What router accessorie(s) do I need for this?

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Forum topic by Hmlee posted 05-28-2013 07:53 PM 712 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Hmlee's profile


16 posts in 963 days

05-28-2013 07:53 PM

Hi all. So, let’s say I have some 6/4 oak and I’d like to create some channels across the middle of the boards in order to be able to fill witha casting resin. I had planned on using a router to do this work, but I’m fairly new to routers and also have read that it’s relatively difficult to free-hand straight lines using a router. I’m sure that there are some accessories out there that would make this task easier, but I don’t really know where to start.

Any ideas?

7 replies so far

View BTimmons's profile


2282 posts in 1524 days

#1 posted 05-28-2013 07:55 PM

Sounds to me like you need one of these.

-- Brian Timmons -

View PurpLev's profile


8520 posts in 2687 days

#2 posted 05-28-2013 07:57 PM

what he said. or one of those edge guides:

and a router bit depending on the shape of the casting you are intending to create of course.

for this particular type of channeling/routing it is best to use a plunge router.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View rrww's profile


263 posts in 1152 days

#3 posted 05-28-2013 07:58 PM

If you want perfectly straight lines you will need to buy / build something like this:

Some routers have a guide that comes with them when new. You can search router guide there are many different options.

Good luck!

View Rob's profile


704 posts in 2110 days

#4 posted 05-28-2013 08:00 PM

Use a router table or a guide. It’s easy to build your own table or guide using a drill, jigsaw or circular saw, pieces of scrap plywood, 2 or 3 screws, and a couple nuts & bolts or machine screws to attach the router to the table/guide.

Or, if nothing else, you could just clamp a straightedge across the boards offset by the distance from the outside of your router plate to your router bit, and just push the router along the straightedge.

Also, the general recommendation is to make several shallow passes with your router bit, as opposed to doing it all in one cut. Someone please correct me if I’m wrong, but I think it was no more than 1/3 of the router bit’s diameter per pass, assuming a 1” or smaller bit.

-- Ask an expert or be the expert -

View Loren's profile


7967 posts in 2687 days

#5 posted 05-28-2013 09:10 PM

I make a t-shaped jig out of scrap with a bolt attaching the
pieces together. This way it can be adjusted to as square
or out-of square as you like. Sandpaper can be glued or
double-faced taped to the parts where it pivots to prevent
it from easily getting out of whack. You cut as you push
the router away, but be careful to apply firm pressure to
keep prevent divots in one side of the channel.

Another way to do it is to make a similar jig but where
the router rides snugly between two strips of wood
nailed to a thin piece of plywood. You cut a groove in
the plywood first so the ends must not be cut, just
the center. Then you lay the plywood cutout over your
layout lines, clamp the jig in place, and route away. If
you are unsure of your ability to run the router against
a straight edge without making divots, this second
jig is the way to go.


View gfadvm's profile


13765 posts in 1729 days

#6 posted 05-29-2013 01:41 AM

Loren’s 2 board jig is definitely the way to do straight lines! If you allow the router to wander off your single straight edge, that project is now firewood! Don’t ask how I learned this.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View a1Jim's profile


113725 posts in 2616 days

#7 posted 05-29-2013 01:48 AM

Like others have said just a straight piece of wood will work or one of these.

-- Custom furniture

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