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Forum topic by RussellAP posted 05-29-2013 02:54 AM 722 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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RussellAP

2966 posts in 1040 days


05-29-2013 02:54 AM

My dewalt miter saw needs a new blade.
I want one that has a smooth cut without tearout. I wonder if a thin kerf would work.

Any of you guy have a blade you like with no tear out and nice smooth cuts?

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.


12 replies so far

View nwbusa's profile

nwbusa

1017 posts in 1040 days


#1 posted 05-29-2013 03:25 AM

Forrest Chopmaster 80T full kerf is what I run on my DWS780. Glass smooth cuts every time.

-- John, BC, Canada

View Loren's profile

Loren

7831 posts in 2402 days


#2 posted 05-29-2013 03:29 AM

Not thin kerf. Aside from plate stiffness, tooth
geometry and sharpness is what it’s about.

A slider cuts different than a chopper.

Look on ebay for Onsrud blades. They sell overstock
for cheap. Good blades.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View josephf's profile

josephf

58 posts in 850 days


#3 posted 05-29-2013 03:45 AM

subjective question . i own a lot of 12” blades .Heck I have 4/12” saws . The forest are my best . Thin curf do not do so well on 12” saws . I am not a freud fan, the ones I had were ok ,I have bought better for less money . Without knowing what your cutting pretty tuff to say more . If you go a forest -you resharpen it and keep it for many many cuts

View David Dean's profile

David Dean

540 posts in 1653 days


#4 posted 05-29-2013 08:01 AM

Well RussellAP I know your not to king on Diablo but I have been useing a 80T in my 12” saw miter saw and it cut’s rough oak boards right down to furniture parts and they have been clean cuts from start to finish and I here that they have a 90T and 100T but its somthing to think about.

View Bluepine38's profile

Bluepine38

2954 posts in 1839 days


#5 posted 05-29-2013 01:54 PM

When I bought my Delta CMS the blade that came with it was good for construction, such as cutting trek
deck boards square, so I bought a Tenryu Miter-pro 12” by 80 tooth blade that I use for finer work and it
is still producing smooth accurate cuts. I got a deal on the blade since I was buying a new saw, but that
was 6 or 7 years ago and I can not remember the price.

-- As ever, Gus-the 76 yr young apprentice carpenter

View Nicky's profile

Nicky

636 posts in 2846 days


#6 posted 05-29-2013 03:23 PM

The Forrest chopmaster. I use one with a negative hook on my dewalt 12” slider. Glass smooth cuts, splinter free in solids and ply.

It has plenty of carbide to resharpen. A bit expensive compared to other offerings.

This is not an all purpose blade. It’s used specifically for my furniture projects where I want the best cut. I have the time to change blades as I’m a hobbyist and do not have any production deadlines.

-- Nicky

View Ripthorn's profile

Ripthorn

799 posts in 1739 days


#7 posted 05-29-2013 03:38 PM

I have one of the new Irwin Marples saw blades on mine. It works pretty well, though there is some slight splintering. Then again, a quick ZCI eliminates the tearout at 90 and such really easily. A CMS ZCI is about as dead simple as they come. The blade itself was about $40 at Lowes. Top of the line? Nope, but quite nice for the price, large teeth for resharpening, etc.

-- Brian T. - Exact science is not an exact science

View EEngineer's profile

EEngineer

906 posts in 2367 days


#8 posted 05-29-2013 04:00 PM

+1 on Diablo 80 tooth (though mine doesn’t look like David Dean’s). If I take my time and don’t rush it, consistent finish cuts for furniture are the norm.

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View Planeman40's profile

Planeman40

513 posts in 1515 days


#9 posted 05-29-2013 04:59 PM

I’m going to make an outrageous recommendation that will get me condemned by almost everyone.

I recommend the Harbor Freight 12” 96 tooth carbide blade for $29! http://www.harborfreight.com/12-inch-96-tooth-alternate-top-bevel-crosscut-blade-46235.html I bought this blade to be able to make very rarely needed deep cuts on my Hammer K3 sliding table saw as I had a very nice and very expensive 10” blade that I preferred. I had to send the 12 “saw blade to Forrest blades to have the arbor hole re-punched to fit the Hammer saw, but even with this it saved me $70. I figured it was worth a gamble. Well, the blade worked so well I have left it on the saw and put the expensive blade aside. Cuts are smooth as a baby’s bottom and the blade runs true. I’ve had it on the saw for about 6 months now with no regrets.

Planeman

-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2966 posts in 1040 days


#10 posted 05-29-2013 10:47 PM

I found that I was rushing the saw. I slowed down and the DeWalt blade is working fine. Only some very soft cedar will tear out.

Thanks guys. At least I know what to get next time.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5610 posts in 2129 days


#11 posted 05-30-2013 09:34 AM

For a 12” blade, I’d stick with full kerf. High tooth count, and a Hi-ATB grind will give the cleanest possible cut with the least amount of tearout.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2966 posts in 1040 days


#12 posted 05-30-2013 11:50 AM

Knotscott, I’m looking at a 80t Frued, but I found that the DeWalt I have now works better when I slow down. I have a tendency to ‘chop’ with the saw instead of going slow. It cuts real nice when you slow down. It’s an old habit from my construction days.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

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