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Ripping thick maple - she got 'er done!

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Forum topic by Sandra posted 06-04-2013 01:19 AM 1119 views 1 time favorited 43 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Sandra

4631 posts in 765 days


06-04-2013 01:19 AM

Topic tags/keywords: table saw blade maple question

Next step in my workbench build is ripping maple for my benchtop. Some of the pieces are close to 3” thick.

I have a Bosch 4000 10” contractor saw with the 40-tooth carbide tip blade that came with it. The only other TS blade I have is for plywood and plastics. (can’t remember how many teeth, but at least 80 with shallow gullets.)

Now I’m fairly certain my 40 tooth blade is not up to ripping anything that thick. In fact, I’m worried about whether the saw will be up to it. What type of blade would you suggest I try? And any other suggestions about ripping such thick stock??

Thanks -

I ran the boards through the planer today – here’s the nicest pile of shavings I’ve ever seen!

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.


43 replies so far

View firefighterontheside's profile

firefighterontheside

4896 posts in 546 days


#1 posted 06-04-2013 01:30 AM

I bet a nice Freud ripping blade would do it. I would say 24 teeth.

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.

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firefighterontheside

4896 posts in 546 days


#2 posted 06-04-2013 01:32 AM

BTW that’s a nice planer cart. I need to do that.

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.

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Sandra

4631 posts in 765 days


#3 posted 06-04-2013 01:35 AM

Thanks FF. The planer cart has served me well. Hopefully HD will have what I need here in town.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

11242 posts in 1380 days


#4 posted 06-04-2013 01:41 AM

Sandra, I would try a 24 tooth thin kerf rip blade (Diablo from HD is an inexpensive blade that works well for me). If this is still too much for your saw , you may have to rip halfway through, flip, and finish from the other side.

Not sure if you have hard or soft maple. 3” of hard maple will be more than your saw wants in one pass for sure.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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patron

13103 posts in 2031 days


#5 posted 06-04-2013 01:41 AM

a couple of ways i can think of sandra

run 1 edge straight on the jointer
and on the band saw rip slightly oversize
and on edge thru the planer again to final width

same with the table saw
but just set it at 1 5/8” heighth
and flipping the wood end over end
cut it twice (once each side)
and do the same with the planer

the main stock needs to be run back across the jointer each time
to give another straight edge

done right you should be able to make a pile of rough cut one side pieces
ready for the planer that way
and do that process all at once

i usually cut even up to 1/8”and watching the grain if it might be wandering some
do the part jointer face down to the planer table
with the top grain going up as it comes into the planer knives not against them
then flipping end over end again
do the original jointer face too just in case

some times the board may have a slight dip here or there
those i just plane and extra 1/32” after i see that problem
and just take the original edge down the other 1/32”
to make them all even
that last pass all are done to the same setting
(even if i have to cheat 1/64” to get them all the same

hope i’m not to confusing here

whoopee on all that saw dust !

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

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AandCstyle

1381 posts in 947 days


#6 posted 06-04-2013 01:43 AM

You could use your band saw for the ripping, if you have one. Oops, David beat me to it. :)

-- Art

View pmayer's profile

pmayer

597 posts in 1755 days


#7 posted 06-04-2013 01:45 AM

Even with a good 24 tooth ripping blade I think that’s too much maple for that saw. I would do it the same way that David described if you have a decent band saw.

-- PaulMayer, http://www.vernswoodgoods.com

View RonInOhio's profile

RonInOhio

720 posts in 1554 days


#8 posted 06-04-2013 01:45 AM

Cutting it halfway through on one pass and flippping it for the second on the TS sounds like a good suggestion.

And I pretty sure those Diablo 24 T blades are only around 9.99 at HD.

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Sandra

4631 posts in 765 days


#9 posted 06-04-2013 01:47 AM

Thanks David,

Not confused, I think I follow you. It’s hard maple, so you’re right in that I don’t imagine my saw can handle it in one pass. I have the boards jointed on one side so far for use at the TS

Art – I do have a Rikon 10-325 which I’ve only had a few months. My first attempt at resawing was through a 5” wide, 2” thick piece of walnut. It was atrociously slow and a lousy cut to boot. I have to figure out the resawing better before tackling anything else.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View Sandra's profile

Sandra

4631 posts in 765 days


#10 posted 06-04-2013 01:53 AM

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/freud-10-in-diablo-ripping-blade-24-teeth/973187

Is this the right type of blade?

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View Don W's profile

Don W

15245 posts in 1257 days


#11 posted 06-04-2013 01:57 AM

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2959 posts in 976 days


#12 posted 06-04-2013 01:58 AM

If the pieces are not too long, I’d use my bandsaw. I can tell you my Ridgid 4512 has cut 4” walnut like butter with a frued thin kerf 80t. You just go a little slower and let the blade do the work.

BTW have you ever seen a pile of shavings like that catch fire? Don’t use it for landscaping….just in case you were thinking of it. I speak from experience.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

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Sandra

4631 posts in 765 days


#13 posted 06-04-2013 01:59 AM

Don – As if….;)

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View AandCstyle's profile

AandCstyle

1381 posts in 947 days


#14 posted 06-04-2013 02:01 AM

The issue is likely your BS blade. Get either a Timberwolf from Suffolk Machinery or a Woodslicer from Highland. I use a 3 tpi 1/2” blade most of the time and have resawn 8” oak on a 14” Jet without any problems. HTH

-- Art

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Sandra

4631 posts in 765 days


#15 posted 06-04-2013 02:01 AM

The pieces are 62-66” long. I may get the Freud blade and cut the thinner pieces first, see how I make out. When I get to the thicker pieces, I think I’ll try the suggestion of cutting 1/2 way through.

I guess I can justify the cost of the blade with the fact that the maple was only $1.50 bf

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

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