LumberJocks

Looking for an insert plate for a Ryobi plunge router.

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by bhacksaw posted 05-29-2013 08:11 AM 2823 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View bhacksaw's profile

bhacksaw

50 posts in 578 days


05-29-2013 08:11 AM

I’m looking to make a cheapo router table (basically, just plywood with an insert plate recess routed into it) and am looking for an insert plate that will fit a Ryobi 2 HP Plunge Router RE180-1PL. Also, is there any benefit to using phenolic rather than aluminum? I’ve heard that phenolic plates are often not level.

My first post! Thanks for the help!


10 replies so far

View toolie's profile

toolie

1774 posts in 1382 days


#1 posted 05-30-2013 02:21 AM

if a very inexpensive router table is your objective, skip the insert plate entirely. remove the base form the router and use it as a template for locating mounting holes for the router on the bottom of a piece of flat plywood. drill a hole for the bit, reattach the base to the router, mount the router to the underside of the plywood and off you go.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

3613 posts in 1948 days


#2 posted 05-30-2013 03:28 AM

Now that’s cheap…...not real practical for a lot of applications, but definitely cheap…...!!!

-- " I started with nothing, and I've still got most of it left".......

View bhacksaw's profile

bhacksaw

50 posts in 578 days


#3 posted 05-30-2013 05:07 PM

Hmm… I guess all i was looking for with the insert plate was to make sure the surface remained flat. But, for the coast of the plate, I can just replace the plywood MANY times over if it warps. I’ll give that a shot.

I’m thinking I should laminate 2 plywood boards on top of each other to fend off warping. Should I laminate them cross-grained? Does that even matter with plywood?

View oldnovice's profile

oldnovice

3872 posts in 2121 days


#4 posted 05-30-2013 07:00 PM

I suugest skipping the plywood and use 1” thick MDF (you will lose 1” of routing depth unless you relieve the underside). You can make a good insert plate out of 1/2” Baltic birch or almost any plastic; i.e. Plexiglas, poly carbonate, ABS, my favorite UHMW as it’s slippery and machines easily. Check for plate deflection regardless of the weight of the router!

If you want you can add covering to it for a more durable finish.

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3574 posts in 1567 days


#5 posted 05-30-2013 07:26 PM

Plunge routers are not the best for a router table, because you have to fight the plunge spring to make adjustments.

You might try Rockler for a plate. Bench Dog makes good aluminum plates that are pre-drilled for common routers. Worst case, you might have to drill new mounting holes.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View oldnovice's profile

oldnovice

3872 posts in 2121 days


#6 posted 05-30-2013 11:03 PM

pintodeluxe some plunge models can be modified to work in a RT and, in fact, the are kits available to make adjustments that use a screw similar to a route lift. The only problem with these types of lifts is that they cannot raise the router above the plate since they use the router mechanics as opposed to add-on lift hardware.

Rockler Raizer is one of these!

And at the other cost end is my favorite!

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View 404 - Not Found's profile

404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 1723 days


#7 posted 05-30-2013 11:13 PM

When I win the lottery, I will have a workshop equipped with all manner of fancy-pants machinery and accessories, until then, I will make do with simpler things you can get off ebay to do tasks such as raise and lower a plunge router in a router table.

View oldnovice's profile

oldnovice

3872 posts in 2121 days


#8 posted 05-31-2013 12:40 AM

renners, that is what I was looking for in my previous, #6, post. All I could find was the Router Raizer! That is definitely the low cost and good solution. Again, this will need offset wrenches as the router cannot be raised above the table to change bits.

I don’t have a router lift but if I did it would be the one I pictured in #6 post!

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View cutworm's profile

cutworm

1068 posts in 1547 days


#9 posted 05-31-2013 12:49 AM

I bought a blank plate and just drilled the mounting holes myself. Worked well. 30 bucks for the plate.
http://www.routertabledepot.com/deacin.html

-- Steve - "Never Give Up"

View bhacksaw's profile

bhacksaw

50 posts in 578 days


#10 posted 07-23-2014 09:21 PM

A belated Thank you, friends. I ended up just drilling some holes through a laminated shelf I got from HD. Used it as a clamp-on router table. It worked fine until I got some ants in my pants, then I just built my own table:

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase