12" blade

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by RussellAP posted 451 days ago 670 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View RussellAP's profile


2944 posts in 913 days

451 days ago

My dewalt miter saw needs a new blade.
I want one that has a smooth cut without tearout. I wonder if a thin kerf would work.

Any of you guy have a blade you like with no tear out and nice smooth cuts?

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

12 replies so far

View nwbusa's profile


1016 posts in 913 days

#1 posted 451 days ago

Forrest Chopmaster 80T full kerf is what I run on my DWS780. Glass smooth cuts every time.

-- John, BC, Canada

View Loren's profile


7399 posts in 2275 days

#2 posted 451 days ago

Not thin kerf. Aside from plate stiffness, tooth
geometry and sharpness is what it’s about.

A slider cuts different than a chopper.

Look on ebay for Onsrud blades. They sell overstock
for cheap. Good blades.


View josephf's profile


52 posts in 723 days

#3 posted 451 days ago

subjective question . i own a lot of 12” blades .Heck I have 4/12” saws . The forest are my best . Thin curf do not do so well on 12” saws . I am not a freud fan, the ones I had were ok ,I have bought better for less money . Without knowing what your cutting pretty tuff to say more . If you go a forest -you resharpen it and keep it for many many cuts

View David Dean's profile

David Dean

510 posts in 1526 days

#4 posted 451 days ago

Well RussellAP I know your not to king on Diablo but I have been useing a 80T in my 12” saw miter saw and it cut’s rough oak boards right down to furniture parts and they have been clean cuts from start to finish and I here that they have a 90T and 100T but its somthing to think about.

View Bluepine38's profile


2876 posts in 1712 days

#5 posted 450 days ago

When I bought my Delta CMS the blade that came with it was good for construction, such as cutting trek
deck boards square, so I bought a Tenryu Miter-pro 12” by 80 tooth blade that I use for finer work and it
is still producing smooth accurate cuts. I got a deal on the blade since I was buying a new saw, but that
was 6 or 7 years ago and I can not remember the price.

-- As ever, Gus-the 75 yr young apprentice carpenter

View Nicky's profile


636 posts in 2719 days

#6 posted 450 days ago

The Forrest chopmaster. I use one with a negative hook on my dewalt 12” slider. Glass smooth cuts, splinter free in solids and ply.

It has plenty of carbide to resharpen. A bit expensive compared to other offerings.

This is not an all purpose blade. It’s used specifically for my furniture projects where I want the best cut. I have the time to change blades as I’m a hobbyist and do not have any production deadlines.

-- Nicky

View Ripthorn's profile


746 posts in 1612 days

#7 posted 450 days ago

I have one of the new Irwin Marples saw blades on mine. It works pretty well, though there is some slight splintering. Then again, a quick ZCI eliminates the tearout at 90 and such really easily. A CMS ZCI is about as dead simple as they come. The blade itself was about $40 at Lowes. Top of the line? Nope, but quite nice for the price, large teeth for resharpening, etc.

-- Brian T. - Exact science is not an exact science

View EEngineer's profile


887 posts in 2240 days

#8 posted 450 days ago

+1 on Diablo 80 tooth (though mine doesn’t look like David Dean’s). If I take my time and don’t rush it, consistent finish cuts for furniture are the norm.

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View Planeman40's profile


470 posts in 1388 days

#9 posted 450 days ago

I’m going to make an outrageous recommendation that will get me condemned by almost everyone.

I recommend the Harbor Freight 12” 96 tooth carbide blade for $29! I bought this blade to be able to make very rarely needed deep cuts on my Hammer K3 sliding table saw as I had a very nice and very expensive 10” blade that I preferred. I had to send the 12 “saw blade to Forrest blades to have the arbor hole re-punched to fit the Hammer saw, but even with this it saved me $70. I figured it was worth a gamble. Well, the blade worked so well I have left it on the saw and put the expensive blade aside. Cuts are smooth as a baby’s bottom and the blade runs true. I’ve had it on the saw for about 6 months now with no regrets.


-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

View RussellAP's profile


2944 posts in 913 days

#10 posted 450 days ago

I found that I was rushing the saw. I slowed down and the DeWalt blade is working fine. Only some very soft cedar will tear out.

Thanks guys. At least I know what to get next time.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View knotscott's profile


5418 posts in 2002 days

#11 posted 449 days ago

For a 12” blade, I’d stick with full kerf. High tooth count, and a Hi-ATB grind will give the cleanest possible cut with the least amount of tearout.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View RussellAP's profile


2944 posts in 913 days

#12 posted 449 days ago

Knotscott, I’m looking at a 80t Frued, but I found that the DeWalt I have now works better when I slow down. I have a tendency to ‘chop’ with the saw instead of going slow. It cuts real nice when you slow down. It’s an old habit from my construction days.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics :: gardening showcase