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Aligning a Delta TS (mitre slots to blade)

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Forum topic by jimig11 posted 05-24-2013 05:10 AM 1835 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jimig11

55 posts in 786 days


05-24-2013 05:10 AM

Topic tags/keywords: table saw alignment delta delta 36-320c 36-320c delta help question tablesaw

Hi all,
So after 3 days and lots of cuts and scratches, I am giving up and asking for help.
I have an old delta TS model 36-320C. It’s a bastard of a thing with no manuals anywhere
and have been waiting 3 weeks for delta to get back to me about the safeties (blade guard,riving knife) and describing it is also painful, it’s not a cabinet,hybrid,contractor or bench saw. It is however a direct drive. My problem is aligning the slots to the blade. I understand the premise of loosening the table from the motor and whacking it gently into place with a mallet, however there are only really 2 accessible bolts holding the direct (crap) drive motor in place, I can see one more and feel 2 more (4 in total) but can only really access 2 of them.
Where am I going wrong? does anyone have experience with this model? It’s out 10 thousandth of an inch, but making puzzle cubes, that’s a huge variance. I have attached pics to help clarify what i am working with.
Thanks all in advance.


think these are possibly the bolts I need to loosen.


lmao! wee lil belt.


BONUS PIC! Just cause it’s sexy! (and so freaking cheap, home depot in the gta has clearance sale on freud industrial blades $30)


3 replies so far

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

6114 posts in 2259 days


#1 posted 05-24-2013 10:26 AM

Your 36-320 looks to be a descendant of the 36-670, 36-600, Shopmaster TS300, etc., so some parts (like blade guards) from those saws might fit. I doubt Delta will get back to you….they’re now owned by Cheng Type Ltd, and seem to be in disarray.

The 36-600 was my first saw…I’d classify it as a compact saw….a step up from a benchop in construction, but not a full size contractor saw either. 150#, 38”w x 22”d. It was loud, a little small, and on the light side, but it was surprisingly strong and capable. Mine was aligned when I got it, so I can’t help there. Do those four bolts that hold the tilt mechanism offer any play for alignment? If not, if all else fails with getting the blade aligned to the miter slot, just adjust the fence parallel with the blade. If it needs a lot of adjustment, be sure your reset your miter gauge to square with the blade also. It’s not ideal, but it should help with rips.

Looks like a nice blade for $30. Lots of teeth (60?), so it may struggle with thicker rip cuts. A 24T TK like the Freud Diablo may be a nice compliment to your existing blade.

Good luck!

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View jimig11's profile

jimig11

55 posts in 786 days


#2 posted 05-24-2013 04:20 PM

“Your 36-320 looks to be a descendant of the 36-670, 36-600, Shopmaster TS300, etc., so some parts (like blade guards) from those saws might fit. I doubt Delta will get back to you….they’re now owned by Cheng Type Ltd, and seem to be in disarray.

The 36-600 was my first saw…I’d classify it as a compact saw….a step up from a benchop in construction, but not a full size contractor saw either. 150#, 38”w x 22”d. It was loud, a little small, and on the light side, but it was surprisingly strong and capable. Mine was aligned when I got it, so I can’t help there. Do those four bolts that hold the tilt mechanism offer any play for alignment? If not, if all else fails with getting the blade aligned to the miter slot, just adjust the fence parallel with the blade. If it needs a lot of adjustment, be sure your reset your miter gauge to square with the blade also. It’s not ideal, but it should help with rips.

Looks like a nice blade for $30. Lots of teeth (60?), so it may struggle with thicker rip cuts. A 24T TK like the Freud Diablo may be a nice compliment to your existing blade.”

Problem isn’t with rips, already figured adjust fence to blade for that one. I am using a crosscut sled so my thinking is the mitre slots are my big concern. As for the blade, yes it’s a 60 tooth Freud Industrial combo blade. It’s a replacement from a 24T rip and 50 tooth cc Avanti blade, so big upgrade for me, stopped the “wobble” to. As for ripping, in softer woods like cedar and pine, it makes freaking glue ready rips. Very happy.
Good luck!

View John8059's profile

John8059

53 posts in 2300 days


#3 posted 03-04-2015 01:01 AM

Just experienced the same problem after a repair and I have a solution as well as the likely cause of the misalignment. This won’t be much help to Jimig11, but for the next guy….
My blade stopped but the motor continued to run. I pulled the motor to troubleshoot expecting to find a broken key or gear ( a broken belt was all it was ). I reinstalled the motor and blade and I could see the blade was way out of alignment with my fence. Everything was dialed in before so the blade could no longer be parallel to the miter slots either. First guess was the motor needed to be re-aligned, but there is no adjustment in that direction. After finding no good answer here, I read somewhere else about loosening and moving the trunnions and moving the entire motor/tilt mechanism in relation to the table top. That was it and it was really easy to get to the bolts from the top with the blade removed. In the process, I could see that the probable culprit was the blade guard and splitter support arm which is firmly attached to the motor support/tilt assembly and acts like a huge lever arm. When my gorilla friends turned my saw over to remove the motor, they probably banged the arm on the floor and knocked everything out of whack.
Hint – loosen the bolts slightly and use the blade guard and splitter support arm to move the assembly until the blade is aimed correctly. If you need to know what/where the trunnions are, look on the ereplacementparts.com exploded diagram.

-- Cuz

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