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Aligning a Delta TS (mitre slots to blade)

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Forum topic by jimig11 posted 05-24-2013 05:10 AM 4366 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jimig11

56 posts in 1742 days


05-24-2013 05:10 AM

Topic tags/keywords: table saw alignment delta delta 36-320c 36-320c delta help question tablesaw

Hi all,
So after 3 days and lots of cuts and scratches, I am giving up and asking for help.
I have an old delta TS model 36-320C. It’s a bastard of a thing with no manuals anywhere
and have been waiting 3 weeks for delta to get back to me about the safeties (blade guard,riving knife) and describing it is also painful, it’s not a cabinet,hybrid,contractor or bench saw. It is however a direct drive. My problem is aligning the slots to the blade. I understand the premise of loosening the table from the motor and whacking it gently into place with a mallet, however there are only really 2 accessible bolts holding the direct (crap) drive motor in place, I can see one more and feel 2 more (4 in total) but can only really access 2 of them.
Where am I going wrong? does anyone have experience with this model? It’s out 10 thousandth of an inch, but making puzzle cubes, that’s a huge variance. I have attached pics to help clarify what i am working with.
Thanks all in advance.


think these are possibly the bolts I need to loosen.


lmao! wee lil belt.


BONUS PIC! Just cause it’s sexy! (and so freaking cheap, home depot in the gta has clearance sale on freud industrial blades $30)


10 replies so far

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7789 posts in 3215 days


#1 posted 05-24-2013 10:26 AM

Your 36-320 looks to be a descendant of the 36-670, 36-600, Shopmaster TS300, etc., so some parts (like blade guards) from those saws might fit. I doubt Delta will get back to you….they’re now owned by Cheng Type Ltd, and seem to be in disarray.

The 36-600 was my first saw…I’d classify it as a compact saw….a step up from a benchop in construction, but not a full size contractor saw either. 150#, 38”w x 22”d. It was loud, a little small, and on the light side, but it was surprisingly strong and capable. Mine was aligned when I got it, so I can’t help there. Do those four bolts that hold the tilt mechanism offer any play for alignment? If not, if all else fails with getting the blade aligned to the miter slot, just adjust the fence parallel with the blade. If it needs a lot of adjustment, be sure your reset your miter gauge to square with the blade also. It’s not ideal, but it should help with rips.

Looks like a nice blade for $30. Lots of teeth (60?), so it may struggle with thicker rip cuts. A 24T TK like the Freud Diablo may be a nice compliment to your existing blade.

Good luck!

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View jimig11's profile

jimig11

56 posts in 1742 days


#2 posted 05-24-2013 04:20 PM

“Your 36-320 looks to be a descendant of the 36-670, 36-600, Shopmaster TS300, etc., so some parts (like blade guards) from those saws might fit. I doubt Delta will get back to you….they’re now owned by Cheng Type Ltd, and seem to be in disarray.

The 36-600 was my first saw…I’d classify it as a compact saw….a step up from a benchop in construction, but not a full size contractor saw either. 150#, 38”w x 22”d. It was loud, a little small, and on the light side, but it was surprisingly strong and capable. Mine was aligned when I got it, so I can’t help there. Do those four bolts that hold the tilt mechanism offer any play for alignment? If not, if all else fails with getting the blade aligned to the miter slot, just adjust the fence parallel with the blade. If it needs a lot of adjustment, be sure your reset your miter gauge to square with the blade also. It’s not ideal, but it should help with rips.

Looks like a nice blade for $30. Lots of teeth (60?), so it may struggle with thicker rip cuts. A 24T TK like the Freud Diablo may be a nice compliment to your existing blade.”

Problem isn’t with rips, already figured adjust fence to blade for that one. I am using a crosscut sled so my thinking is the mitre slots are my big concern. As for the blade, yes it’s a 60 tooth Freud Industrial combo blade. It’s a replacement from a 24T rip and 50 tooth cc Avanti blade, so big upgrade for me, stopped the “wobble” to. As for ripping, in softer woods like cedar and pine, it makes freaking glue ready rips. Very happy.
Good luck!

View John8059's profile

John8059

53 posts in 3256 days


#3 posted 03-04-2015 01:01 AM

Just experienced the same problem after a repair and I have a solution as well as the likely cause of the misalignment. This won’t be much help to Jimig11, but for the next guy….
My blade stopped but the motor continued to run. I pulled the motor to troubleshoot expecting to find a broken key or gear ( a broken belt was all it was ). I reinstalled the motor and blade and I could see the blade was way out of alignment with my fence. Everything was dialed in before so the blade could no longer be parallel to the miter slots either. First guess was the motor needed to be re-aligned, but there is no adjustment in that direction. After finding no good answer here, I read somewhere else about loosening and moving the trunnions and moving the entire motor/tilt mechanism in relation to the table top. That was it and it was really easy to get to the bolts from the top with the blade removed. In the process, I could see that the probable culprit was the blade guard and splitter support arm which is firmly attached to the motor support/tilt assembly and acts like a huge lever arm. When my gorilla friends turned my saw over to remove the motor, they probably banged the arm on the floor and knocked everything out of whack.
Hint – loosen the bolts slightly and use the blade guard and splitter support arm to move the assembly until the blade is aimed correctly. If you need to know what/where the trunnions are, look on the ereplacementparts.com exploded diagram.

-- Cuz

View Michael_e49's profile

Michael_e49

2 posts in 56 days


#4 posted 10-22-2017 08:23 PM

How have you made out with this saw? I have one now but can’t get the blade aligned to save my life!!

With the blade up all the way I can get a front to back variance of .003 by when I lower the blade it goes nuts and drops to .020. j need help and you are the only person with this saw I can find on the whole web

View AutomaticSlim's profile

AutomaticSlim

2 posts in 55 days


#5 posted 10-23-2017 07:22 PM

I am also i the Delta 36-600 club and am in the process of trying to align my blade. Cross cuts are now downright dangerous as the wood binds in the sled. Front to rear offset is almost 1/8”. I guess something got banged around during our last move. The only thing I can see that I can do for adjustment is loosen and then adjust the saw with the bolts that attach it to the table top. What a PITA – trying to make micro-adjustments while the table saw is upside down on the garage floor and then flipping it over to remeasure. Maybe it’s time to upgrade…

View scrubs's profile

scrubs

44 posts in 100 days


#6 posted 10-23-2017 07:58 PM

Can you put the saw up on sawhorses or something? That way you could loosen the bolts without having to move the saw.

Also when you’re doing this sorta thing, don’t loosen the bolts too much, if they’re holding it a bit you can tape it with a deadblow hammer and get much finer movements.

You just need to do the old align the blade with the miter slot thing using the same tooth with the best tiny combination square you have. :)

Best of luck!

-- It all seems like a good idea at some point...

View jimig11's profile

jimig11

56 posts in 1742 days


#7 posted 10-23-2017 08:12 PM

Hey guys,

I had no luck with it, tried everything I could find or think of but to no avail, ended up selling the saw on Kijiji and listed it “caveat emptor”. Sold it for CAD$200 and found a deal on a Rigid TS3650 for $300, still have it now and love it, removed the right extension and made a router table to fit between the rails. Best purchase I ever made. Funnily I only bought the Delta for $100 but it was a rust bucket so I did a major restoration to it. My advice, sell it and get something else.

Cheers!

James

View AutomaticSlim's profile

AutomaticSlim

2 posts in 55 days


#8 posted 10-24-2017 09:29 PM

Well, I solved the problem – but I won’t recommend it as the cure since it involves a big hammer and a “Don’t give a shirt anymore” attitude. Loosened two (the only two I could access without being Houdini) of the bolts holding the saw to the table top; replaced the blade with a large sanding disk plate so that I wouldn’t bend/ruin my blade; whacked the sanding disk into next week until it was aligned parallel to the miter slot. It’s cutting like a champ now – probably out of fear of knowing what happens if it decides to stray to far from home again. If it’s stupid and it works – it’s not stupid.

View Rick_M's profile

Rick_M

10642 posts in 2220 days


#9 posted 10-24-2017 09:37 PM

Benchtop saws are meant to toss in the back of a truck so you can rough cut 2×4’s on the jobsite, they are not meant for woodworking. They are no better than, and in some cases worse, than a circular saw upside down in a piece of plywood.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View Michael_e49's profile

Michael_e49

2 posts in 56 days


#10 posted 10-25-2017 11:32 AM

This isn’t exactly a bench top saw, the 36-320 has a cast iron top and case iron wings. its practically impossible to remove the top from the cabinet as the height adjustment rod won’t allow it to come free. I know the pain of anyone who has to work on this saw.

I believe the #1, overarching problem, besides all the obvious problems a saw like this has, is that the front and back trunnions are 4 inches apart, not at the literal front and back of the saw like most contractor saws.

I had some success adjusting the blade to a adequate .003” however my issue is when i lower the blade to make a safe cut the blade is out by .020- very bad. Does anyone have a fix for this? i’ve tried shimming one side of both trunnions but it didn’t seem to work.

Oh and getting all four bolts loosened can be done with a 13mm socket for the visible ones and a wrench for the others.

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