tracking problem

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Forum topic by kayakdude posted 05-26-2013 10:40 PM 1100 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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97 posts in 2948 days

05-26-2013 10:40 PM

hi all

it seem my band saw is not track right i can’t even cut off the back of a band saw box with out it looking like a wave and feeding the box through like a tractor trailer jack knifeing
i have a 14’’ reliant body and table 1 year old moter 2 hp jet fance delta wheels 6’’ lift kit so i use a 105 blade 3/16 10tpi timber wolf carter stabizer and cater spring it seem this band saw will no long track not ever 1/4 inch wood .. i’m thicking i need new tire but not sure can any one help , and if i do what kind shoud i get carter or allband saw brand or somthing else you reck mend i can use your help .


-- kayakdude

9 replies so far

View waho6o9's profile


8478 posts in 2749 days

#1 posted 05-26-2013 10:45 PM

View MrUnix's profile (online now)


7004 posts in 2371 days

#2 posted 05-26-2013 10:54 PM

The woodwhisperer links above are a good start.. you may also want to watch this excellent video from Alex Snodgrass at Carter on how to tune a band saw so it tracks straight every time. I followed Alex’s procedure and have zero drift on my Delta.


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View distrbd's profile


2252 posts in 2618 days

#3 posted 05-26-2013 10:55 PM

There are two possibilities in my limited experience ,specially if everything was fine before:
1)=most likely your blade is dull,very often changing to a new blade can eliminate a lot of bandsaw tracking issues,.
2)=if the blade is fine but tracking is off,try to increase the tension.

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

View blackcherry's profile


3338 posts in 3995 days

#4 posted 05-27-2013 01:24 AM

Sound like tire I had this same problem and a new set of urethane tires put me back on track big time…..good luck.

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 2862 days

#5 posted 05-27-2013 01:41 AM

Two problems occur to me: The Carter Stabilizer is great for cutting curves but NOT great for cutting straight lines. If your blade is dull of if you have cut a lot of tight curves with it, it will not cut straight lines very well.

A sharp blade dedicated to straight cuts with guides above and below the table, and sufficient blade tension are the best combination for straight cuts.

I rarely use the fence for long straight cuts. Instead I use a single point fence and follow a scribed line.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View kajunkraft's profile


159 posts in 2382 days

#6 posted 05-27-2013 01:46 AM

+1 w/gfadvm

I think that Alex and Marc have a couple of differences with their procedures; especially where the blade rides on the wheel. I follow Alex’s advise to line the gullet up with the center of the wheel. Seems to work for me.

View kayakdude's profile


97 posts in 2948 days

#7 posted 05-27-2013 03:27 PM

thank you guys for all the replays yes my blade is new got it on thursday so its brand new timberwolf . i just spent all morning taking my saw apart and checking everything , so i drove to my brothers and but the blade on his delta 14’’ and it worked like a charm , so it make me to beleve it the tires , now my question is what kind to get urethene or ruber and what brand and where i could buy them at woodcrafters

thank everone at lj


-- kayakdude

View waho6o9's profile


8478 posts in 2749 days

#8 posted 05-27-2013 04:00 PM

Ebay worked for me for the urethane tires. :)

View blackcherry's profile


3338 posts in 3995 days

#9 posted 05-27-2013 04:28 PM This place is way better than woodcraft at halve the price!

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