silicone residue and glue joint

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Forum topic by Tommy Evans posted 05-27-2013 02:01 PM 1072 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Tommy Evans

137 posts in 1595 days

05-27-2013 02:01 PM

Topic tags/keywords: joining refurbishing question oak finishing

Good Morning to all..
I’ve been reading a lot on the evils of silicone and wood.
I have a piece of bent oak that is for the back of an old rocker. Here is the opposite side from the one I am trying to repair. This piece attaches to the seat.

I’ve had the rocker for over 15 years stored down in the basement. And it is time to fix it!

And this is what I am faced with…..

It seems a repair job was not done right and then the gap that resulted was filled with a siliconized white caulk. Or at least that is my best guess. The white stuff is strong but still flexible. It must have been a very good brand. I have 99% cleaned off and am now worried about gluing the piece back together. That picture above is BEFORE I started cleaning!

I will still use a wire brush to get the rest of the teeny tiny bits of caulk out. Or other methods I may think of.

But it is the residue I am worried about preventing a good glue bond, NOT particularly about a finish although the two may be affected the same way.

Researching silicone wax, I found a guitar site and a method of removing a finish from a Les Paul that had silicone in it.

“Use mineral spirits to ‘draw the silicone residue out of the wood’ and then scrub and wipe with ammonia and water with LOTS of clean rags to clean”
Repeat as necessary.

It sounds good, but what do I know?!
And that is my current game plan. Any suggestions or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

thanks, Tommy

4 replies so far

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2271 days

#1 posted 05-27-2013 02:16 PM

I can offer a few thoughts, Tommy.

#1: 3m makes a silicone solvent, sold in quarts. Not sure where to point you to find it, but it’s out there.

#2: Braces are critical to these old chairs and even at their best, because they are bent at such a tight angle, have cracks in them. I am not totally sure that, even if the break were not contaminated, you could get back the strength you need.

#3: Looks like yours may be a little different, but Rockler has replacements!



-- " his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View Tommy Evans's profile

Tommy Evans

137 posts in 1595 days

#2 posted 05-27-2013 02:50 PM

Thanks, Lee

#1 3M Prep Solvent. Googled that. It seems to the auto guys to be very hard to find. I worry about it just soaking in to wood. #2, #3 Yeah, mine is not a brace, but that whole piece is the outer back slat or how ever it is called.

I thought of drilling several small holes in both the bent piece and the seat and maybe using an epoxy. The epoxy may not stick to the contamination either but would “porcupine” into the two pieces?

The original joint does have a brass screw up through the bottom of the seat and into the bend. Might be better to replace the screw with a couple of dowels going all the way through. But the contaminated split of the bend is where a dowel or screw would be. Argh!!

View gfadvm's profile


14929 posts in 2111 days

#3 posted 05-28-2013 01:22 AM

I would continue your cleaning plan, then scrub with acetone and a brass brush, and then epoxy the break together. The shallow holes would be a reasonable idea as well to form some epoxy pegs (but I really think it will work without them).

Let us know how you fix it.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Tommy Evans's profile

Tommy Evans

137 posts in 1595 days

#4 posted 05-28-2013 11:44 PM

And the saga continues…

I found this item at the local Ace Hardware store and also bought ammonia too.

I scrubbed the mating surfaces with mineral spirits, then the Contractor’s Solvent and then with ammonia mixed with water. DON’T sniff the mixture to see if it’s strong enough! It is.

After doing this routine twice, the surfaces to be joined were no longer “slick” feeling. Before the ammonia, they still felt slippery. So, it’s time to glue. Or weld – as a new woodworker it’s still hard to adjust work methods so I went with the old reliable – JB Weld – I filled the little drilled holes, then buttered both faces and clamped.

The squeeze out was scraped off and actually, I “vee’d” it out a bit to …. hmmm, maybe fill it with something. The glue seam was NOT going to be invisible. The broken pieces had been really abused during the old original repair decades ago.
So, in the morning, I’ll see what my hack has wrought. LOL And start figuring out how to attach this back assembly back to the seat it broke from. You can see that in the first picture.


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