the motor not running, CAREFULLY check for power at the motor terminals. If power is not present, the wire/connection to the motor is faulty.

Fourth- if power is present at the motor terminals, and the motor does not run, the fault is at the motor. At this point, you need to take the motor apart. If the motor does not hum when the jointer malfunctions (which from your description I assume is the case), then neither the running or starting winding is exited. The problem is most likely at the motor’s connection block to which both the running and starting winding are connected.

No magic here, you can start anywhere is the test sequence.

Best of luck- intermittent connections are a royal pain to trouble shoot!

-- The greatest risk is not taking one...

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Shane

293 posts in 1271 days


#2 posted 06-11-2013 11:04 AM

Ok I’ll grab the multimeter and start running through it as soon as I can.

There is no motor hum when the switch is on and the jointer is plugged in. Given the fact that I fixed the problem the first time by blowing the wood chips out of the compartment that houses the speed selector circuitry, I imagine that the problem is in there. I have no idea if that is a replaceable part or not.

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Shane

293 posts in 1271 days


#3 posted 06-11-2013 12:39 PM

I just looked and the speed controller is a replaceable part but it costs more than I paid for the jointer. Hopefully it will be something else simple that I can fix…

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Shane

293 posts in 1271 days


#4 posted 06-11-2013 05:55 PM

Well it’s definitely the speed controller that’s causing the problems. In the course of testing it, it started working again. Hopefully if I leave the speed selector knob where it is and don’t touch it, it will stay alive. I’m just not paying $136 for a part to fix a $100 jointer.

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MrUnix

4207 posts in 1659 days


#5 posted 06-11-2013 07:15 PM

That speed controller is adjusted by a regular potentiometer (variable resistor), and over time and lack of use, the internal contact areas will oxidize and cause problems. Since your problem is intermittent and you said it was a used machine, that is most likely the culprit. Sometimes you can get them back to working order by simply turning the knob back and forth a bunch of times to remove the oxidation. A good shot of contact cleaner would help as well. One other possibility would be a loose connection on the board, such as a cold solder joint or a trace that is starting to lift. Not as common, but fairly easy to detect if you yank the board to inspect.

As a last resort, you can bypass the speed control and run it as a single speed machine at whatever the fastest speed is.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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Shane

293 posts in 1271 days


#6 posted 06-12-2013 12:10 AM

I’m having trouble pulling the board because a screw is inserted backwards and I can’t get a driver on it. I had the same thought about bypassing but when I tried that it didn’t work but I only disconnected the black wire and not the white so I probably still had an open circuit. Where can I get contact cleaner? Thanks for the info and I will try the knob twisting tip next time.

View Ralph's profile

Ralph

166 posts in 1593 days


#7 posted 06-12-2013 03:04 AM

I would completely disconnect the board, and match like color wires.
I doubt Radio Shack will have any contact cleaner, but if there is one near you, you can try them. You can try www.digikey.com, or www.mouser.com, on the internet. They are electronic component distributors who handle small orders. They have decent customer service.
By the way, if the speed control pot is ‘noisy’, as you turn the speed control over its range, you should be able to make the unit run, even intermittently. If you can’t make the motor run as you turn the pot from side to side, either the problem is elsewhere, of the pot is completely gone.
If you feel comfortable around electronics, or have someone who is, you can replace the pot. You first have to measure its resistance value, and order a ‘fit-and-form’ replacement from either of the two above companies.

-- The greatest risk is not taking one...

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Shane

293 posts in 1271 days


#8 posted 06-12-2013 01:03 PM

I only know enough to be dangerous when it comes to electronics, unfortunately. I’m not even sure what you mean when you say “pot”.

The knob doesn’t make any sound when I turn it, and it seems to just quit at random. As of right now it’s still working but I imagine it’s only a matter of time before it goes out again. Both times that has happened, it started working when I was messing around with the circuit board for the speed controller. First time just to blow dust out, and the second while attempting to do a volt test on the contacts coming in from the switch.

I wish I could figure out a way to get that backwards screw out so I could pull the board and look for loose solders etc…

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Ralph

166 posts in 1593 days


#9 posted 06-12-2013 03:38 PM

The “pot” is like a volume control, the thing you turn to change speed.
How are the connections to the board made? Are they screw terminals or removable connectors?
If there are connectors (the type you can plug in and out), maybe the problem is there. Use contact cleaner to clean out the contact.

-- The greatest risk is not taking one...

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Shane

293 posts in 1271 days


#10 posted 06-12-2013 04:44 PM

They are removable connectors.

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Ralph

166 posts in 1593 days


#11 posted 06-13-2013 02:26 AM

The problem could be there. ‘Clean’ the contacts by removing and re-inserting the connectors a few times. Blow out the connectors. See if that helps.

-- The greatest risk is not taking one...

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Shane

293 posts in 1271 days


#12 posted 06-16-2013 02:16 PM

Well it died again. I think I’m just going to bypass the speed controller and wire the switch directly to the motor. This is getting old…

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Shane

293 posts in 1271 days


#13 posted 06-17-2013 12:46 AM

Rewire complete and it’s working. Hopefully this is the last time I will have to deal with this and hopefully the speed being on max at all times won’t cause me problems for some reason.

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