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Stubborn Blade Screws

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Forum topic by thelt posted 05-28-2013 09:27 AM 665 views 1 time favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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thelt

661 posts in 2839 days


05-28-2013 09:27 AM

Can anybody help me with some stubborn screws that hold the blade of my Ryobi Planer? I’ve tried soaking with WD-40, Liquid Wrench and a few other lubricants. I still can’t get half of ‘em out. I want to sharpen the blades but can’t get them out of the d%$# planer.

-- When asked what I did to make life worthwhile in my lifetime....I can respond with a great deal of pride and satisfaction, "I served a career in the United States Navy."


6 replies so far

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knotscott

7207 posts in 2835 days


#1 posted 05-28-2013 09:34 AM

If you’ve got an impact driver, find the appropriate bit and try that. Works like a charm for me.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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booklikeabook

2 posts in 1420 days


#2 posted 05-28-2013 11:24 AM

Penetrating Oil
Machinist’s Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.

Significant results!

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a “scientifically rusted” environment.

Penetrating oil ….. Average load
None …................... 516 pounds

WD-40 …................. 238 pounds

PB Blaster …........... 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench ….... 127 pounds

Kano Kroil …............ 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix…....53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a “home brew” mix of 50 – 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.

Note the “home brew” was better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.

Note also that “Liquid Wrench” is about as good as “Kroil” for about 20% of the price.

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lumberjoe

2893 posts in 1708 days


#3 posted 05-28-2013 01:26 PM

I’ll have to try that out! I use straight diesel (or kerosene) which works really well but is a little dangerous

-- https://pinepointwoodworks.wordpress.com/

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jack1

2057 posts in 3487 days


#4 posted 05-28-2013 06:00 PM

An old mechanic taught me to first “tighten” the screw a little bit then try backing them out. This action will break a bond that might have formed. It works more times than you would imagine with no extra clean-up of oils etc.

jack

-- jack -- ...measure once, curse twice!

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bold1

261 posts in 1307 days


#5 posted 05-28-2013 08:49 PM

The best penetrating oil I have ever found is the old Army Rifle Bore cleaner for corrosive primers that came in the green Pouch cans. If that doesn’t eat through I know of nothing that will. Be careful with it. The acid in it will eat the blueing off a rifle if not wiped off. It also lifts paint and will discolor some metal.

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gfadvm

14940 posts in 2149 days


#6 posted 05-29-2013 01:46 AM

Make ABSOLUTELY certain that you have the right bit/driver (most of those tools require metric). Then use an impact driver. If no impact driver is available, smack the bit with a ball peen hammer, and then remove it.

I learned all these tips at the Ridgid service center when I couldn’t get the screws out of my planer. The ball peen trick worked much better than I would have thought.

Then when you put the screws back in, DON”T use the impact driver.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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