Sliding Table Saw Attachement

Get a Ryobi BT-3000 off Craigslist for about $140 and save many $$. The sliding table is included.

-- Love thy neighbour as thyself

Perhaps a track saw would serve you better or a shop made track saw, I have owned a BT 3000 and it’s slider is more sutable for making boxes than cabinets. Besides the slider being to small the saw is so light it tends to tip over when trying cut larger sheets of sheet goods

-- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/

Crosscut or panel sled is also an option. Even cheaper than a used BT-3000.

I’ve used them, and they can work well. A friend of mine has the Jessem. I choose to build sleds and spend the money elsewhere. A perfectly serviceable sled can be built in under an hour, in any size needed. As an extra bonus, zero clearance cut support is included for free!

I think if I were heavily using a sliding table, I’d probably sell my cabinet saw in favor of a Euro slider.

-- It's all good, if it's wood...

the real benefit of a true slider is the fact that the sliding table is adjacent to the blade – so you have full support of the part being cut.

the after market sliding tables attach to the left of the base TS table so the sliding table is a good ~12” away from the blade so you cannot really support the part as close to the blade as well.

am I being overly anal about it? possibly. But I would rather use a sled which would allow me to clamp and support my parts an inch away from the blade as opposed to 12” away from it (which I do by the way).

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

I have the jessum and wouldn’t trade it for a sled ever. The largest I have crosscut with it was 42”. I also love the built in stop that lets you cut pieces up to 48” wide repeatedly.

The reason I switched from a sled to the jessum slider was I was tired of having to find a place to store the stinking sled and the slider is safer with wider and longer pieces as it won’t tip because the the size of the piece your cutting.

As for zero clearance that’s all just a bunch of bull as with the proper blade you won’t have tear out.

The Robland sliding table attachment is probably the
best one that doesn’t require additional legs (which
pretty much makes the table saw non-mobile, if
that matters to you).

The Jessem is accurate, but cannot support substantial
loads since it bolts on like a wing without any triangulate
support underneath. I had one and it’s a pretty neat
tool. You have to take the miter fence off a lot to
rip since it doesn’t pull very far back. This is an issue
with all sliding tables except a couple very nice ones
like Altendorf where the fence flips down below the
surface plane of the saw.

The best ones are the big ones like the Excaliber but
they require a big footprint.

I have a saw with a fully built in sliding table. It is my second such saw and I would not change it for the world, go for it, it is a great investment over a standard saw with a wooden slider in the mitre gauge.Talk about chalk and cheese Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

Thanks for the response. It helps a lot.

-- Bryan