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Hand saw for veneer cutting

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Forum topic by BertFlores58 posted 433 days ago 1777 views 1 time favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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BertFlores58

1644 posts in 1526 days


433 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question resource jig

After researching on the internet ways of making veneers, the best method is to use hand saw however there are several ripping saws.. one of them is the one called Bow Saw where the blade is in the center. What is the ideal Teeth per inch (TPI)? Is there anyone out here that can guide me on other methods of cutting veneers manually?. My plan of buying a band saw will be delayed till December because of other priorities. I need to cut a jackfruit lumber which is 12 inches in width (already at hand and seasoned dried) and cut it to veneers of 1/16 inch thick. I will use this for construction and restoration of decade old musical instruments like mandolin, violin, and banduria only if I would be successful to cut this beautiful jackfruit into 1/8 thick boards then sand later on.

I need help on this method… specially how to sharpen the saw with 15 tpi.
Thanks for the help.

-- Bert


14 replies so far

View Rick M.'s profile

Rick M.

3793 posts in 984 days


#1 posted 433 days ago

I’ve only watched videos of people cutting veneer with frame saws and it looks like hard, tedious, and probably frustrating work. I would go with a 5tpi panel saw, that way you have a more useful tool when you eventually get a band saw. Incidentally, I do have a bow saw, not a frame saw (blade in the middle), but I prefer a panel saw for ripping.

-- |Statistics show that 100% of people bitten by a snake were close to it.|

View BertFlores58's profile

BertFlores58

1644 posts in 1526 days


#2 posted 433 days ago

Thanks Ric,
I know how tedious it will be but it is alright because I need only few boards for the musical instruments. You gave me an idea using a portable circular saw but it has only limited cutting depth… Mine has only 2-3/4 inch and double it will cut only 6-1/2 not enough to penetrate a 12 in depth total.

-- Bert

View JustJoe's profile

JustJoe

1554 posts in 642 days


#3 posted 433 days ago

Sharpening a rip saw is easier than sharpening a crosscut saw. There are a few videos if you search for “sharpening a rip saw”. A decent written explanation is here:
http://www.vintagesaws.com/library/primer/sharp.html

If you use a bow-saw it will have to be one where the blade can be turned at an angle, otherwise once you’ve sawn a few inches the frame of the saw will get in the way.

If you use a regular handsaw with a rip-filed tooth you can do it, but as you know it will be slow, but doable.
If you have a thin-kerf blade on your tablesaw you can make a kerf on each side of the board and then use those two kerfs as a guide for your handsaw. That will mean less wood to cut by hand, and two grooves to help guide the saw will keep you from going astray. Then just clean up with a plane or planer or sander.

Good Luck – it sounds like some interesting restoration work.

-- This Ad Space For Sale! Your Ad Here! Reach a targeted audience! Affordable Rates, easy financing! Contact an ad represenative today at JustJoe's Advertising Consortium.

View Rick M.'s profile

Rick M.

3793 posts in 984 days


#4 posted 433 days ago

That’s what I do, run a kerf down both sides with my tablesaw then finish with 5tpi rip saw.

-- |Statistics show that 100% of people bitten by a snake were close to it.|

View John Ormsby's profile

John Ormsby

1276 posts in 2341 days


#5 posted 433 days ago

How about asking someone at meat butcher shop to borrow their bandsaw to cut your veneers? I am sure a bandsaw will be much quicker and more accurate.

-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca

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shipwright

4846 posts in 1402 days


#6 posted 433 days ago

Bert, if the wood is of real value, try to find someone nearby who has a bandsaw and knows how to resaw.
You will run the risk of wasting a lot of material in sawdust doing it by hand without experience not to mention the amount of work it will be. If there’s any way to get it to a bandsaw, that’s what I’d do.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

View BertFlores58's profile

BertFlores58

1644 posts in 1526 days


#7 posted 433 days ago

Thanks Paul. That’s what I am afraid of. The jackfruit is really a good stuff of 12 inch width that I personally watch the drying and seasoning of it. My original plan was to use it for a bass guitar but now that I have pending restoration work for musical instruments then I need to resaw it. The thickness of the plank is about 1-1/4 inch and about 5 ft in length and I knew that it will be wasted if really not done properly. I have already tried with ordinary saw but could not make a real straight line. Started with 3/8 and down to 1/4 after planing and sanding. Thanks for the warning.

-- Bert

View stefang's profile

stefang

12604 posts in 1938 days


#8 posted 433 days ago

Not impossible, but certainly not easy either Bert. It would be an interesting challenge just for fun.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View Tim's profile

Tim

1184 posts in 565 days


#9 posted 432 days ago

As far as I can tell the frame saw was the way this was done because the tension allows a thinner blade and kerf. But that also means much more skill is required in keeping the cut straight. Google for roubo frame saw. Shannon Rogers did a few posts on his renaissance woodworker blog about them and where to get parts to make one. I think it was him that mentioned the 4” blade depth made a big difference.

If you’re going to go this way, you’ll need to practice a lot on less valuable wood. Unless you find that idea enjoyable, I think bandsaw resawing is the way you’ll want to go.

View Rick M.'s profile

Rick M.

3793 posts in 984 days


#10 posted 432 days ago

As someone who has considered a frame saw, I found this an interesting read

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/arts-mysteries-blogs/the-emperors-new-frame-saw

-- |Statistics show that 100% of people bitten by a snake were close to it.|

View George Coles's profile

George Coles

93 posts in 1049 days


#11 posted 432 days ago

Hi Bert

Suggest that you take it to the re-saw mill in Taytay. They are not too bad at this sort of thing. Then put it through thickness-er to get it to what you want. To sharpen a saw with 15 tpi, I need REALLY good glasses and a very small three corner file. (-:

-- George Coles, Antipolo, Philippines

View BertFlores58's profile

BertFlores58

1644 posts in 1526 days


#12 posted 432 days ago

Thanks to all.
The whole day of saturday was consume fo experimenting. It was fun and really fun. I sharpened my crosscut and convert it ripsaw. It was previously sharpened using a grinder and it took me 2hours filing the nearly new set of teeth. Make the kerf bigger…. tested and found good. I will just post a blog on it later after taking pictures of what i cut 8 inches width.

George, yes i will in taytay. Thanks.

Btw using my tablet at the moment. Not very keen on touch screen keyboard.

-- Bert

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Sylvain

536 posts in 1103 days


#13 posted 430 days ago

Other expériences :

Bob Razaieski had a better experience than Adam Cherubini
http://logancabinetshoppe.com/blog/2013/01/great-expectations/
http://logancabinetshoppe.com/blog/2012/01/episode-41-re-sawing-hand-tool-style/

another one
http://www.renaissancewoodworker.com/why-you-need-a-resaw-frame-saw/

-- Sylvain, Brussels, Belgium, Europe - The more I learn, the more there is to learn

View Armand's profile

Armand

210 posts in 1515 days


#14 posted 427 days ago

Bert, i agree with George just take it to re-sawing shop in Taytay its very near your place and it won’t take them an hour to do the job. Don’t let even the slightest inaccuracies by handtools ruin your precius wood. Sayang naman kaibigan.

-- My Master is Mankind's Greatest Carpenter.

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